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GS1150 Idling very rough, carb rebuild time?

  • Thread starter Thread starter asbjones
  • Start date Start date
A

asbjones

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hi guys this is on my '85 GS1150... I have my clutch newly done and its work'in dandy but my idle at a stop is terrible, its like its starved for gas and I have to rev it up everytime and either it goes or bogs down and then shoots up real quick, I had to adjust the idle too because it was dying at a stop, once it gets going its fine but at any low rpms its just no fun, I pulled the carbs out and cleaned them up cause the bike sat for a few months, floats werent sticking and the jets looked clear, could my float needle be worn out? or something else? my rubber boots for the carbs look good and arent cracked...
hmmmmm....
 
Well, it does not use o-rings, but certainly could use a carb rebuild. And if any of the intake tubes are stiff or non-pliable, now would be the time to replace them.
 
you need to pull the carb boots and replace the rubber O-Rings between the boots and the head, they get as hard as rock and leak air past.

PLEASE don't post recommendations about things that you APPARENTLY have NO knowlege about! This isn't your first either! I understand you trying to help but at least KNOW what you are talking about. Ray.
 
Without more info, one is forced to start with basic troubleshooting. Fuel, air, spark. if any one of the three are not up to par, your bike will run "OK", but idle poorly. Other variables include exhaust, airbox or pods, jetting, and or course, good ol' maintenance (what have you done lately/is anything due to be done). Report back on how your bike is set up currently, and if anything has been changed prior to this issue, and you will be surprised how many chime in when they don't have to ask all those questions before they can help you.

In the meantime you can inspect simple stuff like air filter, plug caps, plugs, vent tubes for carbs, etc., thinking fuelairspark fuelairspark fuelairspark.....
 
When is the last time you changed the spark plugs? Before you go and start doing things blindly, put new NGKs' and FRESH Gasoline in your bike.


now just from your decsription I'm thinking it cant be a very complicated issue. Idle RPM should be 1000~1100. Any lower than 1000 and it is going to be rough no matter what

1.dirty spark plugs
2.carb sync -
3. idle mixture adjustment
4. water in your fuel tank -- since you stated it sat for months..
 
thanks guys!
fuel air spark is what I have been thinking from the start or well at least fuel and spark, Ill check my records but I beleive I just changed the plugs a few months ago but Ill pullem and give them a check, I know it could use some new wires though, it sat for about 3 months and I did put fresh gas and a new fuel filter in...
Ill order up a carb rebuild kit for it, my rubber intake boots are good and are not cracked and do flex....
I have KN pods on it and I did blow them out with air...

Im going to work on it a lil bit today and see what I get...
 
Instead of a rebuild kit, order a new set of o-rings and dip the bodies. You might as well go all in, because the full strip isn't that much further than than what you have to do anyway for the "rebuild kits" available. I don't think you should need much more than o-rings anyway, since it was running good before. That means your floats were working, needle/seats were fine, jets were fine, blah blah blah. If you haven't done so already, look through Basscliffs site and you'll find everything you need.
 
Check the main jet. If its a 120 or 122.5 (stock), your way lean with pods. Do you have a pipe on it?
 
it ran great about a year ago, I have a pipe and pods on it and was like that when I got it, first thing I did when I got it was pop the carbs off to check them out and they were clean, then it kinda just starting running crappy at idle and chokeing up on the get go
 
I did a dyna jet stage 3 ,AFTER in a 80 750 gs E but also did a stator ,a rec/ reg. before the jet kit in that order.I can only tell you, if you have a new used bike to start at a point of referece and think that the OP was just BS ing you.listen to those who KNOW, not to any body w/ a simle or a funny whatever. P.S my wife hates this bike .
 
heres a little history on the bike...Ive owned the bike since 2006 and have been riding it since, Ive been on the gsr before but didnt go on it for awhile and my user account got deleted, Ive done lots of work to it over these last few years, repainted the entire thing VW Corrado flash red(had left over paint), got the Canada belly fairing, it was missing the side panels and the front fender, picked up the side fairing brackets(made my own at first), replaced the windscreen with a Gustafson, installed a gsxr 1100 rear mono shock with reservoir and rebuilt by aftershocks in RWC, rebuilt the forks with progressive springs and replaced one of the tubes, new Metzeler tires, did all the brakes and fluid, it had the chain conversion on it but did install a new chain after a few months, Givi side cases, led lighting all around, custom plate holder, replaced header with good used one and added VandH pipe(it had a real funky pipe on it), replaced the key ignition switch, made a custom gas cap from a 1100 cap(mine was missing and its a California tank), rebuilt the starter twice (thats another thread coming)and replaced the starter solenoid, I have another frame I want to eventually powder coat and change out...I love this bike, its been good, little heavy around town and in the corners but its like a x-wing fighter on the highway and is real loud so all the idiots in cars can hear me when I split lanes..haha...I've even taken it on the Laguna Seca track twice at motoGP(missed this years)
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=450794716342
 
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hey guys, FINALLY got my carbs town down and put back together, got new o-rings for the connections between the carbs, they looked rather clean and not gummed up, what I found was that I had some light rust in my tank that clogged the carbs up a bit, so Im going to have to seal the tank up which Ive done a handful of times before on other bikes..
I am wondering which fuel line from the petcock carries the fuel? the bigger one towards the front or the rear smaller one? I added a fuel filter to the bigger one but in my repair book it says its goes to a vacume connection for the carbs and not fuel supply...

heres the carbs before...
005.jpg


and after...
002-1.jpg
 
The bigger line(5/16?) is the fuel. The smaller line ( on the back-- as in the opposite side as the res-pri-on switch) is the vacuum line.
 
BTW, the bike won't run for crap without the airbox unless you rejet the carbs. Same story for adding pods.
 
BTW, the bike won't run for crap without the airbox unless you rejet the carbs. Same story for adding pods.

see post 12


it ran great about a year ago, I have a pipe and pods on it and was like that when I got it, first thing I did when I got it was pop the carbs off to check them out and they were clean, then it kinda just starting running crappy at idle and chokeing up on the get go
 
The bigger line(5/16?) is the fuel. The smaller line ( on the back-- as in the opposite side as the res-pri-on switch) is the vacuum line.

thats what I thought but my book is a little confusing, cool, so I got a filter on there correctly, gonna button it up possibly today but I have to tighten the clutch hub nut cause after I did my clutch cause it rattles bad...I sure miss riding my 1150!
 
You said you had the carbs apart. Did you sync them? Out of sync carbs can make the bike run like crap.
 
Did you rejet for the pods???

in older posts I wrote up a paragraph on the bike, it had a header and pods and pretty sure a jet kit when I got it as it ran great(and always has till a few months ago when I parked it), theres a video link of a run I took at Laguna seca(2 years in a row on this bike)...

Im pretty sure my problem was some very fine rust in the tank clogged the jets, carbs are clean and new fuel filter installed, gonna run it soon and see how it goes, Ill coat the tank when I get a chance...and my friend has the color tune to run on it as well...
 
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