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Float bowls with pin holes...

  • Thread starter Thread starter 81gs1100
  • Start date Start date
8

81gs1100

Guest
OK, this isn't a GS carb or anything, the carb is from an early 70's Honda ST90.

I am rebuilding a carb, and after cleaning I noticed that the bottom of the float bowl was aten away, looks like porosity from a bad weld, anyways. There is a small pin hole and a few other areas that have to be paper thin. All the area is slightly larger then a pencil eraser.

I was wondering if anyone might have an idea on something to fill the bottom of the bowl to seal these holes, as Honda does not off this part anymore. The owner just wants it running so his grandson can putt around the yard.
 
What about a drop of solder? I really dont know but that would seem a good choice. maybe someone else will chime in too.
 
Soilder sounds good, but unless you heat the bowl up enough do melt the soilder it won't stick very well, and heating the bowl that much may just be enough to make it fall apart in my hand.

I thought candle wax, lead, JB weld. Gum.. I would like to find a gas resistant epoxy that would pour soft and evenly and then harden. The surface isn't the cleanest, but I like one small dirtyer hole then 3 small holes and one big still dirty holes. Isn't not Dirty like grime or loose junk, just might have some thin coating on some of the craters.
 
Hi,

How about using a little bit of Kreem or POR-15 tank liner?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Never thought of that.. I have a kreem kit, the 3 part kit, but to open to use a thimble full might **** off the owner. :) But That will stay on my top 3 things to do list, after all thats what the stuff is made for.
 
Two part epoxy putty. The "plumbers" variety available in the large hardware stores will do the trick. You can also get "automotive" varieties in the auto supply stores. To my knowledge they are both the same products and both are impervious to gas. Failing these, I think JB Weld would also work.

The plumbers putty is great for pinholes as you can work it right in. I've used it on several tanks now and after 4 years or so they are still all fine and holding fuel.

I'm not sure if the 'alloy" used in carbs can be welded or soldered so I don't know how successful that would be but you could certainly try. I'd be interested in finding out if that works.

Good luck with it.

Cheers,
spyug
 
I just did this on my GS floats. Slow set (not 5 min) JB Weld. A thin coat allowed a bubble to form, I assume from the slight warming of the mix. A second tiny dot not enough heat generated fixed for good. I prepped with a wire wheel and sprayed with fast drying brake cleaner before application. Good luck.
 
Whatever you use make sure its gas safe. You braze it too or take it to a weld shop for them to patch it. If its just the bowl its not too critical how you fix the hole other then the fact its fixed.
 
I just did this on my GS floats. Slow set (not 5 min) JB Weld. A thin coat allowed a bubble to form, I assume from the slight warming of the mix. A second tiny dot not enough heat generated fixed for good. I prepped with a wire wheel and sprayed with fast drying brake cleaner before application. Good luck.

I must recant this statement. The JBweld pealed right off after two days in the fuel. I was riding and the rpm's jumped to 4000 because fuel was constantly pouring into the motor. Now to find new floats.
 
I must recant this statement. The JBweld pealed right off after two days in the fuel. I was riding and the rpm's jumped to 4000 because fuel was constantly pouring into the motor. Now to find new floats.


OOps... Well I will test it out in the morning when I get to work. I already laid some JB Weld in the bottom of the float. If it peels out, I might just work the jb weld till it comes through the holes and then do the other side as well. Or I just might try some epoxy that states is fuel resistant
 
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