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Ghosts in my blinkers

  • Thread starter Thread starter cliffnote
  • Start date Start date
It appears that I was right. With the wires to the reed switch disconnected, the turn signals still work manually and cancel with the manual canceling down switch. With the bad reed switch in the circuit my left turn signal screwed up and then both after a while. They would work intermittently at times. I suspect the reed switch loses it's tension and partially closes enough to confuse the turn signal module into constantly and erratically canceling. As soon as I changed speedometers, the turn signals started working. There is a magnet in the speedometer that spins near two plates that are connected to the reed switch. The circular magnet has regularly spaced cut outs in it so that it only affects the switch when the high spots span the plates as it rotates with the speedometer. Pull the Black/red and blue/red wire in the headlight housing, and if the reed switch is the problem, you will have working manual canceling turn signals.:D
 
Oldvet66, a reed switch is magnetically operated. it has no normally open or closed position. when you rotate the speedometer cable the contacts close, open, close, open ect. the reed switch will either be open or closed, depending on where the speedometer input 'shaft' has stopped and will stay that way until the shaft is rotated further.

a reed switch is not a normally open or closed switch who's contacts are mechanically operated.
 
Bottom line, the turn signals work normally without the reed switch. I don't pretend to know how their failure affects the circuit, but I know it does. They are rated for about a million cycles. I haven't ridden the bike for any time with the switch out of the circuit, but I suspect that it is part of a relay and timing circuit in the control module. Without the reed switch in the circuit I also suspect it will continue to work until manually canceled. But of coarse, I could be wrong, only a long term test will prove it one way or the other. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_switch
 
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Oldvet66, I was 'composting' my response during your last post and didn't see the outcome of your test until after you had completed it..

I don't claim to know all about the way the system works either. the only thing that makes sense is something on the TSCU board doesn't like the reed switch in circuit as you suspect. quite possibly a leaky cap or some other device on board. either way a board member has already worked up a replacement TSCU based on a MPS430. hopefully some time in the near future replacement units will be assembled and ready for those who need them.
 
Way cool. It is a simple setup in the speedometer. It looks like they may have used a high content silver solder to solder the reed switch to the plates but to tell you the truth, even though mine works, I think I would be happier with it out of the circuit and working manually. I dissected my old speedometer. I hope the new units don't rely on a distance counter. The blinkers blink roughly ten times before self cancel, so a timer circuit of some type could work just as well.
 
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Process of Elimination

Process of Elimination

I have checked grounds, swapped bulbs, cleaned the switch and even removed the wires to the speed sensor. None of these actions fixed the problem of intermittent left turn signal. I figure it shouldn't be the flasher since it seems the blinkers wouldn't work on the right if that were the cause. In my estimation, this leaves the expensive TSCU. I welcome any other possible remedies or a good deal on a TSCU if someone has one.
 
spend the $2.00 on a heavy duty automotive flasher and try it, then if that dont work look at something else.
 
whiterabbitt said:
spend the $2.00 on a heavy duty automotive flasher and try it, then if that dont work look at something else.
Click to expand...



That fixed my problem . I could not get the right turn signal to work . Being an electrician I tried to over-analyze the problem . I borrowed the flasher out of my old truck and it works great. Only thing I have to figure out is why the factory flasher is 3 prong but the 2 prong one works perfect. I seem to remember that the extra terminal on a 3 prong is ground but I'm not positive thats the case.
 
check down at the auto parts store, they may have one that is a match to your old one. It might cost a bit more but, how much is your peace of mind worth?
 
I replaced the flasher and still have the problem with the left signal not working. Looks like it must be the TSCU.:(
 
cliffnote said:
I replaced the flasher and still have the problem with the left signal not working. Looks like it must be the TSCU.:(
Click to expand...

You and me both, I took my TSC unit out and cleaned the connector contacts, the bike's connector contacts, and it still hangs up sometimes when I hit the left turn signal. I have two other TSC units that work and
never hesistate when switched left, they just don't shut off.
Looks like it must be the TSCU. :(
 
Cliff, Steve, I have a gentleman who already has worked up a 'replacement' unit for the factory TSCU. when He get's time to get me the information on it, I'll have a few boards etched up and make a few of them. I will be a little easier to make them as Steve (sedelen) has so kindly sent me a boat load of dead units to borrow the leads from.

I don't know how long that might take unfortunately.
 
I would be very interested in picking up one of the new boards when complete.:clap:
 
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