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High revs right at start up

  • Thread starter Thread starter marek
  • Start date Start date
M

marek

Guest
So I finally put the bike together, first time I started it up, the rpms went up to about 4k, then after 30 seconds it dropped and the engine died. I was able to start it up again but it died quickly and I was not able to start it again.

So I pulled the carbs and discovered that I set the float height too high, so I lowered it, hopefully to the right height (22.4 +/- 1) and now it starts up but revs go right to 5k rpm and stays there. Choke is off (turning it on increases rpms past 6k) and the fuel valve is in the ON position and not prime. I even turned the idle screw back all the way I could.

It does pop a bit when running and you get a nice loud backfire after shutting it off, but it does start back up without issue.

So I'm guessing it's running too rich, would setting the floats too low cause this? Suzuki mad said the correct float height is 22.4 +/-1 just like my Clymer manual says, but I also have a factory manual which states 26.6 +/- 1mm which is what I had it set to the first time. I just called a local Suzuki dealer and they said 26.6mm. Setting them at 22.4mm puts them really close to touching the ceiling of the float chamber by the way (with the carbs upside down).


Also another question. On my bike there is another fuel filter in between the fuel line that goes from the petcock to the carbs, was this filter there right out the factory or did someone add it later? I ask because it is a pain in the butt to get the fuel line onto it.
 
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Had the same problem when I put my bike back together a few weeks ago. Turned out to be an air leak, which leaned out the mixture. A new set of carb boots and o-rings was the cure. :) The popping and backfiring is a sign of a lean condition. The idle screw should be 2-2.5 turns out, your idle is way too lean if it's turned all the way in.
 
I started it up again after it cooled a bit and it idled at 2k rpm for about 5 seconds then back up to 5k. I guess the boots heated up and started leaking.

Going to order new ones and o-rings tomorrow.

Thanks.
 
If the boots are soft and pliable you can reuse them. You are going to need the large O-rings though to seal them.
 
Nessism said:
If the boots are soft and pliable you can reuse them. You are going to need the large O-rings though to seal them.
Click to expand...

Very true - mine were hard, brittle, and probably as old as the bike. :shock:
 
sidebar: where'd you get those air filter pods?
DSC01507icon.jpg
 
The boots are very hard, I had to use a blow dryer (as suggested by someone here) to heat them up so they'd get soft enough to get onto the carbs. Wouldin't surprise me if they were the original ones.
 
4 to 1

4 to 1

where did you get and what kind of exhaust are on the streetfighter?

Those would look great on the bride of frankenstein
 
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Got new airbox and intake boots + o-rings installed. What a difference, it's alive!

A little adjustment of the idle screw and everything was running perfect after it got warmed up with choke off.

One weird thing happened, you know the barb on the left carb that connects the vacuum line to the petcock? Well the round part which the barb is connected to just...popped out. I did not know the whole thing was removable, it does turn though. This was still when the bike was warming up and it did not happen again. Is this thing supposed to come out at all?

I also tried to do a carb synch but how are you supposed to loosen the locknut on the throttle balance screw? It's located in between the carbs and right next to the hot engine. Very little room to insert anything into there.

Overall I'm excited as hell, finally got the bike running well, soon it will be riding time (this is my first motorcycle).

Also, here is a picture of my old airbox boots next to the new ones, holy shrinkage!

boots1.jpg


boots2.jpg


No wonder it was so hard to get them on before when they've shrunk so much.

Thanks for all the advice guys.
 
You sure those are the right boots? Part numbers seem molded in...
 
Yup they're the same part numbers. The old ones are rock hard until you heat them up. Probably 5+ years old.
 
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