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front caliper

  • Thread starter Thread starter pureinstinct
  • Start date Start date
P

pureinstinct

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Working on my front brakes decided to d a complete over hall. Only problem is I cant unscrew the two screws attached to the forks. Ive tried torching it, to losen the nut. But no luck to my efforts. I dont onow if I should leave the flame on for longer than a minute.
If someone can give me pointers in this matter. Ive tried spraying. It with pb blaster. And nothing.
Suzuki gs850glz 1982
 
Sounds like PO torqued them down to hard, maybe?

You're on the right track, it will just take a lot of patience. Try banging the bolts with a hammer. The shock introduced will sometimes help break the threads loose a bit. Try tightening the bolt just a little too. Wiggle it back and forth, back and forth. Add heat. Add oil. Bang on it some more. Rotate through all of these as many times as it takes and it will eventually come loose.
 
as stated above, but dont worry too much if the bolt does shear. once the caliper is off removing the broken bolt will be a relatively simple job and new mounting bolts are easy to source, most hardware stores will have them
 
you can heat it more than 1 min, so long as you are directly on the bolt. I've had to get bolts nearly cherry red before to get them out. I wouldn't be too keen on reusing it if you heat it up that much, it'll lose its temper and be less hard than may be needed. Couple good whacks with a drift punch and a ball peen hammer always works good too. be careful the order in which you apply heat and oil, may wind up with a fire.
 
Let it cool down then boil the jug ,get the spanner fitted on the bolt and pour the boiling water over the alloy part.The alloy will absorb and conduct the energy from the water much quicker than the steel bolt and grow enough to get a bit of clearance and a good whack on the spanner with a block of hardwood should get it moving,just work quickly.Much prefer the boiling water trick vs hotairgun or flame as much less risk of damage or distortion and is the best way of installing bearing races in wheels engine cases etc
 
I have used a rattle gun in the past...that is, a pneumatic impact hammer with a 6 point impact socket. It's the equivalent of what Eil suggested, but a little more efficient, as it applies force both directions very quickly.

It could be a PO has loctited them in as well...heat SHOULD work, but not always.

(thanks to the ghost in the machine for bringing the thread to my attention)
 
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