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gs425 - How do I set the static timing!?

  • Thread starter Thread starter yanagawt
  • Start date Start date
Y

yanagawt

Guest
I have followed the manual, read basscliffs notes, and surfed the forums for similar problems. Yet I cannot get the static timing set and it is driving me crazy. The bike will start and run fine.

How I've performed it.
  • Center main plate. Adjust LEFT points gap at the widest point to 0.14".
  • Rotate engine to match LEFT 1F (not a 1 just a line) mark with index, rotate main plate until points just open.
This is where I get stuck, no matter how much I rotate the plate I can't get the points to open. There is some slight slop (less that 1/16") so if I fudge with it I can get them to open.On the LEFT the points open when the main plate is rotated left about 3/8" to the left of the center mark. On the RIGHT the half plate has to be fully rotated left.

The bike is completely stock. GS425L. No timing gun, but I assume thats easier??

I'm wondering if there may be a problem with either the points, or the lobe they contact? Like out of spec or a flat spot? Is it even possible? Seems the PO wasnt one for mainetnance...
 
Confirm please that you are setting the points gap to .014in not .14in
This would explain a lot !
If in fact you are using .014in then there shouldn't be much angular difference between the opening point and max gap - the cam bangs the points open to max very fast.
There are ways around not having a timing light - a voltmeter/multi meter across the points works as does a piece of wire attatched to a small 12v bulb - light goes out when points break.

Greg T
 
Sorry for the typo, yes it is .014".

I've been using a continuity tester to try to find where the points open but it no matter how I move the plate it the light doesn't go out. It shows continuity through the entire range of motion on the left and right plate adjustments. The points look OK, but is it possible they are worn too far?
 
Yes it is possible the heel of the points is too worn - as a visual check it should still be convex - if it's worn concave then replace,
Try disconnecting the wires to the points when checking continuity - you may also have an open circuit condenser - worth checking their resistance too.

Greg T
 
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