gasket set for gs1100, question

[randaroo]

I asked for a gasket set for my gs1100e 1982; what arrived is an Athena gasket set for gs1100 ex/ed etc, 80-85
The valve cover gasket is four holes different, short the two at either end of the timing chain gallery.
Will this gasket set work on my bike, assuming i only have to change out the valve cover gasket?

 

[Guest]

What part number is it?
https://www.partsnmore.com/motorcycle-gasket_sets.php?make=suzuki&category=gasket_set

 

[rapidray]

Everything else will work. You need to get an 82/83 valve cover gasket as they sent you the 80/81 gasket. Ray.

 

[Nessism]

Athena gaskets are decent however I recommend you check the head nut torque after every other heat cycle until you don't seen any more torque fall off. Better safe than sorry.

 

[doctorgonzo]

Athena gaskets are decent however I recommend you check the head nut torque after every other heat cycle until you don't seen any more torque fall off. Better safe than sorry.

Next oil change (which I'm going to do at about 800 miles total on rebuild, already did one at 100 miles), I'm going to check mine again since a couple were very loose at 100 miles.

 

[randaroo]

you guys do rock...

you guys do rock...

You guys rock.
I was slabbing home from the Motorcycle show on Friday and dropped by Modern Motorcycles on Commercial drive in Vancouver. I?d met son-of-owner at the show so found the old guy and?
It was almost closing but they dug through the boxes way in the back and found the gasket I needed. Also found a set of bars I wanted at less than half what the show price was.
Hung there for a long while and got the talking to of my like. Learned a heck of a lot about the motor tear down and what to do and what not to do.
Several things. Don?t think about rings if under 100,000 kms, its more likely the valve stem seals (intake), if you?re seeing smoke. Don?t put a pipe on it unless the carburation/jetting is matched/balanced. Replace the front brake lines, best performance mod, or your going for a trip into the toolies or plowing into the back of that delivery truck. Don?t worry about the rear line as the bike is over braked anyways.
Since my reason for pulling the barrels is a significant leak at the base, try to keep the rings in phase, practically impossible but try anyway. Hone the cylinders and give it a few hundred kms to seat again.
Leak test the head when off, since I had thought a leaky exhaust valve would need lapping, the snap-crackle-popping on deceleration is more likely wooden O ring seal on intake boots sucking air, leaning out one cylinder. Lapping valves is easy so I?l do it at that time anyway. (lightly)
Biggest thing?head re-torque and re- torque again, 500, 1000, 5000 just to be sure. Most people bought these bikes and drove them off the lot or after a rebuild and never went back, that?s where bigger problems come from. Just #&^# do it!
After about an hour I realized the store should have been closed and I was late for something else on the list. The best hour I?d spent in a long time, my head was spinning with a dozen other things that I may remember when I get dug in.
Oh ya he said the gasket set is Ok except the valve cover.
So everything you?s guys said he reiterated and then off to politics, world motorcycle economy, stayed away from religion but covered the sidewalk for sure. Next time I?m in town I will get in there with a list and a fresh Venti coffee.
Thanks y?all. Roo

 

[randaroo]

my mistake, how bad can this be?

my mistake, how bad can this be?

Last night i flipped the engine to worry-out the exhaust bolts to see that the seep/leak isnt at the base gasket but at the case joint/join.
How big of a trouble am I in now, to split the bottom and re-seal?
Is thier a recomended sealant?
Is thier a retro way to seal the case leak?(not splitting them but gooping it, peening it, etc.)

At least with no base gasket leak i wouldn't have to remove the head etc.

 

[Guest]

Threebond 1194

 

[rapidray]

NO! Threebond 1207B! It is the BLACK stuff & it is what the FACTORY puts the cases together with. It even calls for it in the SUZUKI shop manual. Ray.

 

[Nessism]

1194 is the latest and greatest Three Bond formula suitable for engine crankcase halves. Ray is right that the service manual calls for 1207B though so I’m sure either is fine. BTW, I've never seen black sealant on the crankcase, only gray.

http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/1200list.html

http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/productdetails/1100/1194.html

 

[Guest]

NO! Threebond 1207B! It is the BLACK stuff & it is what the FACTORY puts the cases together with. It even calls for it in the SUZUKI shop manual. Ray.

Shoot Ray
Wanna buy a tube?

 

[randaroo]

Excellent
so is it a big deal to split the case?
Any reason that I can't just leave the internals, head etc in place, remove the upper bolts(under the starter and top of tranny), flip it over, pull the stater etc to access any other bolts and split it?
Is this just wishful thinking? A heck of a lot for a leak.

 

[Guest]

You don't have to take off the top end to split the bottom case.

 

[randaroo]

You don't have to take off the top end to split the bottom case.

so i take it that after removing the left side stuff and the right side stuff, I should be able to split the case.
Will it come clean or is thier something to watch out for? ( things that go "sproing" and you spend the next few hours on your hands an knees searching for "what the heck was that?")

 

[Guest]

There is springs in the paws where the shifter shaft comes out under the clutch basket.
There are covers for the transmission and oil port under the clutch basket. Use a good impact and extension on these screws.
Double check all the case bolts. Seems like you always miss one.
Use a deadblow hammer to seperate cases.

 

[waterman]

Not sure how the gear indicator is on the 1100, but on the 650 there is a small pin and spring that can disappear right before your eyes. Likewise my 650 has a pin to drive the oil pump, another small part to keep track off.

If you have never split a case, I recommend drawing picture of bolt placement and measuring bolts as removed to ensure they go back into correct holes. A piece of cardboard with holes punched is great to keep track as well. Just don't be in a hurry and you should be alright.

 

[randaroo]

getting ready to split the case

getting ready to split the case

just waiting for the threebond, next week.
started to remove the left and riight side stuff
question; do i have to remove the generater rotor to split the case? unlike the clutch side i didn't think there is anything behind the generater rotor that coud be a problem. (the hidden nut is between the shift indicater and the output shaft, there is retainer plates behind the clutch so it does have to come out.)
scratching my head, any wisdome on this?

 

[Guest]

You don't have to remove the rotor.

 

[randaroo]

thats wrench not wretch!

thats wrench not wretch!

Thank you
its great to have a wrench to ask these type of questions of.

I'll get on your case again when the next bump in the road apears.
Thanks again.

 

[Guest]

Thank you
its great to have a wrench to ask these type of questions of.

I'll get on your case again when the next bump in the road apears.
Thanks again.

I answer to both!