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GS1100E float ht/ fork question.

  • Thread starter Thread starter cdnoel
  • Start date Start date
C

cdnoel

Guest
Just traded my 850L for an 80 1100E that has some, er um, well issuses.

I'll get my grubbys on a manual soon and I have been through thes issues before but I have a couple of questions to get me started.

Whats the recomened float height for my floats?

Also before I get into my forks I notice some sort of adjusters at the bottom of the legs. Just wondering what the differences are between my 850L forks and these on my 1100E? Will I have more adjustments to fiddle with or set to standard as I re-assemble? Also does dis-assembly require unloading of these adjustments?

Thanks, Chris.
 
22.4mm + or - 1mm measured on gasket surface minus gasket.
......................
 
It's a damping adjustment, that knob turns a small shaft within the damping rod, different size holes line up to control the flow of oil. I just rebuilt mine, haven't ridden it yet.
There's a free download service manual for this model on Cliff's website, has all the instructions you will need.
 
One thing to note that is of HIGH importance, and im not sure everyone has thumbed thru thier manual (not sure that its in the Clymer or even the SHOP manual, but the OWNERS manual, of which i have an original for the ES:D) When adjusting the dampning on these forks, failure to ASSURE that they are in the desired detent (1 2 3 4) and instead somewhere in between (1.5 2.5 etc) will result in the fork dampning in the FOURTH (stiffest) position! This, combined with soft, sacked out stock rear shocks, can result in a serious danger, so please fellas, pay close attention;)
 
Thanks.

Thanks.

Thanks.

Looks like some one put in carb kits without diping the carbs. Nice looking carbs but the bike runs like poop. Also discovered my main jets have been spaced down with some home made copper washers that are atleast 1mm thick. The guy must have liked the bike to run RICH for some reason. Just liked buying new plugs?

So far I have just goten into the #1 carb and will be diping them one at a time. We'll see what I find in the next three. Looks like he forced the float hinge pin as I had trouble getting it free. I'll have to de-bur it so I don't break off my float posts.

How do I get to Cliff's web site?
 
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Also discovered my main jets have been spaced down with some home made copper washers that are atleast 1mm thick.
There is no way to "space down" the main jets. When properly assembled, there is a washer (usually brass, and a millimeter or two thick) between the main jet and the needle jet (also known as 'emulsion tube' ). That needs to be there to keep the needle jet in place.​

.​
 
Home mad washer.

Home mad washer.

Turns out he lost two of those main jet washers. Mad up some home made jobs out of scrap copper. They are much thicker though and they do space the two jets lower into the bowl. Any one have a couple of washers they don't need? I'm sure I'll manage to find something suitable that is the right thickness.

He had the floats set at almost 25mm however so I'll have to lower them a bit.
 
Turns out he lost two of those main jet washers. Mad up some home made jobs out of scrap copper. They are much thicker though and they do space the two jets lower into the bowl. Any one have a couple of washers they don't need? I'm sure I'll manage to find something suitable that is the right thickness.

He had the floats set at almost 25mm however so I'll have to lower them a bit.
I think I have a couple.
 
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