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e-z carb installation

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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i found this method by blind luck and trial and error. i recently had the "opportunity" to do some minor head work ,which required the removal of the carbs.taking them out was easy(i think?it was only a MONTH ago!).when it came time to install them,i discovered that i'd lost the bolts that hold the front airbox to the frame! what i also noticed, with the bolts left out,you gained about 20-30mm more clearance between the head and airbox boots.it's still a tight fit, but the key is to lube boots and carb throttles with wd-40 or similar. the carbs are now ready-(OOPS don't forget to attach the throttle cable-i did that the first time i slid the carbs in this way.so i tried it a second time,this time with the cable attached and it worked beautifully) to be "slipped" straight through the boots,one hand pushing back on the airbox,the other pushing the carbs through. keep the carb throttles in line with the airbox and head boots,if there is enough lube the carbs will push straight through,and with any luck,fall right into the boots .*note*make sure you have your boot clamps pointing in the direction that you want them BEFORE installation.

*removal of the carbs is eased by removing the airbox bolts as well*
 
I have ruined a couple of boots by spraying them with wd 40--i thinkit causes themm-to deteriorate or swell--i was told i should have used siicone spray.????
 
I have ruined a couple of boots by spraying them with wd 40
Click to expand...

You're kidding me! I saw advise on this very site that suggests spraying WD-40 around the boots to check for air leaks! I bought WD-40 for that very reason! Dammit. :evil:
 
Jethro said:
I have ruined a couple of boots by spraying them with wd 40
Click to expand...

You're kidding me! I saw advise on this very site that suggests spraying WD-40 around the boots to check for air leaks! I bought WD-40 for that very reason! Dammit. :evil:
Click to expand...
I used to spray the boots often thinking i was doing them a favor. Maybe its loads of wd 40 that is not good and im not positive --but those rubber connections from the carbs to the head were swollen quite a bit.
 
I too have seen carb rubbers ruined by exposure to WD40 and now use a silicon grease.

Sorry Breton, but this technique is actually in the Suzuki manual for the GS1000 (and probably others), therefore you don't qualify for a "tip or trick" brownie point!! :wink:
 
arg, I used WD40 on my carb boots as well.

I knew I should have used acetylene instead...
 
Wd-40

Wd-40

About 30 years ago, I lost a bet with an old man (he was in his 40's at the time) over WD-40.

He bet me $20.00 that I Could Not find the word "Lubricant" on the WD-40 can. Having used the stuff all my young life, I brashly took up the bet.

Needless to say, the old man was right.

WD-40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT. It is a penetrant and a solvent and "W"ater "D"isplacement product. It was designed to be tuner cleaner for Radio's and Televisions back in the days when tuners were mechanical.

For my Second Amendment brothers (and sisters) it is OK to clean your Toys with WD-40, just be sure to Lubricate them afterwards.
 
This is from the WD40 web site (www.wd40.com)

Lubricate manifold heat control valves
Clean grime from engines
Keep brake levers clean
Displace moisture from spark plug wires
Keep tire jacks working smoothly
Use on swamp coolers to prevent burnout or seizing

MartyC :?
 
The quote cited from the WD-40 website is attributed to NASCAR Driver Ward Burton and is not a claim by the manufacturer.

I stand by my previous remarks and will provide a crisp $20.00 Bill to the first person that can find the word lubricant on the WD-40 can.

Takers?
 
The word "lubricant" is not there, as you well know, or you would not have offered to give away cash!

However the word "lubricates" is, (at least on the cans sold here in the UK.)

You are right in that WD40 was not designed to be a lubricant, but that does not mean that it cannot be employed as such. You would not describe water as a lubricant, but in some situations it is one. Nor would you describe gasoline as a coolant, but in many engines gas is used as a coolant, therefore it is ,de facto, a coolant, albeit not as its primary function. Oil is also a coolant in this way, not just in GSXR engines, but in all engines.

In the case of WD40 it is not as clear cut. WD40 is simply a light oil carried in a solvent. What you use it for is up to you, therefore what it is is also up to the user. If you use it as a penetrating oil, thats what it is. If you use it as a lubricant, then it is one. As it consists almost entirely of mineral oil once the solvent has evaporated, why on earth can it NOT be described as a lubricant?

Cycle Doctor (www.2wf.com) recommends WD40 as a lubricant for chains. I must admit I wouldn't very often use just WD to lube something, but it will lubricate some things which require only a light oil. Just don't leave it on rubber parts!
 
3 in 1 oil works really well

3 in 1 oil works really well

I used a bit of this on my latest carb install after a @#$!ing lot of cussin
and it did the trick and is cheap to boot!

Keltic
 
WD 40 (Water Dispersant #40) was originally developed to leave a light oily water dispersing coating on rockets. Hence the original name Rocket WD 40 or Rocket Water Dispersant 40th formula. The guys who invented it worked building and developing rockets of some sort which were stored in damp conditions. Possibly outside. I'm not sure of the rocket type. But this was the story on a WD 40 leaflet explaining the history.

It does make a good water dispersant, at least in storage conditions. It is useless as a semi-permanant lube. A light machine oil is what you want for cycle chains

It would be ideal for carb 'rubbers' as a temporary lube except for the fact that long term use rots the 'rubbers'. It will also do the same to wiring sheath and tires in much the same was any mineral oil based product will. engine oils, gasolene, diesel etc.

You want a silicon lube, (or lithium if you happen to have it) for carb rubbers and a proprietary spray (probably silicon based) for water dispersant/mild water retardant on wiring. But then again re-designing your wiring as water resistant is much better
 
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