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Handlebar and cables

  • Thread starter Thread starter monkeywrench
  • Start date Start date
I don't know the exact answer for your bike; but (see my post on "E" series handles) I just picked up a really nice handle bar off what I think was a 70's era "E" series bike. The bars are stock suzuki, and I have NO troubles with the throttle snapping, even at both turning extremes. Someone said in my post that part of the issue could be after market bars that don't quite work on our bikes. Having said that, it sounds like some of the bars are working for a few (whatever Cafe bars mean?). My cables are definitely too long and they kind of bulge out too much; but I don't care, as long as my throttle is working right. Just drove it about 60 miles today--trouble free!
Rick
 
It seems like it is a cable length issue. If I just hold the throttle in the air not even attached to a bar at a certain height it works just fine. So when it is down low(on the drag bar or not) it won't recoil. These cable are a lot smarter than I thought or like, lol. So the question is, what do I need to do to get them to work at a lower height? Change my cables out to be shorter or can I shorten the existing cable somehow?

Sounds like its being twisted. Loosen the connections and free up the cable.
 
I changed mine to flat bars when I did my cafe(I call her De-Cafe:D). Just re-routed the clutch cable to pass behind the headlight pot,across the right side of the frame and enter the engine bay from the left(it's like an "S" type bend. Did the same with the throttle cable. I like the idea of Katana cables. I loosened the banjo bolt for the brake hose and swung it towards the throttle and then back to take up some slack.
 
I put superbike bars on mine (will take pictures when I get the clutch back together :p). What I did was pulled the slack up under the tank after loosening the straps under there. I just made a slight arch along the backbone and strapped them both down. It works great...no sticking or lack of snap back. My brake line kinda looks like chuck_zc's but works fine.
 
Throttle and clutch cable reroute issue

Throttle and clutch cable reroute issue

Sounds like its being twisted. Loosen the connections and free up the cable.


Hey Billy or anyone, can you elaborate on this for me? I've pulled out all the slack on the cable and created a big loop and that didn't help. I stuffed more back under the tank and that didn't help. I've never loosened any connections or detached the cables in any way. Should I do that and how?

I rode the bike last night and at 3K rpm it will shift smooth but if I throttle back hard I get no power conversion...it will just rev high but won't pull. Is that the clutch cable now too?

Ugh...just wanted to swap out these uncomfortable stock mini apes...they're killing my throttle wrist no matter what position I put them in.

Appreciate the help guys!
 
I rode the bike last night and at 3K rpm it will shift smooth but if I throttle back hard I get no power conversion...it will just rev high but won't pull. Is that the clutch cable now too?

What I would do is see if when you move your handlebars does the clutch pivot arm (the lever that the clutch cable hooks to on the engine) move.

When I put my bars on and started figuring out how to route the cables that is when I saw the arm moving as I moved the handlebars back and forth.
 
What I would do is see if when you move your handlebars does the clutch pivot arm (the lever that the clutch cable hooks to on the engine) move.

When I put my bars on and started figuring out how to route the cables that is when I saw the arm moving as I moved the handlebars back and forth.

Even when I don't turn the bars it has that weird lag. I'll triple check them tomorrow...ugh!
 
550L handlebars

550L handlebars

Hi Folks,

I'm actually looking to go the other way. I bought an '85 550LF that came with the wrong bars. I want to put some original handlebars back on it. Do any of you with cafe bar projects want to get rid of your original bars?
Alternatively, can anyone tell me which other L-style bars would fit? Suzuki changed the part number model to model and year to year. Can someone decode the Suzuki part numbering scheme?

Thanks,
Eric -- definitely a noob at this point
 
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