How HOT is too hot? 1100GK

[Redman]

Took care of several probelms with this GK I got in November. Is running smooth now, but not the power I think it should have, and it runs real hot. Seems to put out 3 - 4 times the heat as the 650G that I had and the 850G that I have.

Was trying to think how to describe how hot it gets
- seem like it could fuse my socks into my feet,
- seems like it could fuse my jeans into my legs.
- going down highway 65mph, cant even touch the cooling fin, get fingers 1/4inch away and can tell that if I touched it would get burnt.
- going down highway, 65mph, cant hold fingers 1/2 inch away for more than a few seconds.
- legs still feel cooked after being off bike for half hour later.

But those comments all seem rather subjective, was trying to think of something more defintive/quantitiave. Then I remember comments about dropping water on it to see what happens, so I did that.
- rode about 20 miles, 80 degress outside, pulled into driveway, turned it off, stepped into garage got waterbottle off of bicycle, and stepped back out to bike ...
- drop of water on head cooling fin, spitz sizzle - gone in puff of steam
- can squirt water on head cooling fin, spitzz sizzle sizzlle sizzle, takes a couple seconds before stream of water cools off that cooling fin but water running down to top of head by spark plugg is still sizzling-bouncing-spitzing and almost immeadailty going up in steam.
YIKES that seems way too hot to me. Any comments?

This too hot?
Way too hot? Like should not keep doing this?
What could be cause of this? What should I look into?

Other info:
- fresh oil change, Valvoline motorcycle oil.
- compression check this spring showed somewhat low, like 130-140-130-125. With squirt of oil is way up to 180s
- Now have all new spark plug caps, all cyclinders seem to warm up same when first started.
- Now runs smmother after replacing the intake boot o-rings. They were turned into hard plastic like. Now know why.
- just less than 30 thousand miles.
- all stock, including fariing and lowers.
- Have not checked valve clearance.
- Does not seem to have any more power than my 850G (maybe less), does run up to 7 - 8 grand but not very fast (my 850 will easily redline if not carefull).
.

 

[Billy Ricks]

You need to check your plugs for color. I wouldn't worry about plug chops at this point.

 

[Redman]

plug read

plug read

Well, If Billy Ricks says we need to inspect my plugs: We need to inspect my plugs. (I heard about Billy Ricks when I went to Tx Hill Country ride last year.)

Here is a pic. Didnt really know wieter you want to see the electrode or the insulator or the ground tab, but since all four plugs look pretty much the same, I arranged them in each in different orinetation. They are NKG number BR8ES. Let me know if you want to see from a different angle.

Are arranged 1-4 from left to right. Up until last weekend #1 & #4 had plug caps with ohm readings like 20 or 30K (rather than 5k). Have rode maybe 300 miles since replacing them.

View attachment 666

Should the last 2-3 threads be discolored like that?

See anything here that indicates the problem of the engine running so HOT? why it doesnt have the power it should?

I await the diagnosis from Billy and any/all the other knowledgable GSR folks.

 

[Billy Ricks]

The last few threads will get discolored so that's not a problem. The white porcelain means you are definitely lean. You could probably stand to richen the entire range a bit and work from there. Start with a set of richer mains and mixture screw adjustment and go from there. If the caps aren't already removed form the mixture screws nows the time to do it. As lean as you're running I'd go up two full sizes on the mains, ie if you have 120's then bump up to 130's. Then adjust the mixture screws. You need to make certain you don't have any intake leaks as well. After that do some plug chops at different throttle openings to see where each circuit stands. If midrange is still lean the needles may need to be shimmed. I have a bunch of mains I'll never use so once you see what you have in your carbs if you don't want to go out and buy any let me know and I'll drop some in the mail to you.

 

[Billy Ricks]

Well, If Billy Ricks says we need to inspect my plugs: We need to inspect my plugs. (I heard about Billy Ricks when I went to Tx Hill Country ride last year.)

And you still want my advice?

 

[Billy Ricks]

Looks like the stock mains are supposed to be 115's. As white as your plugs are I'd try 125's to start with.

 

[Redman]

Thanks Billy,
So, I now understand what you are saying: white porcelan = lean.
And I have heard that lean = hot engine.
You are thinking that the plugs looked so lean that I need to go to different jet size, okay, you know more about it than I do.

Was getting well over 40 mpg, close to 50, so, yah seems kinda lean.

I have had carbs off earlier this spring. Took out all the jets and cleaned with small wire. Except the air mixture, was concerned about messing with the setting. Might there a problem there, that could be causing this overheating?

Carbs still had the mixture screw plugs, looked undisturbed, so I assume still at original setting. Just this afternoon I pulled them out (I turned drywall screws into them, then pulled with plyers, was fairley easy). This air mixture is mostly in what might be called the slow speed circuit, right? So adjustments there mostly effect at low rpms, right? So adjustment there would not have enough effect to resolve my overheating, right?


Some further comments about my GK:
- bike is all stock as far as I know.
- was previously hesitating, and bogging especailly when cold, much less when warm. Found intake air leaks, replaced intake o-rings (Thanks Macmatic). Now no such problem.
- intake boots and airbox boots seemed soft and plyable, must be they have been replaced sometime in recent history.
- I now see in my manual that the GK main jet should be the #115 and I looked to see the same is listed for the G and GL.
- one reason I like all stock is so I dont have to fuss with carb jets.
.

 

[Billy Ricks]

I think you are probably lean thoughout the entire range. It could be a timing issue, too much advance, but if nothing has occured to change the timing then it would be carbs. Since you got the caps off the pilot circuits adjust each one for the highest idle you can get. If you get more than about 4 turns out then you need to go with a richer pilot. Let's just say if you have a 37.5 then try a 40. If you change the mains it will allow for more fuel at the needle jet and might possibly straighten out the 1/4-3/4 throttle openings. If not then you're going to need to shim needles.

 

[BadBillyB]

A loss of power and an engine getting hotter than normal would suggest the ignition timing or valve timing being off. An exhaust cam off one tooth can cause exactly these symptoms. Since you just got the bike recently, wouldn't hurt to check the position of the cams........BadBillyB

 

[Busafied]

I think you are probably lean thoughout the entire range. It could be a timing issue, too much advance, but if nothing has occured to change the timing then it would be carbs. Since you got the caps off the pilot circuits adjust each one for the highest idle you can get. If you get more than about 4 turns out then you need to go with a richer pilot. Let's just say if you have a 37.5 then try a 40. If you change the mains it will allow for more fuel at the needle jet and might possibly straighten out the 1/4-3/4 throttle openings. If not then you're going to need to shim needles.

Try this first- Looks / sounds too lean to me too.

A loss of power and an engine getting hotter than normal would suggest the ignition timing or valve timing being off. An exhaust cam off one tooth can cause exactly these symptoms. Since you just got the bike recently, wouldn't hurt to check the position of the cams........BadBillyB

Timing could be an issue, cam chain could have slipped one tooth-

Carbs will be your easiest first do, then do your cam timing.

GL Redman-
Ron