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Fork Seal Q & A 83 GS1100E

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Will be replacing my fork seals tonight and tomorrow. Have some questions.

1. Fork Oil Viscosity recommendations. My shop gave me 10 but my book which only is for 80 81 says 15. What does the 83 take or need in its old age?
2. are the procedures outlined for 80 81 applicable to the 83?
3. Spring free length measurement for 83.
4. Fork oil depth and amount in ozs for 83.
5. Any tips or tricks to make this easier or better.
5. Are the o-rings for the air collars going to make me cry? :oops:

On another note I replaced my swing arm because the previos owner had let the chain eat through the pivot and seize the bearing. This got rid of alot of my previous pull to the right. Could leaking forks that wont hold air and probably have unequal and or incorrect amounts of old fork oil cause the rest of this pull?

Thanks,
 
I've had an empty fork for several months now and I don't really feel a pull. What I do have trouble with is the bike wanting to high side me when I hammer the front brake. The forks compress really quickly when turning to the side with the break on and when they hit bottom they twist the rest of the way.

Steve
 
Mike,
1983 GS1100E fork specs include #15 oil, 17.4" spring limit and 7.7" height or 8.31oz capacity. I prefer #20 and about 6" height for a slightly firmer and more progressive rate.
Removing the damper rod bolt can be a pain without air tools or the proper damper rod holder tool. Here's what I do. First I loosen the cap bolt slightly. Then I remove the complete fork and clamp it to my workbench vise by the brake mounting lugs. Then fit an allen socket with rachet wrench to the damper rod bolt. Then using a big hammer I smack the wrench to shock the bolt loose. If you turn the bolt slowly the damper rod will rotate along with it and it'll never come loose. Be sure to leave the spring and cap bolt on while doing this because the spring pressure is helping to hold the damper rod in place. If this doesn't work you may have to take the forks to the dealer to get those bolts loose.
Good luck,
Axel
 
The procedures are similar.

You can hold the top of the damper rod with a 19mm allen wrench, lacking on of those, you can take a 3/4" nut, put it halfway into a socket then give it a wrap of electrical tape to hold it in place, you'll also need a few extensions to reach into the tube, after removing the spring.

A piece of pvc pipe that fits over the tube makes a good seal driver, put the old seal between the pipe and the new seal to protect it.

The air collars will be very tight, give them a shot of WD-40 to loosen the o-rings.

bill
 
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