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GS650E only runs on starter fluid

  • Thread starter Thread starter underground
  • Start date Start date
U

underground

Guest
hey,

so i should kick this off by saying that i'm still a bike newbie -- but i'm not lazy and really want to understand what's going on so please don't give me too hard of a time.

so i found that my bike wouldn't start up today. i put it away last night with no problems. i found that it will run for a few moments if i spray starter fluid into the airbox...but then quickly dies.

the tank was initially out of gas (i must have been in a hurry last time i refueled and not topped off -- i normally get ~95 miles/tank and this was at ~52.)

i put in about a gallon of gas...no progress.

spark plugs are less than 2 months old. carbs have been well synced before.

so i'm stumped. it's apparently a matter of either air flow or fuel flow right?

But...there is gas in the float bowls (i believe this implies that the fuel is in fact making it's way into the carbs??)

and doesn't the very fact that the system can run on starter fuel imply that there is no air intake problem (i'm not saying the air intake is perfect -- it could totally use a new filter and i've already ordered one.)

the carbs have been hopelessly gunked up before -- but the bike was running perfectly last night! it seems unlikely that the carb situation could degrade so fast!

plz help guys!
 
The engine isn't getting fuel if it runs off starter fluid. Try setting your petcock to prime for a couple of min's, then switch it back to Run or Res.
 
Careful-excess use of starter fluid can start a fire you can't necessarily see, inside the airbox, which can melt some of the rubber and plastic in there-ask me how I know. (luckily, I just distorted one of the air intake tubes a bit, there's others on here who have caused real damage to their intake systems):o
 
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. underground,

All it takes is for a piece of gunk, rust, or fuel varnish to break loose and lodge in one of those small passages inside the carbs and then she won't run any more. I guess it's kind of like having a stroke. :eek:

Everything starts with properly cleaned carbs, valve adjustment, air intake repair, and charging system repair. See the maintenance lists in your "mega-welcome". Every item must be properly attended to in order to have a safe and reliable motorcycle. Taking shortcuts or skipping steps could lead to injury or severe death, or at least much wailing, gnashing of teeth, and pulling of hair. Here we go...

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
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Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

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Please Click Here For Your Mega-Welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Put away the starter fluid. You bike isn't getting gas up thru carbs. You said your carbs were "hopelessly gunked up" - did you clean them properly? How does the inside of your gas tank look? As Basscliff hinted, there's lots of maintenace to catch up on- without doing these things, new problems will keep surfacing .
 
Tank appears clean and free of rust.

I'm sure ill catch hell for saying this here...but I was really hoping I could get through this season without having to spend two weeks breaking down the carbs...its my daily commuter after all. Guess I was deluding myself.

When something goes wrong I'm sort of excited because I get to learn how to fix it though.
 
A few more question though as prior to this it was running okay...

As a fellow 650 rider, a few thoughts. 95 miles/tank is bad. Sounds like you may be running rich? definately doesn't sound like its running right.

Without the starter fluid, what does the bike do when you're trying to start it?

Do you put the choke 'on'? Also, try putting the tank onto Prime for a few minutes before trying to start. Atleast here at altitude, if mine sits it can be very tempermental to get started.

Does it just crank and crank with no start? or does it sputter?

With lots of cranking ur battery can drain off just enough to make starting even more difficult.

I'd start with the easy stuff and work from there especially if up till running out of gas it seemed to be running fine

. Battery okay? gas in tank? Gas getting to carbs? Air filter box closed and filter oiled properly? Choke on? Crank but no start?
 
what do you get per tank?

once i get some time i'll really strip it down...right now i'm just replacing the air filter (just ordered a nice K&N one) and cleaning out the carbs and jets (not as comprehensively as basscliff would probably like)

i'm soaking the jets in pinesol right now and will spray and wipe down all the other componets with carb cleaner tomorrow.

pulled the spark plugs today...totally black. running very rich for sure. what else besides gunked up carbs and a dirty air filter can cause that??
 
oh just to respond...

choke doesn't help...it does indeed crank and crank

it will start up with starter fluid in the airbox but quickly dies when that all burns off

petcock is letting fuel through for sure. tested it. there is indeed gas in the tank. no electrical problems (currently...see my other posts for more details.)

