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GS450E - Thought it was a bad igniter...

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Yesterday I fired up my GS450E that I bought last week (been running fine all week) and then it died at a stoplight just down the street from my work. A friendly man (motorcylists are very helpful when another rider is in need apparently!) helped me check a few things. We checked for spark and there was none. When I am cranking the electric starter, I could hear a faint "pop" near the igniter. I don't know how to test the output of the igniter, but I had decided that I should look for a replacement (was quoted about $350!). I let it sit overnight and just a minute ago fired it up and it started briefly. I adjusted the choke because it was idling low and it died again and now won't start once more. My question: if the igniter has gone bad, would it work again like it did briefly today? Or, as I would imagine, would it just be kaput from a short or something? Does this sound fuel related? Also, the fuel valve under the tank is pointed down toward the "on" designation. Another post mentions making sure it is set to "res". I'm confused about where it's supposed to be now. Thanks for any advice...

Adam
 
Re: GS450E - Thought it was a bad igniter...

I have had fried ignitors that if left to cool would work off and on for a few seconds and make you think the problem was not the ignitor. Yes, it will do what you are experiencing.

I cant help with the petcock position on the 450. Neither of my bikes is on with the petcock lever pointing down, but some models are. We need a 450 guy here. :-)

Earl

atomistic said:
Yesterday I fired my GS450E that I bought last week (been running fine all week) and then it died at a stoplight just down the street from my work. A friendly man (motorcylists are very helpful when another rider is in need apparently!) helped me check a few things. We checked for spark and there was none. When I am cranking the electric starter, I could hear a faint "pop" near the igniter. I don't know how to test the output of the igniter, but I had decided that I should look for a replacement (was quoted about $350!). I let it sit overnight and just a minute ago fired it up and it started briefly. I adjusted the choke because it was idling low and it died again and now won't start once more. My question: if the igniter has gone bad, would it work again like it did briefly today? Or, as I would imagine, would it just be kaput from a short or something? Does this sound fuel related? Also, the fuel valve under the tank is pointed down toward the "on" designation. Another post mentions making sure it is set to "res". I'm confused about where it's supposed to be now. Thanks for any advice...

Adam
Click to expand...
 
Good to know... I guess I'll try and locate a cheaper igniter (can't afford $300+). Any good resouces anyone know about?

I don't suppose they can be repaired?
 
I think I remember a post from Duanage that he repaired them, but not sure.
Just put his name into a seasrch and Pm him I guess would be the easiest way to find out. Other than that, the cheapest way out if its the ignitor is probably to go with a Dyna S ignition system. that about $200, so it isnt cheap either. Used ignitions on ebay are a crap shoot and I figure none of the sellers know how to check one to know if its good or bad. You might get one on ebay for $50, but odds are it wont work is my way of looking at it.

Earl


atomistic said:
Good to know... I guess I'll try and locate a cheaper igniter (can't afford $300+). Any good resouces anyone know about?

I don't suppose they can be repaired?
Click to expand...
 
If you wish for a cheap ignitor, there are usually several on EBAY. Do a search under 'Suzuki GS'.
 
Well, I suppose there's a smart way and a cheap way to do this. My only reservation is that I don't really know if it's bad. It seems to point to this from reading posts and what Earl has shared. I'll look for posts on how to test the igniter and then make the purchase if necessary.

BTW: what other models can this igniter come from? Is it common to most 2 cylinder suzukis of that era? Just wondering if I'll be limited in the parts bikes I come accross...

I'm hoping that troubleshooting this bike is more straightforward than all the used cars I've owned :lol:
 
This is for an '85 700 but you can probably use the same tests for your bike.

Here's how to check the ignitor. Remove spark plugs 1 & 2 and ground them to the motor so they will fire when they get power. With the ignitor facing you, the plug on the right side of the ignitor is where the signal generator plug fits. The two terminals on the right side of that portion of the ignitor will be pin 1 at the front and pin 2 at the back. The two left pins will be pin 3 in front and pin 4 at the back. Turn the ignition switch on. With a multitester set a the X1 ohm range put the + probe on pin 2 and the - probe on pin 1. Plug number 1 should fire. Next put the + probe on pin 4 and the - probe on pin 3. Plug number 2 should fire. If this happens the ignitor is good and the signal generators are suspect.

As for testing the signal generators measure the resistance between the two wires on each generator. You should get somewhere around 130-200 ohms. If the resistance is infinity or less than spec they are shot.

To test the coils put one probe of the multitester on each of the terminals on the primary side of the coil. You should get 3-5 ohms. Check the secondary windings by placing one probe into each of the plug wires coming from one coil. Those would be 2 & 3 from one coil and 1 & 4 for the other. You should get 30-50,000 ohms for stock coils and 15-20,000 for aftermarket.

The coil test won't completely work for you. The secondary winding test won't work for you since you only have one plug wire. Someone familiar with that test will have to guide you. Usually you can spot the problem on the primary side anyway.
 
Hey Adam....your ignitor can be found on these bikes:

1980 GS250T
1980 GS450 ET,ST,EX,SX,EZ
1980 GS450L
1980 GS550,E
1980 GS550L
1981 GS250T
1981 GS450 ET,ST,EX,SX,EZ
1981 GS450L
1982 GS450 ET,ST,EX,SX,EZ
1982 GS450L
 
Re: GS450E - Thought it was a bad igniter...

atomistic said:
Also, the fuel valve under the tank is pointed down toward the "on" designation. Another post mentions making sure it is set to "res". I'm confused about where it's supposed to be now. Thanks for any advice... Adam
Click to expand...

The petcock on my '80 GS450S is the vacuum type. In the "on" postion it requires vacuum from the carb to make it open. It could be stuck or dirty on a bike that's been unused. In the "res" or prime position it's open, vacuum or no vacuum. Don't park with it in the res postion. Make sure the vacuum line is in good shape, not stiff, brittle or cracked. It would also be a good idea to drain the tank, remove the petcock and clean the fuel filter built into it.

I grabbed a used ignitor for around $20 on fleabay as a spare.
 
Thanks for the list of bikes, Bret. That opens up the possibilities. And I will make sure the petcock is in the ON position.

Billy, I didn't follow what you are saying about the wires connected to the Ignitor. Here is a picture of mine. It looks like a recently replaced aftermarket one to me.

http://pictures.sprintpcs.com/i/804...&border=2,255,255,255,1,0,0,0,0&outquality=90


I know I am not getting spark from the coils because I've taken the plug wire and looked for spark while cranking the starter. This may only narrow it down to either the ignitor or the coils, but both coils show no spark, so I imagine it is the ignitor. I'm a newbie, though, so it's all speculation on my part.
 
Clean the start/stop switch on the RT switch assembly, WHen the spark quits check to see if you have 12 volts on the coils
 
hey guys i try to find out the dyna S for the gs250T 1981 but i don't find anything and i also got a reply from dynatek saying that they don't know wich one will fit because it's like special fitment

can anyone help me with that
 
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