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Fine tuning Pilot system

niclpnut

niclpnut

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Well, I've just about got the 1100 ES running just right.

Followed jetting procedure in the following order using the dynojet stg 3/kn pods/4-1:

Main jet- 138's installed pulls to redline, plugs good after chop at WOT.

Jet needle- Raised it one notch for better pull on midrange. Stumbled at a bit past 1/8th throtle or about 3k and would pop on decel.

Float hight- right about 21.5. increased fuel level to correct level.

Air Jet- replaced the stock 180 Mikuni with the 160 DJ from the kit to richen the mixture.

Mixture screws- Right now I'm right at 3.5 out.

Still running abit lean just past 1/8 throttle and has a little burble at 3kish rpm (cruising rpm). Popping is gone but occasional backfire after a 4k rev in neutral.

I'm thining of going with 47.5 pilot jets over the stock 45s.

How much of a difference are bleeder vs stock nonbleeder pilot jets?

Thanks,

Nic
 
I've read a few threads in the past with contradicting info on bleed or non-bleed type.
If you look at the carbs, you'll notice there's a air bleed hole drilled just above the threads of the pilot jet housing- it seems to me they wouldn't have bothered to drill it if they were adding non-bleed jets in there, which would isolate that air bleed.

My '80 GS1100L has a V&H SS exhaust, pods, and '83 cams in it. With 47.5 bleed-type pilots I don't have any stumbles or pops in that range.
 
I'm in the same boat. the stock 45's were a little lean. Was able to get some air bleed 50's and am too rich. Had to order some 47.5's to get it right.:p

The idle circuit provides an air/fuel mix for atomization. The air bleeds increase the emulsification which improves atomization in the combustion chaimber. It does slightly lean it out but not enough to make it outside the adjustment range of the mixture screws. You might need another 1/8 to 1/4 turn to compensate between emulsion type (air bleed) and non emulsion type (no air bleed).
 
roger that.

Both types seem to be available. High side is about $7 per jet, although there are some listed for just about $4 on fleabay.

My current 45's are non bleed type.

Thanks for the info.

Nic
 
niclpnut said:
Well, I've just about got the 1100 ES running just right.

Followed jetting procedure in the following order using the dynojet stg 3/kn pods/4-1:

Main jet- 138's installed pulls to redline, plugs good after chop at WOT.

Jet needle- Raised it one notch for better pull on midrange. Stumbled at a bit past 1/8th throtle or about 3k and would pop on decel.

Float hight- right about 21.5. increased fuel level to correct level.

Air Jet- replaced the stock 180 Mikuni with the 160 DJ from the kit to richen the mixture.

Mixture screws- Right now I'm right at 3.5 out.

Still running abit lean just past 1/8 throttle and has a little burble at 3kish rpm (cruising rpm). Popping is gone but occasional backfire after a 4k rev in neutral.

I'm thining of going with 47.5 pilot jets over the stock 45s.

How much of a difference are bleeder vs stock nonbleeder pilot jets?

Thanks,

Nic
Click to expand...

The 47.5's are a pretty standard setting for the 4:1 pod DJ kit
 
Still running lean on the pilot circuit (or 1/8 throttle) with 3.5-4 turns out, 47.5 pilot, float hight 21.4, and needle raised 1 notch.

Main symptom is a constant gurgling from exhaust at cruise or 1/8 throttle.

IMAG0194-1.jpg


IMAG0193-2.jpg


IMAG0191-4.jpg


Thanks,

Nic
 
Last edited:
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