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gs cold pipes

  • Thread starter Thread starter svrider
  • Start date Start date
S

svrider

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hi i am new to the site and had a question on a gs550l the #2 cyl header pipe is only reading 120 degrees after a half hr running #1 is around 160 but 3 and 4 are right around 240--250 degrees . its a 1985 model with two carbs and i cleaned em up but no change !!! the compression is 150 lbs on 1,2,&4 but #3 is only 90 lbs is this a air leak or a valve or head gasket problem ? thanks for any insight
 
To clarify..... #1 pipe is on extreme left as you sit on bike???
Have you pulled spark plugs to see if they are wet or dry?
 
How did you "clean" the carbs?

Have you done the other basic maintenance, like valve adjustment?

How do the plugs look? Wet? Dry? New?

My guess is that the valves are out of adjustment and the carbs need to be cleaned properly and adjusted.

If this bike is new to you, it likely needs a LOT of other work, like brakes, tires, electrical connector cleaning, etc.

.
 
the carbs were stripped down and soaked for a few hours and then washed reassembled and installed , the only adjustments i saw were idle air or pilot screws on top and i seated them than backed off 1.5 turns . everything else on bike is cherry ,the po put new sprockets and chain ,new tires and new battery but i bought it running like this cheap ! and yes the # 2 cyl is second from left ,thats the cold one
 
Hi babes.

Tricky problemo....
But nothing more than a 30 year old bike throws at us all from time to time...

Try this...
If you put a small amount ov oil into the cylinders to do another compression test and if the readings are higher... Its your piston rings, if its no higher, it could be valves or a shim (too big).
Could be carburation (blocked jets or airways, stuck needle valve, damaged float, needle set too low.
Could be a fuel restriction ov some kind (fuel tap partially blocked, ruptured diaphram or inline filter (if fitted, too small or partially blocked.
Could be the ignitor box (if auto ignition is fitted)...
Maybe condensor (if points are fitted)

Hmmm, maybe some loose connection somewhere.
...dirty fuel maybe.
Possibly an over-oiled pod (if fitted)
blown spark plug...
HT leads cracked or damaged (try snipping off a few mm's back to good braiding.)
Cracked inlet manifold (even a tiny hole) or the littpe screw that you undo to attach a carbtune vacume guage onto to balance the carbs could be a little bit loose or not sealing properly.
...... Not sure if theres owt else i can say really.

Good luck getting your hands good and dirty.
Get a manual or check out the forum for online copies.
Take it slow and steady.and youll get there.

Xxx
 
Last edited:
Us Lumpy-jumpered Spanner Monkeys can be very intimidating....

..not sure why.
Ahem.....

im off to scare someone else...

Xxx
 
not scared , just busy ;] i put new plugs in it and adjusted the valves seems better now but still hiccuping around 7k im gonna ride a bit more and see if it clears up anymore. Thanks for the help guys
 
gs cold pipes

ok guys this bike is odd ,it ran great for 3 days but stalled on thruway 2 miles from my house on my way to work and i had to push it home and take the sv to work (so i could make up time:D) it woulnt start at all on thruway and when i got home after work tried to start it and wouldnt run off choke . I pulled plugs and they are a little darker than tan and they all still have a blue spark . I then started the bike and let it run on choke for a bit and noticed the #3and#4 cyl header pipes cold ! Pulled plugs again and #3 and#4 were wet . Is it possible the coil or cdi box is breaking up under load and how would i test that ? i am at a loss here any insight would be helpful ,thanks again


p.s. when it was running right the bike is a blast
 
Replace your carb plugs, some times they leak and yield to low combustion temps.
 
When I cleaned the carbs I painted the Welch plugs with appliance touch up paint (something an old timer tought me years ago ) and I never had a problem before . And this bike has the two throttle slides per Carb, I didn't see a adjustment to sync them, all I did was turn the idle air screw 1.5 turns out on all carbs, am I missing something?
 
svrider said:
When I cleaned the carbs I painted the Welch plugs with appliance touch up paint (something an old timer tought me years ago ) and I never had a problem before . And this bike has the two throttle slides per Carb, I didn't see a adjustment to sync them, all I did was turn the idle air screw 1.5 turns out on all carbs, am I missing something?
Click to expand...

There is an adjustment screw with locknut on the front of the carbs, in between them. It is slightly to the right of the throttle cable.

You will need to follow the steps in the carb adjustment series on BassCliff's site.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/carb-balance.pdf

It is nice that for these, you only have one screw to adjust, not three like most of us do.
 
You stated they were ""soaked for a few hours"" That doesnt cut it if you mean like 2 or 3 hours. You gotta soak each carb body for a FULL24 HRS..you can out 2 at a time in the dip if you remove the basket. Same for all the jets and internal bits..24 HRS. Dont soak the composite floats, rubber plugs over the pilot jets, the orings on the jets, the float seat screens with the plastic rims, or the fiber washers under the float seats..If its not metal it doesnt go in the dip. Then recheck the float heights, reset the needles, proper bench sync, and finally vacuum sync them. Be sure the valves are within specs to 1) ensure the valves are actually closing all the way, which may or may not improve the compression reading..and 2) this ensures the vacuum running thru the carbs is optimal so you get a good vacuum sync the first time. And lastly, be sure that when you do the compression check its done right. Do it on a warmed up engine is critical...remove the plug wires on all 4 plugs, twist the throttle full open and crank till the needle isnt gonna go any higher and then read the guage. Repeat on other 3 cylinders. May wish to apply a battery charger to recharge between swapping from cylinder to cylinder so you can get it done without running out of cranking power.
 
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