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Delayed idle issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter mash35231
  • Start date Start date
M

mash35231

Guest
Hi everybody,

I own a 82 GS550LZ that has a idle issue. It starts fine...a little choke but after a couple minutes I don't have to use the choke....It will idle fine then after a 45 min...maybe 1 hour ride the bike doesn't want to idle...I'm not sure where to start looking. Have any of you heard of this issue before? It has spark.........
 
mash35231 said:
Hi everybody,

I own a 82 GS550LZ that has a idle issue. It starts fine...a little choke but after a couple minutes I don't have to use the choke....It will idle fine then after a 45 min...maybe 1 hour ride the bike doesn't want to idle...I'm not sure where to start looking. Have any of you heard of this issue before? It has spark.........
Click to expand...

Do you have any idea when carbs were cleaned last? Probably, your slow speed circuit is partially restricted and once warmed up can't deliver enough fuel mixture. BUT did you set your idle stop correctly ?- should be set after bike is nice and warmed up, so there's no influence from "choke" circuit.
 
A dying idle when hot generally indicates tight valves

A rising idle means air leaks
 
Hi,

Valves need to be adjusted. Carbs need to be properly clean. All carb adjustments (vacuum sync, individual idle mixture screw adjustments, main idle knob adjustment) need to be done while the engine is up to full operating temperature. Make sure there are no leaks in the air intake system.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Had the carbs cleaned at a shop in Xenia. The carbs haven't been sync'd. Steve, it wants to die and stop running. Tight valves never entered my mind....that's a great place to start.
 
If you are mentioning Xenia, it sounds like you are dangerously close to me. :eek:

When do you want to have some help with this? :-k

.
 
The valve stems get longer when they are hot. When the stems are too long, the valves can't close all the way. This makes them get hotter, and longer. Vicious circle. First it starts to not idle when hot. Next step is the valves burning up. Adjust them.
 
Hi Steve, Yea I live close to Xenia. I started dismantling the bike a couple days ago. D-Mac inspired me to improve the looks. It will be low budget compared to his but we all make due with what we got. I will be putting it back together after I get the frame and tins painted. I'll be in contact with you when I get ready to run again. I would never have thought of tight valves.
 
tkent02 said:
The valve stems get longer when they are hot. When the stems are too long, the valves can't close all the way. This makes them get hotter, and longer. Vicious circle. First it starts to not idle when hot. Next step is the valves burning up. Adjust them.
Click to expand...
But doesn't the aluminum that holds them (the head) expand more than the steel valve stem? :-k

I have often wondered about the actual valve clearance when the engine is at full operating temperature, but not quite badly enough to burn myself checking it. :D

.
 
Steve said:
But doesn't the aluminum that holds them (the head) expand more than the steel valve stem? :-k

I have often wondered about the actual valve clearance when the engine is at full operating temperature, but not quite badly enough to burn myself checking it. :D

.
Click to expand...
This has always been my thought in this lobe-over bucket system - I figure hot running clearances are more like .005 inch-just to ensure some time on seat.
 
Whatever it is, I am reasonably certain that back in the development days, somebody took the time to check all that stuff to find the best clearance/seat time specifications.

Then, when the engine cooled down, they meaured what was there and said "you need this much clearance".
icon_thumbsup.gif


.
 
Big T said:
A dying idle when hot generally indicates tight valves

A rising idle means air leaks
Click to expand...

I speak directly from experience

A few years back, my 78 started dying at stop signs/lights

Pulled the carbs, fiddled with the settings, etc, etc. Finally, decided I needed that baseline we refer to so often

3 tight valves later, my idle returned, nice and steady
 
If valve clearance needs adjusted, where are you guys getting the new shims from? The dealer or some other supplier?
 
Hi,

mash35231 said:
If valve clearance needs adjusted, where are you guys getting the new shims from? The dealer or some other supplier?
Click to expand...

If you have measured all your clearances and inventoried your shims, you can "guess-timate" what sizes you might need for your next valve adjustment. Z1Enterprises.com has the best prices on shims, around $6.60 each. (Wow, I remember just a few years ago they were less than $5.) Sometimes you can find them (used) in the back of some old bike shop and the owner will just let you trade them straight across or sell them cheap.

I've ordered a couple extra every time I did a valve check and now I have my own little collection of a couple of dozen. I won't have to order any for a while now.

I'm sure Mr. Steve, being a well-adjusted guy himself, will get your valves in spec. But you may want to order ahead for the next time so that it's a little more convenient for you.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Sorry Steve I haven't been on the computer in a couple days so I didn't see your post about the shims.
 
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