• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Hard to clutch

  • Thread starter Thread starter ggreenfield
  • Start date Start date
G

ggreenfield

Guest
I did read several threads about stiff clutches. Here's what I have:

Original OEM clutch cable
- Cable when disconnected from pivot arm moves freely. It is routed properly and not binding anywhere.

Original OEM clutch.
- Never been replaced or changed.

Aftermarket shorter handlebars.
- I did move the entire clutch handle farther out on the handlebars approx. 5/8" which seems to heave eaten up some of the excess cable between the clutch lever and pivot arm so it's a little easier to pull but not much.

How to adjust the pivot arm properly? How to know (without engaging/disengaging the clutch on a running engine) at which point the clutch actually disengages? Sure, put the bike in 1st, clutch, see if it rolls freely. Yes it does but you can still feel a little resistance when trying to spin the rear wheel. This is normal I suppose? Well..... I even forced the pivot arm all the way in and still I could feel this resistance.

How hard should it be to push the pivot arm all the way in? It is so stiff on my bike that I had to use an additional lever. I could not do it with my hands alone. Maybe this is normal?

I'll be changing the oil tomorrow or the next day hopefully that helps some as well.

What is the solution for using shorter handlebars? Custom built clutch cable? I can't move the clutch handle any further out without shoving the grips off the end of the handlebars.
 
My CB750K now has short bars and there's no significant difference in force required to squeeze the clutch lever, even though I have the original, long, cable. As long as there are no really sharp bends there should be no problem. You definitely should be able to do it with one hand.
The online manual on this site has the step-by step adjustment procedure for the whole system. If, even after following that, you still have problems, then there may be something wrong in the basket.
Of course, it may be that the clutch has been inactive (bike been sitting for a long time?), and that it need to loosen up.
 
Cable may not look like it's binding, but if it got smashed at one time in its life, the outer jacket may have come back to resemble "normal", but the inner part is binding, and you can't see it. Try a new cable.

Oh, moving the levers in or out on the bars doesn't change the leverage ratio at all. If it's hard in one position, it's still going to be hard in another. By rotating the lever up or down, you might find a position where it is easier to pull, but it's just better efficiency with your hand, not a better ratio to make the pull easier.


.
 
SU0103_015.gif

On the clutch pinion gear there are bearings. (#27 and #25) When I first bought my 1100 the clutch was a bear. I took off the clutch crankcase cover and found the pinion gear to be bound. I didn't replace the bearings cause I put on an Ebay chrome cover where the gear moved freely.
Also I've had bad cables where they appeared to be good.
Are you sure no one put some HD clutch springs on?
 
You can not operate the piviot arm at the clutch cover by hand
 
OK some changes @ both the upper & lower clutch cable adjusters and slightly moving the clutch handle out as mentioned have made a noticeable improvement. Now the angle between the clutch cable and the pivot arm is < 90 degrees when engaged and > 90 degrees when disengaged. Hopefully the oil changes does some good as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top