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Defective R/R out off the box?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Willmrx
  • Start date Start date
W

Willmrx

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Has anyone got a brand new Rick's Motorsports R/R that was defective right out of the box? I just replace the stator and the R/R and I am not getting it to charge. I tested the new R/R before I installed it and I could not get the diode test to work, I thought it may be my meter, but after I replace both the stator and R/R still no charge. The stator test correct and I by passed the old connector( R/R to wire harness) with no improvement. Could it be a bad brand new R/R.

Will
 
Willmrx said:
Has anyone got a brand new Rick's Motorsports R/R that was defective right out of the box? I just replace the stator and the R/R and I am not getting it to charge. I tested the new R/R before I installed it and I could not get the diode test to work, I thought it may be my meter, but after I replace both the stator and R/R still no charge. The stator test correct and I by passed the old connector( R/R to wire harness) with no improvement. Could it be a bad brand new R/R.

Will
Click to expand...
Sure it's possible, but...... did you install a ground wire from R/R to battery negative? pick up a diode at Radio Shack to test your meter. or check your old R/R to confirm your testing method.
 
Yes, I grounded the RR to the battery and the frame. For the old RR, I good not get any good numbers when I was testing it. Last year when I was testing my other GS650G RR that was bad ,I did buy some diodes at Radio shack to test the meter and it was ok. I also swapped out the battery with one from my other bike and still 12.8 volt and when I use the high beams it starts going down.

Will
 
Ricks has good Stators, their R/R's are not much different from the Suzuki R/R. You can do much better.
 
Hi Will,

Let's hope that Rick's will exchange your defective part.

For me, the passive tests on the r/r have never really been conclusive. They will definitely tell you if you have a bad part. But even passing all of the passive tests doesn't necessarily mean it's a good part. It's the active tests that really tell. For example, if I know my stator is good, and all of my connections are clean, and I have a good battery, but I'm still not charging, then it pretty much means my r/r is not working.

I have a spare 6-wire Shindengen unit (one of the Honda units that duaneage used to sell) . If you need it, PM me.


All the best to you and yours,

Cliff
 
having the same issue, with the same parts, been through the stator papers to the point up has become down, and black is now white. Post up if you figure this out
 
Willmrx said:
Yes, I grounded the RR to the battery and the frame. For the old RR, I good not get any good numbers when I was testing it. Last year when I was testing my other GS650G RR that was bad ,I did buy some diodes at Radio shack to test the meter and it was ok. I also swapped out the battery with one from my other bike and still 12.8 volt and when I use the high beams it starts going down.

Will
Click to expand...
Why don't you swap R/R's between your bikes to confirm that the Rick's is defective- that way you have a strong case to their complaint dept. They are easy to test for diode function, but like Basscliff said, it doesn't necessarily mean it will work well when you throw 400 cycle a/c at it. The Shindengen units have held up very well for lots of folks on this site and are very common on ebay.
 
Anything is possible. FH012 is a very good replacement. Since it is defictive Contact Ricks and see if you can exchange it
 
Just got off the phone with Rick's, We found the problem! It was the return wire coming from the left hand controls, it is now bypassed and is connected directly to the RR. BTW Rick's was very help full and patient with me!

Thanks again for all your guys help!!

Will
 
Last edited:
R/r

R/r

Willmrx said:
Has anyone got a brand new Rick's Motorsports R/R that was defective right out of the box? I just replace the stator and the R/R and I am not getting it to charge. I tested the new R/R before I installed it and I could not get the diode test to work, I thought it may be my meter, but after I replace both the stator and R/R still no charge. The stator test correct and I by passed the old connector( R/R to wire harness) with no improvement. Could it be a bad brand new R/R.

Will
Click to expand...

Change over to a CompuFire series type R/R I did, end of worries. Since you already have a new stator you are good to go.
 
Willmrx said:
Just got off the phone with Rick's, We found the problem! It was the return wire coming from the left hand controls, it is now bypassed and is connected directly to the RR. BTW Rick's was very help full and patient with me!

Thanks again for all your guys help!!

Will
Click to expand...

The bypass of the stator wire that goes to the light switch on the left bar
is a suggested change in the stator pages... Run all three stator wires direct to the regulator
 
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