yep, 1074 is 1100.
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If it's a speedway car, depending on your local rules, you can drop the stator and charging system. To lighten the crank, it's possible to separate the rotor outer from the hub - leaving the starter clutch in place. This will help off corner acceleration noticeably.
A modest battery will see you right for a days (or evenings) racing. First start from cold use a jumper battery but after that your on board battery will do it.
Yes, those are RS Mikunis - on a little oval raised piece on the side there's a number - 36, 38, 40 etc. This is the bore size in mm.
A modest battery will see you right for a days (or evenings) racing. First start from cold use a jumper battery but after that your on board battery will do it.
Yes, those are RS Mikunis - on a little oval raised piece on the side there's a number - 36, 38, 40 etc. This is the bore size in mm.
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racerz
Guest
Interested on the rotor, let me know ,thanks
PS. I can mail you my puller to take it off if needed.
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racerz
Guest
My parts guy just sent me another rotor hub and its is wrong as well. Here is the pics, the one on the left is what he sent, the one on the right is mine. The center section extends out 1-7/16" on the incorrect hub and mine extends out 1-1/8", also the longer one has a smaller hole and will not allow the crank snout to go through. Also the stepped lip to center or register the starter sprag is smaller O.D. of 3.070", mine is 3.306" and has a bigger 3 bolt pattern. Any idea why they are different and the application for the incorrect one?
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racerz
Guest
starter sprag step comparison pics
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racerz
Guest
FYI, I want to thank everybody for their input and help, I was able to identify the motor and find the correct part from one of your members. thanks again
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revolution
Guest
rotors....katana small vs gs1100 big....for a record
