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Fork Oil replacement on USD forks and swingarm bearings

  • Thread starter Thread starter ironsheik
  • Start date Start date
I

ironsheik

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Hey, can someone post a pic of an aluminum gs1100 swingarm bearing installed? I'm afraid I installed mine backwards or knocked them in too deeply. I put them in with the lettered face facing outwards and they are about 1/8" into the arm. I thought there would be a stop but I don't remember the old ones being this deep. The bushing that sits inside the bearings stick out from the bearing too. They're level with the face of the arm though...

Also, is there an easy way to replace the fork oil on USD gsxr (94 1100w) forks? I had a shop replace the springs for me but they left them dry! I could bring em back I guess but would like to do it myself if possible...

Thanks,
Josh
 
I have never had an USD apart, but there are manuals for free download at gixxer.com
 
The bearings should be flush with the face of the arm, are you sure you have the centre spacer in the arm as this is what stops the bearings being pushed in too far

If your forks are re-built & all thats missing is the oil you can simply undo the top nut & fill with the correct weight & amount of oil from there, be aware there is a little spring pressure on the nut

tone :)
 
Damn, really? I think I put them in backwards. Someone here said to have the faced side of the bearing (there's an open side and the side with the writing on it) facing out but I'm thinking it should go inwards and that is what hits the spacer, right? This sucks. I'm used to pounding in bearings until they stop. Now I need to redo them. Ugh!

As for the forks, I won't need a spring compressor?

J
 
If they are dry, you can do it without compressing the spring. Measure out the oil needed (go to gixxer.com and you might find it there). Loosen the top and get a funnel to pour it in. Let the oil fill up to the hole on the inside tube. The view might be blocked by the spring. Then pump the out fork up and down about ten times to get the air from in between.

However, I would take the spring out. You do not really need a spring compressor. I have used rachet ties down that had no hooks.
1. You loop through the spring near the top on one side and then down the outside of the fork.
2. Feed it trough the axle hole on the bottom and then loop it near the top again on the otherside. and back through the fork hole.
3. Feed the tie through the rachet and slow work it.

The tie down will move so be slow and adjust as you go so the spring goes down fairly even. If not the spring will compress more on one side then the other. Once the down far enough you should see the nut on the damper rod. Loosen that from the top. And then carefully, release the spring. On a side note: be Careful and do not use this for the rear shocks.

But basically, you fill it with the oil up to the inside hole and pump it. Then fill it agian then pump ten times again. Then you have to pump the damper rod about five times. You really don't and special tool. I just use a 'colaspible' magnet pick up tool to get at it and then pump it. Fill with more the rest and then let it sit over night. To install the spring reverse the way you took them out.

I would advise you get the section of the manual if you can and take your time. Do not be in a rush. I have done it this way several times w/o any problems.

Saying all this is the forks were just rebuilt and put together w/o oil. Bring it back and ask why.
 
I always put bearings in with the numbers facing out to make it easy to check them next time, i'm not aware of a differance in the ends of the bearings that matters ;)

you wont need any sort of spring compressor for the forks, but to make it easier on yourself back off the preload before undoing the top nut, if they are out of the bike the bottom may turn so grip the leg in a vice & put the spindle through the bottom to prevent this, once the top nut is cracked off you can undo easlly, the same applies to doing them back up, depending on the exact model of fork there can be up to half an inch of spring you will need to compress untill the thread catches but its not a problem even for a skinny bloke like myself :D
 
tone said:
I always put bearings in with the numbers facing out to make it easy to check them next time, i'm not aware of a differance in the ends of the bearings that matters ;)
Click to expand...

I appreciate the tips. The swinger bearings have a rounded lip/face on one side and they are not faced on the other side so there is definitely a right and wrong side. As of now they are sunk in the swingarm and the bushings stick out of the bearings almost a 1/4". Do you think I could knock them out a bit or would they need replacement? I'm so close to getting this thing on the road again. I'm a little frustrated that it was so easy to mess this up. You'd think there would be a stop inside the arm...
 
ironsheik said:
I appreciate the tips. The swinger bearings have a rounded lip/face on one side and they are not faced on the other side so there is definitely a right and wrong side. As of now they are sunk in the swingarm and the bushings stick out of the bearings almost a 1/4". Do you think I could knock them out a bit or would they need replacement? I'm so close to getting this thing on the road again. I'm a little frustrated that it was so easy to mess this up. You'd think there would be a stop inside the arm...
Click to expand...

I understand that there is a differance in the ends of the bearing but imo its not something you should worry about, you will be lucky to knock them out without damage but its worth a try, if i had to do this i'd put the centre bush in to hopefully try & stop the bearing collapsing

tone :)
 
tone said:
I understand that there is a differance in the ends of the bearing but imo its not something you should worry about, you will be lucky to knock them out without damage but its worth a try, if i had to do this i'd put the centre bush in to hopefully try & stop the bearing collapsing

tone :)
Click to expand...

Sorry, I should have clarified that the center bushing is indeed installed. That's what I pushed the bearings in further. I thought either a stop or the bushing would dictate the position... I'll probably just get new bearings and do it again. Thanks a lot!
 
So does anyone have a pic of a properly installed swingarm bearing in an aluminum gs1100 swingarm? I still don't know if I put them right and will probably have to pull them and reinstall $35 worth of new bearings. Ugh. I've searched and searched but can't find any specific info. Thanks

Josh
 
ironsheik said:
So does anyone have a pic of a properly installed swingarm bearing in an aluminum gs1100 swingarm? I still don't know if I put them right and will probably have to pull them and reinstall $35 worth of new bearings. Ugh. I've searched and searched but can't find any specific info. Thanks

Josh
Click to expand...
Go to BassCliff's site (http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/) and load the Service Manual for the 80-83 GS1100. Go to page 10-58 and start digging. You will notice a Caution box on page 10-62 that states "When installing a set of bearings, punch marked side of each bearing faces to the outside."
 
Aha! I have a crappy manual that says take it to the dealer for this. I didn't know Basscliff had this manual up. Thanks!!
 
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