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Do I need a carb teardown?

  • Thread starter Thread starter StubbornDutchman
  • Start date Start date
S

StubbornDutchman

Guest
Got the new peacock sorted out. I know I'm getting fuel to my carbs. Bike still won't start. It does run if I spray fuel down the tunnel in the filter box towards the airbox and if I put fuel in the jugs and put the plugs back on it will start quickly. I already tore the carbs apart and rebuilt them with an o-ring kit from Robert Barr. Think I need to do it again or did I miss something? I don't think I set the floats correctly though.
 
Carbs can be a pain in the assss lol, set your floats , are all passages free and clear, it sounds like your close ,Brian
 
Verify the float heights first. If they're OK then get ready for another tear down.

How did you clean the carbs? Did you dip them? Sonic clean them? Poke every hole? Will it run on choke?

I'm assuming that, when you say it will start with gas in the jugs, you're saying that it will start but not keep running. Correct?
 
JTGS850GL said:
Verify the float heights first. If they're OK then get ready for another tear down.

How did you clean the carbs? Did you dip them? Sonic clean them? Poke every hole? Will it run on choke?

I'm assuming that, when you say it will start with gas in the jugs, you're saying that it will start but not keep running. Correct?
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That is correct.

I'll pull the carbs and check the float heights.


I blew out all of the passages with carb cleaner to make sure they were clear but didn't dip them. I do have dip if needed though. Sounds like that's my next job.
 
When you cleaned the carbs (and I'm sure you did ! ) did you clean out the the little hole in bottom of float bowl and the tube that sends extra fuel up into carb throat???? At cold start, bike needs a extra shot of fuel or it's no go!
 
Yeah soak them good , you will not want to this a 3 rd time , lol, Brian , getting close to riding season !!:D
 
StubbornDutchman said:
I blew out all of the passages with carb cleaner to make sure they were clear but didn't dip them. I do have dip if needed though. Sounds like that's my next job.
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Yes, you need to dip them

That's why someone made a carb cleaning tutorial
 
harley10 said:
Yeah soak them good , you will not want to this a 3 rd time , lol, Brian , getting close to riding season !!:D
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Will do. Yup and this is going to be my first riding season on the streets. Never had a streetbike before. Just hope the cages stay to themselves and the rubber keeps sticky.
 
Take the basket out of the dip and 2 bodies will fit inside by side..24 hrs in the sauce followed by lots of carb spray and air thru all the passages. Be sure to poke out ALL the holes in the needle jet ( emulsion tube ) and the pilot jets. Be sure to get the tiny hole at the tip of the pilots too.

I pluck a wire from the wooden handled wire brush for poking the holes. Set the idle knob about 2 turns in just after it touches the throttle linkage for the initial start up. Adjust idle once she fires off. And yes, youre gonna have to re bench sync them.
 
chuck hahn said:
Take the basket out of the dip and 2 bodies will fit inside by side..24 hrs in the sauce followed by lots of carb spray and air thru all the passages. Be sure to poke out ALL the holes in the needle jet ( emulsion tube ) and the pilot jets. Be sure to get the tiny hole at the tip of the pilots too.

I pluck a wire from the wooden handled wire brush for poking the holes. Set the idle knob about 2 turns in just after it touches the throttle linkage for the initial start up. Adjust idle once she fires off. And yes, youre gonna have to re bench sync them.
Click to expand...



What he said..
 
chuck hahn said:
24 hrs in the sauce followed by lots of carb spray and air thru all the passages. ...
Click to expand...
It amuses me when I read that someone has shot a LOT of carb spray trying to "clean" his carbs. I have seen some brag that they used FOUR CANS of spray to clean a set. :eek:

I don't skimp on the carb spray, but I can easily do three full sets of carbs, sometimes four sets, on one can of spray. :D
Just use it to flush, not do all the major cleaning. The "dip" will dissolve the crud, the spray just flushes it out, then the compressed air will make SURE the passage is clear.
icon_thumbsup.gif


.
 
Steve..carb spray is cheap and I ( personally ) like to flush the heck out of the passages to get the stuff loosened by the dip out as good as possible. Thus my use of the word "lots" as it pertained to my post.

Am I an over achiever when it comes to cleaning them....maybe. But I only have to do them once.
 
Carb cleaning and rebuilding is not just about flushing the carbs and jets. While that is the first important step, it is also important to ensure the floats actually float and that the float valves are in good shape and won't leak. Along with this you do have to set the float height of course. All of this is discussed in the excellent tutorials available on Cliff's amazing site.

In my mind, it's equally important to change out all the O-rings as air infiltration can be a real impediment to properly operating carbs. Trying to figure out why thoroughly cleaned carbs still don't run right often can be down to this. O-rings can and often do look fine but if examined under magnification or deformed by stretching may show cracks or splits that will let air through.

If you don't want to be chasing your tail over poorly running carbs you need to do a through job. There just is no other way.
 
spyug said:
Carb cleaning and rebuilding is not just about flushing the carbs and jets. While that is the first important step, it is also important to ensure the floats actually float and that the float valves are in good shape and won't leak. Along with this you do have to set the float height of course. All of this is discussed in the excellent tutorials available on Cliff's amazing site.

In my mind, it's equally important to change out all the O-rings as air infiltration can be a real impediment to properly operating carbs. Trying to figure out why thoroughly cleaned carbs still don't run right often can be down to this. O-rings can and often do look fine but if examined under magnification or deformed by stretching may show cracks or splits that will let air through.

If you don't want to be chasing your tail over poorly running carbs you need to do a through job. There just is no other way.
Click to expand...

What he said.....:D

.
 
I agree also on the intake manifold Orings AND the condition of them. They should NOT be cracking in the rubber ( like a weather checked tire looks ) and they should not be any signs of delamination from the flanges.
 
I agree also on the intake manifold Orings AND the condition of them
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Absolutely.

Thanks for point that out I had forgotten to mention that. Bad intake O-rings can have you really chasing your tail if you scrupulously cleaned the carbs umpteen times, replaced the O-rings a couple of times and the carbs still seem wonky. Been there too.
 
chuck hahn said:
Am I an over achiever when it comes to cleaning them....maybe. But I only have to do them once.
Click to expand...
Did my first set of GS carbs back in about April of 2005.

Did them again in May, 2005.

Joined GSR in June, finally found out how to do them PROPERLY.

Have not had to do a set twice since then, and I have done at least three dozen sets. :D

.
 
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