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GS650E carb problems....Help!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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OK...Its 50 degrees outside today and Im reved up again to finally complete several of my bike projects that didnt get much attention over the winter...to cold in that garage! ... priority project, my 1982 GS650E is ready, but ...... a short history, bought this bike with only 5,000 miles on it but it sat for a while, hense,I believe carbs are gummed...bike will start easy enough when I spray gas or starter fluid through the ventures, air box removed...I did a quick rebuild over the winter, no new parts, just removed main jets, checked float settings, etc...but once assembled again and with the air box on...still wont take on fuel....I am not as familiar with these CV carbs as I am on my other bike, 78 GS1000E...and someone told me that it wont start or take fuel well unless there is a good vacuum in the air box...tried to seal everything well but no good....could the carbs be badly gummed up that fuel wont flow through them?? and therefore should I have them professionally rebuilt...hate to spend that kind of money but....if I have to...or am I doing something wrong...have moved the petcock settings to all positions as well so fuel free flows when I pull off the main fuel line from the carbs...anyway...hoping that the gurus here can help....Tim....in Cinciinnat...
 
Get A set of O-rings and DIY

Get A set of O-rings and DIY

A guy named Robert Barr on this site can get you a set of O-rings. Or you can get 4 rebuild kits from a parts web site. This site has a pretty good section on how to totaly rebuild your carbs. I would suggest getting a junk carb or set, and tearing it down first. At any rate you can rebuild your carbs yourself for less than $150.00. If you do just the O-rings it probably wouldn't cost you more than $50.00.
 
Re: GS650E carb problems....Help!

Tim, I think youre starting in the middle of the stream. The first thing you need to do is pull the induction boots and replace the "O" ring seals that are between the boots and the cylinder head. Most of our bikes are 20+ years old and I expect most are still using the original boot "O" rings, They dry out, crush flat and lose their ability to seal, If the intake is not sealed, there is no way the carbs can induce the proper vacum and no amount of carb cleaning or adjustment will be of any use. Those seals are available online and from your local Suzuki dealer. I bought mine local from the dealer for $1.50 each. Once youve taken care of this, go to the carbs. Engine starting and idle is controlled by the enrichener jets (choke) and the idle fuel and air screws, Cleaning the mains would have no effect on idle or starting because the engine is not in a range where it would be using main jets when you start it. You will need to completely disassemble the carb rack and the throttle and enrichener linkages. There is no way to remove and clean the enrichener jets with the carb rack and carbs assembled. Also, on your fuel pilot, check that the orfices in the emulsion tubes are clear, there are usualy at least four small holes in the sides of the lower portion of the tubes. When you pull the intermediate and main jets, be sure to clean the side orfices there also. You can use a bristle from a steel brush to clear the holes if they are clogged. Be sure to remove all rubber parts as carb soaking solvent will destroy them. It is best to soak the carb bodies overnight and blow the passages out with compressed air. If you dont have access to a compressor, a spraycan of carb cleaner is probably the next best thing. Cycle recycle sells carb rebuild kits which include all jets, springs, gaskets and "O" rings for the carbs for $25 per carb. For CV carbs, I believe the kits include a new diaphram too. Their catalog page is at
http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm
Induction boot "O" rings are not part of a carb rebuild kit and you will need to get those separately. When you have everything back together with new seals, dont forget to set the float bowl levels. Also, your fuel petcock should only flow fuel freely with the engine off when set to the prime position, otherwise fuel flow is enabled by vacum.


Hmmm, a little edit here. The fuel petcock should flow fuel freely when set to the prime position with the engine either running or off. However, the prime position is normally used only to fill the float bowls on initial start up if you have run the carbs out of fuel.
Normal position for the petcock with the engine running is on or reserve. Fuel should not flow with the petcock in the on or reserve position if the engine is not running.

Earl


tkass said:
OK...
a short history, bought this bike with only 5,000 miles on it but it sat for a while, hense,I believe carbs are gummed...bike will start easy enough when I spray gas or starter fluid through the ventures, air box removed...I did a quick rebuild over the winter, no new parts, just removed main jets, checked float settings, etc...but once assembled again and with the air box on...still wont take on fuel....
Click to expand...
 
Buy the intake boot O-rings yourself.

Buy the intake boot O-rings yourself.

If you find a store that sells O-rings, you can buy them yourself. My 82 850L took 2mm thick * 36mm ID. Thats 3/32 * 1 1/2 if you need it in inches.
 
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