carbs were full of gasoline when i pulled them...my best guess is a gunked up jet preventing fuel flow? i'll rebuild this weekend and post about it.
 
underground said:
what do you get per tank?

once i get some time i'll really strip it down...right now i'm just replacing the air filter (just ordered a nice K&N one) and cleaning out the carbs and jets (not as comprehensively as basscliff would probably like)

i'm soaking the jets in pinesol right now and will spray and wipe down all the other componets with carb cleaner tomorrow.

pulled the spark plugs today...totally black. running very rich for sure. what else besides gunked up carbs and a dirty air filter can cause that??
Click to expand...

underground said:
oh just to respond...

choke doesn't help...it does indeed crank and crank

it will start up with starter fluid in the airbox but quickly dies when that all burns off

petcock is letting fuel through for sure. tested it. there is indeed gas in the tank. no electrical problems (currently...see my other posts for more details.)

carbs were full of gasoline when i pulled them...my best guess is a gunked up jet preventing fuel flow? i'll rebuild this weekend and post about it.
Click to expand...


Sorry man but you are going to continue having problems if you don't just put the starter fluid away and clean those carbs the right way.
 
In reality all of the neglected maintenance should be done before trying to ride it.

Anything less is asking for trouble.
 
You could send those carbs to me and I'd have them cleaned, bench synched, and back to you in less than two weeks. I've done carbs for people I felt like helping in the past for free. Just use the carb clean-up guide found on the site's homepage and you can handle it.
 
underground said:
once i get some time i'll really strip it down...right now i'm just replacing the air filter (just ordered a nice K&N one) and cleaning out the carbs and jets (not as comprehensively as basscliff would probably like)

i'm soaking the jets in pinesol right now and will spray and wipe down all the other componets with carb cleaner tomorrow.

pulled the spark plugs today...totally black. running very rich for sure. what else besides gunked up carbs and a dirty air filter can cause that??
Click to expand...
That's nice. :rolleyes:

Then, when you STILL have the same problems that you do now, you might realize ... "hey, maybe these guys DO know how to get my bike running right". :-\\\

You can clean the jets all day long. You can put NEW jets in there. It's STILL not going to run correctly until the INSIDES of the carbs are COMPLETELY cleaned. The BEST way is to take EVERYTHING off the carb bodies, separate the rack, soak each carb body, float bowl and all the jets (but NO rubber parts) in Berryman's (or Gunk) Carb Cleaner Dip for a full day. When you re-assemble the carbs, put them together with new o-rings from cycleorings.com. Be sure you also get the drain screw o-rings (for an extra penny) and the intake boot o-rings and the stainless bolts for the intake boots. The o-ring kit and the bolts are less than $25.

Yes, it's going to take several days to do this (but not the two weeks you were guessing), but it will be a one-time deal. If you ride it often enough to keep fresh gas in it, or winterize it properly, you will not have to do this again for several years.

Keep stalling around and using kitchen detergents to do the job of proper solvents, some of us are likely to just tune you out and ignore any further pleas for help.

.
 
Steve said:
That's nice. :rolleyes:

Then, when you STILL have the same problems that you do now, you might realize ... "hey, maybe these guys DO know how to get my bike running right". :-\\\

You can clean the jets all day long. You can put NEW jets in there. It's STILL not going to run correctly until the INSIDES of the carbs are COMPLETELY cleaned. The BEST way is to take EVERYTHING off the carb bodies, separate the rack, soak each carb body, float bowl and all the jets (but NO rubber parts) in Berryman's (or Gunk) Carb Cleaner Dip for a full day. When you re-assemble the carbs, put them together with new o-rings from cycleorings.com. Be sure you also get the drain screw o-rings (for an extra penny) and the intake boot o-rings and the stainless bolts for the intake boots. The o-ring kit and the bolts are less than $25.

Yes, it's going to take several days to do this (but not the two weeks you were guessing), but it will be a one-time deal. If you ride it often enough to keep fresh gas in it, or winterize it properly, you will not have to do this again for several years.

Keep stalling around and using kitchen detergents to do the job of proper solvents, some of us are likely to just tune you out and ignore any further pleas for help.

.
Click to expand...

Likewise the brakes, wheel bearings, forks, tires, levers, cables and all of the other required stuff. They take some time and effort, but less time and effort than healing from a fall. If you are the hop on and ride type, buy a newer bike.
 
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