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Does it hurt to put a chain on up side down?

  • Thread starter Thread starter dcb
  • Start date Start date
D

dcb

Guest
I have a chain that has a frozen link. I am going to remove the chain and work the link out. I am considering putting the chain back on upside down to lossen up the links. Is that a bad idea?

Thanks,
 
Should'nt matter. If you have a master link it is best to put the clip on the master link facing rounded/closed side in direction of chain travel.

Greg
 
dcb said:
I have a chain that has a frozen link. I am going to remove the chain and work the link out. I am considering putting the chain back on upside down to lossen up the links. Is that a bad idea?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Yes, it's a bad idea. A frozen link is full of rust, crud and corrosion and will cause the chain to fail. Loosening up the link doesn't remove the damage already caused and doesn't restore the chain to normal strength and lubrication.

The chain should be replaced. At the very least for a temporary repair the frozen link should be removed and a master link inserted to replace it.
 
Boondocks said:
Yes, it's a bad idea. A frozen link is full of rust, crud and corrosion and will cause the chain to fail. Loosening up the link doesn't remove the damage already caused and doesn't restore the chain to normal strength and lubrication.

The chain should be replaced. At the very least for a temporary repair the frozen link should be removed and a master link inserted to replace it.
Click to expand...

Dude,
Soak the chain in some lube for awhile (day or two) and put it on, upside down if you prefer. You've got nothing to loose. Would be best to get all of the links free'd up and moving good. I don't have a bottomless wallet either... I just put a 1980 750 back on the road after sitting for 12 years. The chain came out spotless with a little TLC, lube, and a wire brush. Worst case you buy some sprockets and chain later when you know the bike is going to meet you expectations. That was the biggest thing I wanted to avoid... a money pit before I knew what I had.

Greg
 
But there is always a chance that it may fail, and what is your life worth. You gotta think about that. If nothing else it may mean peace of mind. Your call.

If it were me a new chain is worth my life no matter what the cost, after all there are more expensive parts to replace, and if a chain brakes it MAY get stuck in a place that locks up the rear tire and then...well....:)

Scud
 
Scud said:
But there is always a chance that it may fail, and what is your life worth. You gotta think about that. If nothing else it may mean peace of mind. Your call.

If it were me a new chain is worth my life no matter what the cost, after all there are more expensive parts to replace, and if a chain brakes it MAY get stuck in a place that locks up the rear tire and then...well....:)

Scud
Click to expand...
Or go through the crankcase.
 
Or shoot out the back at your riding buddy at mach 10. I feel for your riding buddy. 8-[
 
ghwrenchit said:
Dude,
Soak the chain in some lube for awhile (day or two) and put it on, upside down if you prefer. You've got nothing to loose. Would be best to get all of the links free'd up and moving good. I don't have a bottomless wallet either... I just put a 1980 750 back on the road after sitting for 12 years. The chain came out spotless with a little TLC, lube, and a wire brush. Worst case you buy some sprockets and chain later when you know the bike is going to meet you expectations. That was the biggest thing I wanted to avoid... a money pit before I knew what I had.

Greg
Click to expand...

This is sort of like running an engine without oil until it seizes. Add oil to it, free the seized parts, and clean the outside of the engine until it is spotless. Then you'll have a nice, shiny engine exterior that is internally used up and ready to fail at the least convenient moment.

When the chain breaks what have you got to lose, except your life, body parts, additional expensive repairs, and being stranded who-knows-where. Why risk spending $5 for a master link, much less under $100 for a new chain when you've got nothing to lose.:-s
 
Jethro said:
Or shoot out the back at your riding buddy at mach 10. I feel for your riding buddy. 8-[
Click to expand...
The most common thing that happens when a chain breaks is it wads up inside the front sprocket cover and knocking out part of the crankcase. Been there, done that years ago on my old T305.
 
Mine broke on the old X6 and wrapped around the rear sprocket and locked the rear wheel, luckily I wasn't going fast and on a dirt road. Also broke the neutral indicator switch. Chains suddenly became much more important to me after this. Ray
 
It could be a bent pin in that link, I'd replace the chain or at least break that link apart and install another master link.
 
Reusing a chain with a frozen link is pretty much just asking for failure. If you want to be cheap replace the chain with non-oring chain, it'll last you a season maybe two if you lube it regularly. Then when you get more cash, get yourself a chain and sprocket set.
 
Thank you all for your replies. I going to take the chain off and take a look at it to find out just how bad it is. The bike only has 12K miles on it and I am sure it sat at one time but indoors. My thought is the frozen link was on the front sprocket at the time it sat.

Thanks again,
David
 
dcb said:
Thank you all for your replies. I going to take the chain off and take a look at it to find out just how bad it is. The bike only has 12K miles on it and I am sure it sat at one time but indoors. My thought is the frozen link was on the front sprocket at the time it sat.

Thanks again,
David
Click to expand...

Mileage isn't the issue, nor how/when the link was stuck. If the chain had 200 miles on it and the link was frozen, the same warnings and advice would apply. Taking the chain off and looking at it will not tell you how bad it is. A chain with 12,000 miles and a frozen link is a hazard. Links don't freeze up unless they are in very bad condition, and it is likely that other links are also in bad shape. At least take the bad link out and replace it with a master link. You can get a new non O ring 630 chain for about $45.00.

Rationalizing the reuse of the chain as it is a risky business, and false economy.
 
I will take your advice and replace the link if not the whole chain. I just bought the bike and am having to spend money on other needed bike parts and tools. I will mention that the post I have gotten on this thread have made me reconsider where I am spending my money. I guess I will now look at chain prices and try to find a good vendor.

Thank you all for your concern,
David
 
There's nothing wrong with a non o-ring chain. Now - if you can shell out 100 bucks or so, then get a RK X-ring chain. Those are AWESOME! But you can also get a RK or RK-M (Malaysia) non o-ring for 30 or 35 bucks, and they last a long time too. I'm running a non-o-ring RK chain on my 750 right now, it's been on there for about 3000 miles and I've had to adjust it 2 times. Lots of life left on the sucker. Clean and lube it regularly, and a non-o-ring chain will last longer than you might think.

Anyhow, my main point is this.... replace the chain! 30-40 bucks will get you something nice and new, and most importantly.... peace of mind.
 
Billy Ricks said:
The most common thing that happens when a chain breaks is it wads up inside the front sprocket cover and knocking out part of the crankcase. Been there, done that years ago on my old T305.
Click to expand...
Spot on Billy. I use a case guard on the dirt bike to prevent just that scenario. If you think chains are expensive, you ain't seen nothin' yet.
 
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