• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

going to attempt valves too!a couple of questions please...

  • Thread starter Thread starter ad777
  • Start date Start date
A

ad777

Guest
hi all again, seems like valve check and ajustment first port of call so going to get myself organised to have a go next week. my bike is a uk 1980 gsx 750 et, first 16 valve model. have never attemted this , so my questions are..what tools will i need?is it likely that the gasket will need replaced? and will need a guide to follow, have been to bikecliffs site, but not sure which us model has the same engine as mine.
was inspired by last post! thanks in advance.
 
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/16valve_adjustment.pdf

This would be the equivalent engine guide.
A couple of extra things.
Before you take the cover off make sure you clean everything above it real real good so as not to contaminate your work.

Unknown if you will need a new gasket until you can see condition of old one.
Apply some lube on gasket before reassembly and next time it should come off easy.

As cheap as the seals are for tach shaft you might as well replace while you have the cover off.
Apply some lube to the tach shaft seal as well.

I have answered posts here where people have trouble getting that last bolt out.
If this happens to you tighten the two on either side of the stuck one enough to take a bit of pressure off it.
Or just break loose all of them before taking the pressure off.

Two sets of feeler gauges makes adjustment a bit easier.
The valves are adjusted two per cam lobe with a y shaped pressure point.
They tend to rock a bit.
It is not a must to have two sets of feeler gauges but will make it a bit easier.

It was suggested to me that the half moons could be reused.
A dab of RTV on the curve of them and then to tighten the cover without the gasket and let the RTV set up.
The next day take cover off, trim any excess RTV, Apply gasket, set cover back on and tighten to spec.

I did not have a dowel as in the tutorial but did have a screw with the correct size fitting.
I trimmed and drilled a old tooth brush in place of a dowel.

Double check all your work before you batten it back together.

The 16 valve motors are easy to work on when it comes to adjustment of valves.
If you run into troubles just let us know.
 
Your a star �� thank you. Will get on it midweek next week,will keep you posted. Thanks again!
 
One more thing.
If you have a camera I would really like to see a few pictures of your cam lobes.
The 16 valve 750 motors have a oiling issue and I am just curious of any damages/grooving on the lobes and correspondence with cylinder and intake or exhaust.
No big deal but I am curious.
 
Not a problem,will take photos of lobes,and post up,am hoping there wont be too much damage showing!��
 
WP_20150402_001.jpg don't know if this will open,have tried to upload pic from phone of cam lobes,if it doesn't work,mine very similar to the pic in the how to do valves thread,my exhaust valves definitely more worn than the intakes,there a discoloured slightly raised bit on all of them.if my pic doesn't open,just refer to other link as almost identical,coincidence,or common problem?!
 
Excellent timing, I have the exact same bike (called the GS 750ET in the states that year), and when I opened it up to check the valve clearances there was some pretty visible wear on the exhaust cam lobes. My question is, how much is too much? Are these toast, or should I save the expense and run them? What's the remedy to the oiling issue, if there is one?

http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag130/mikesdapperedpics/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsm0q7uhsc.jpg
http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag130/mikesdapperedpics/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsoina5dpy.jpg
 
I have the same bike with 59,000 miles on it, everything looks fine. Just make sure you (this is gonna open a can worms as usual) a good quality oil. Syn or Dino of at least a 10w-40 grade. I use a syn 10w-40 in it for years. No problems. I change it every 5,000 miles and new filter.

You'll find when checking your valves, not all will need to be adjusted. Once these engines get season especially on the valve adjust, they only need to be check every so often, I do mine at 6,000 miles. Think the last time I did mine it only 4-5 needed some adjustment the rest were fine.
 
Last edited:
Used a pretty basic 15/40 diesel car oil...seems to be ok! Am pretty sure got all the valve settings right,there is a tappity noise from top end,double checked settings ,is it quite normal to get a tappity noise in these engines? Am maybe being over sensitive!
 
Thanks for the pictures.

Typical for a tappity noise?
I do not know the answer to that.
Mine does.
And a bit more noticeable after everything was adjusted within spec.
 
Same with mine,hadn't noticed it before,but seemed to come from left hand side when done...having said that just taken off a dodgy speedo cable and noise now not there! Could have sworn it was coming from the engine! Time will tell....
 
ad777 said:
Used a pretty basic 15/40 diesel car oil...seems to be ok! Am pretty sure got all the valve settings right,there is a tappity noise from top end,double checked settings ,is it quite normal to get a tappity noise in these engines? Am maybe being over sensitive!
Click to expand...

Yup pretty normal. I always have one or two that have that tippy tap now and then. Nature of the beast I suppose.
 
Thanks for that too�� still there but doesn't sound too dramatic!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top