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I am afraid to ask this intake boot question

  • Thread starter Thread starter oldslowrunner
  • Start date Start date
O

oldslowrunner

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OK, I have '80 GS1100 with an idle that races when warm - searched & read all I could and figure I need new intake boots and possibly "intake o-rings". My questions:

Suggestions on where to internet order the boots? I have been using Ronnies.com but cannot find the boots on the microfiche.

On my GS1100, the boots appear to connect onto an extension of the cast cylinder. I have searched all of the drawings in my shop manuals and cannot figure out what/where the heck intake o-rings are supposed to be. Please help me as I must be an idiot.

Here's a picture of my bike currently undergoing oil pan surgery to replace a stripped plug. I got it for free from a co-worker's shed where it had sat for 15 years. It only has 28K and was a dependable bike when he parked it (in favor of a new bike). Unfortunately, I found this forum at the tail end of my efforts to resurrect the beast but hey, better late than never! This is my first street bike and has been quite the learning experience - there have been moments (fitting the #$%#@% air cleaner boots onto the carbs comes to mind) when I have sworn that this will also be my last attempt at something like this as well. I am looking forward to the riding experience that so many of you tell of!
 
oldslowrunner said:
OK, I have '80 GS1100 with an idle that races when warm - searched & read all I could and figure I need new intake boots and possibly "intake o-rings". My questions:

Suggestions on where to internet order the boots? I have been using Ronnies.com but cannot find the boots on the microfiche.

On my GS1100, the boots appear to connect onto an extension of the cast cylinder. I have searched all of the drawings in my shop manuals and cannot figure out what/where the heck intake o-rings are supposed to be. Please help me as I must be an idiot.

Here's a picture of my bike currently undergoing oil pan surgery to replace a stripped plug. I got it for free from a co-worker's shed where it had sat for 15 years. It only has 28K and was a dependable bike when he parked it (in favor of a new bike). Unfortunately, I found this forum at the tail end of my efforts to resurrect the beast but hey, better late than never! This is my first street bike and has been quite the learning experience - there have been moments (fitting the #$%#@% air cleaner boots onto the carbs comes to mind) when I have sworn that this will also be my last attempt at something like this as well. I am looking forward to the riding experience that so many of you tell of!
Click to expand...

When you take off the carbs and those little black boots you're gonna see the little intake runners that are bolted onto the cylinder head. You have to remove those and you'll see the O-rings. Becareful though. The screws or bolt (whatever is holding them down) tend to strip. You can reorder then from here: www.cycleorings.com. Its run a by a forum member and they say he has the best O-rings you can buy anywhere. As to where you can find the black intake boots themselves you got me. I still can't find them
 
Lucky him. Then sounds like those little black intake boots are gonna be the culprit
 
There are no O-rings on your bike. If there is an intake leak (which it certainly sounds like there is, there are 4 places to check/verify/repair/replace.

1) Where the carb boot clamps onto the head. Either the clamp is not tight enough or the boot is not fully on. Also, the boot can get hard and refuse to seal.
2) Where the carb boot clamps onto the carb. (See 1 above for places to check).
3) Where the airbox clamps onto the carb. Mine is warped, and we (bwringer and I) had to push the center of the box onto the inner carbs while the other screwed down the clamps. On yours, the pliable piece can also get hard and can be replaced.
4) Where the filter box lid bolts down to the filter box (least likely). It should have an excellent seal. I put duct tape on mine because the lid was no longer present.
 
Thanks to all,

1) & 2) These boots have rounded shoulders inside and I had to use lube to get 'em to slip off and back on and they seemed plenty tight The clamps are the originals, but seem to be functioning fine as well. What's the easiest method to check for leaks around these areas? Someone once told me to spray WD-40 around intakes when the engine is running & if it dies, you got a leak there.

3) The inner two boots fit very poorly and I could only get the top on to the carb - they are barely on at the bottom of the flange. What's the consensus on going to K&N filters (individual fits have to virtually eliminate the chance of a leak there, no)?

4) Why would this matter like the other 3 possibilities? Is it because the airflow in is less restricted? If so, if I switch over to K&N filters, will I have an even worse problem (is that why I have seen references to having to re-jet when going the K&N route)?

"Sometimes I feel like I am parked diagonally in a parallel universe."
 
Ther are two sets of boots, and it sounds like they may be getting confused. The ones between the carb and the engine can be tested for leaking by spraying oil on them. Mine leaked and I fixed the leaks with glue.

I doubt if a small leak in the rear ones, between the carbs and the airbox, would have much effect. You'd just get a little unfiltered air. A big leak could affect the flow, I suppose.
 
Bizcocho said:
Ther are two sets of boots, and it sounds like they may be getting confused. The ones between the carb and the engine can be tested for leaking by spraying oil on them. Mine leaked and I fixed the leaks with glue.

I doubt if a small leak in the rear ones, between the carbs and the airbox, would have much effect. You'd just get a little unfiltered air. A big leak could affect the flow, I suppose.
Click to expand...
Actually, the rear ones between the carbs and the airbox have a HUGE influence on the performance. We did mine a few weeks ago, and we did not get the rear boots on correctly fo the two inside carbs. The bike would not even keep running unless I kept my hand on the throttle and the choke on.
Oldslowrunner, that is your problem, 99% certain. They must go fully on, top and bottom. The inner ones were the guilty party on my bike as well. To solve the problem, it took two people. One person took a long screwdriver and pressed the box onto the carbs from the inside of the airbox (with the filter removed and clamps loosened, of course). The other person verified that the boot was completely seated on the carb, top and bottom, then tightened the clamp. This is easier to do if all clamps, font and back of the carbs, are loose. Do the innner ones first, then the outer ones, then tighten the front clamps on all four carbs.
These bikes are very sensitive to carb lean conditions, which is why even the top of the airbox comes into play. If it is not present and sealed properly, the bike will run lean.
Whatever you do, get it running correctly before even considering K&N pods. They make the bike run even leaner, and are difficult, though not impossible, to jet properly.
 
I spray carb cleaner on the boots and if the idle lowers you have a leak. Do this on the airbox boots also.
I like the K&Ns because it makes carb removal a snap but you do have to drill out the slides and I recommend a Dynojet jet kit.
 
chef1366 said:
I spray carb cleaner on the boots and if the idle lowers you have a leak. Do this on the airbox boots also.
I like the K&Ns because it makes carb removal a snap but you do have to drill out the slides and I recommend a Dynojet jet kit.
Click to expand...

CHEF what do you mean drill out the slides. Can you explain further please?

Cheers

Don
 
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