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HELLO! NOOB with 1980 GS550E ?'s i.e. HELP!

  • Thread starter Thread starter yellow
  • Start date Start date
Update, again

Update, again

Nerobro - Thanks for the great offer of rebuilding. I may just have to take you up on that. Everything in the carbs looks shiny and replaced. PO must have cleaned and replaced with rebuild kit. I did take them apart again and readjusted the floats with the link you sent. they were a 'little' low. But when I took them off the bike and drained the bowls there was quite a bit off gas in them.

Petcock
Appears to be working and must have been rebuilt with kit by PO. Engine is pulling vacuum.

Shocks
I actually looked at the manual when I was looking for direction to rebuild. Not intended for service. So If I ever get her running might look into a *new* set.
 
Update, again

Update, again

Marc-Checked compression again. Numbers did not change wether or not the throttle was fully opened or closed. What does that mean?
 
Questions

Questions

OK, after rechecking floats put the carbs back in and tried to start her. No gas was getting to the bowls. This happened last time at first too. First time I tried to start, NO GAS. Waited aday - GAS. This time NO GAS when carbs put back in. What is going on?

Engine oil level was good (in middle of sight glass) before I started messing with it. Now I just checked and there is no oil in window. There are no puddles on the floor. Where did it go?


Thanks again for helping me keep my sanity. It is really nice to be able to go screw stuff up and then come back inside and tell you guys.
 
2) rear shocks super soft and need to be rebuilt. Not sure if this is easy or not. Shocks currently adjusted so they are their longest

3) it is really hard to get into neutral if bike is running. takes perhaps about 20 times of going between 1st and 2nd to get it into N. When she is not running it is not a problem to get into N
Click to expand...

You want to se the preload to where the shock is at the smallest setting...where it's loading the spring as much as possible. It'll get a little tighter.

I'll tell you know, your best and most price friendly option for shocks is a set of Progressive 14's. Call Rob at CycleRecycle2 (www.usedmotorcycleparts.com) and ask him about them. Remind him he may have to use S&W springs.

He did this on my old 550 and it was soooo much better than stock.

Regarding the netural thing. Try putting it in 1st gear and rolling the bike a little by bumping the clutch. As it's rolling, slip the gear up into neutral. It'll shift easier if the bike is moving.

Change your plugs if you haven't yet...I saw your pictures of them. The bike looks really nice btw!

~Adam
 
yellow said:
OK, after rechecking floats put the carbs back in and tried to start her. No gas was getting to the bowls. This happened last time at first too. First time I tried to start, NO GAS. Waited aday - GAS. This time NO GAS when carbs put back in. What is going on?

Engine oil level was good (in middle of sight glass) before I started messing with it. Now I just checked and there is no oil in window. There are no puddles on the floor. Where did it go?


Thanks again for helping me keep my sanity. It is really nice to be able to go screw stuff up and then come back inside and tell you guys.
Click to expand...
You know, this happened to me a couple of months ago when I was getting my 550 going. The level was good, I ran it for maybe 15 seconds, and the oil level never came back even after overnight. However, after starting it the next evening, the oil was back in the sight glass. I don't know if it got trapped in the cam area, clutch/tranny, or oil filter maybe. Try starting it for a few seconds, 4 or 5 and see if it returns.
 
More UPDATES

More UPDATES

Oil level did come back to normal today. But still no gas in bowls nothing going in them after turning over. Any IDEAS?
 
About 99% of the time, difficulty in finding neutral is a clutch adjustment problem. With the bike on the centerstand, rear wheel off the ground, start the bike, put it into 1st gear and pull in the clutch lever. If clutch adjustment is correct, the rear wheel will either stop or lightly continue turning. If it is still turning, you should be able to stop it easily by placing two bare fingers on the tread. Adjust the clutch cable until you can stop the tire with medium pressure of a couple of fingertips.

Earl
 
Earl - I wish I could get it to run to try what you suggest. Once I get to that point I'll do the the clutch test.

Andy
 
Nothing!

Nothing!

Ok, took apart petcock again, still good. There is gas in the bowls. But now start. I might have to wait for it to warm up a little. Unheated garage.

Nerobro, I might be giving you a shout as soon as it warms up a little and I get some free time.
 
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