Installing dynojet stage 3 on gs1100ez 1982

[Guest]

I replaced my factory exhausts with a 4 in 1 vance and hines on my 1982 Suzuki GS1100EZ recently. I also purchased a DynoJet Stage 3 kit which I intend to install. I am confused as to #4 of the instructions provided as the mixture screw head is visible. Do I procede onto it's adjustment without any need to drill anything?
Instruction #4 reads....... 'Carefully turn the mixture screw clockwise until lightly seated, then back out 2 1/2 turns'.
Is there any other steps that will be needed to ensure proper installation?
Do I need to replace the pilot air jets ( DH160 ) that are deemed optional?
Thanks for advice.

 

[glib]

I replaced my factory exhausts with a 4 in 1 vance and hines on my 1982 Suzuki GS1100EZ recently. I also purchased a DynoJet Stage 3 kit which I intend to install. I am confused as to #4 of the instructions provided as the mixture screw head is visible. Do I procede onto it's adjustment without any need to drill anything?
Instruction #4 reads....... 'Carefully turn the mixture screw clockwise until lightly seated, then back out 2 1/2 turns'.
Is there any other steps that will be needed to ensure proper installation?
Do I need to replace the pilot air jets ( DH160 ) that are deemed optional?
Thanks for advice.

If the mixture screw is visible then the plug had been previously removed so you can follow the instructions as you have quoted.

I did not need to replace the pilot air jets in my GS1100ED with pod filters and V&H exhaust. You did not mention pod filters. They would be a more likely reason to go Stage 3. Stage 3 worked well with K&Ns but with the cheapo pods, not so much.

 

[Guest]

Thanks Glib. I am using a single unit K & N air filter ( not pods ) In other words , in my case, I needn't replace the pilot air jets?
With the pilot air jets replaced, the bike wouldn't start.
too rich a mixture or insufficient air intake?
Thanks.

 

[glib]

Thanks Glib. I am using a single unit K & N air filter ( not pods ) In other words , in my case, I needn't replace the pilot air jets?
With the pilot air jets replaced, the bike wouldn't start.
too rich a mixture or insufficient air intake?
Thanks.

I would, according to the instructions, start with Stage 1 with the stock airbox with K&N filter, rather than Stage 3. In either case I doubt you will have to replace the pilot jets. If you go straight to Stage 3 with the stock airbox you may end up too rich.

 

[Guest]

I am using a single unit K & N air filter ( not pods )

Do you have the full airbox with a K&N filter in it or the back half of the airbox removed and replaced by a single large K&N filter attached to the front half of the airbox that attaches to the carbs? They aren't the same thing and need to be jetted differently.


Mark

 

[Guest]

Mine is with the full air box and a K&N filter inside. So far I haven't ventured to leaving the air box cover off. but using the Stage 3 with this set up is too rich. In fact the bike wouldn't even fire up.
I will go for Stage 1 with replaced pilot jets ( cause they are already in ) and air box closed. THen depending on spark plug conditions, try with cover off, and if necessary putting back original pilot jets.

 

[Guest]

The engine starts easily however falters at around 3500 rpm where engine speed flattens before with further revving of the engine, engine speed picks up again.

 

[glib]

The engine starts easily however falters at around 3500 rpm where engine speed flattens before with further revving of the engine, engine speed picks up again.

How does the behavior change with the choke on?

 

[Guest]

With the air box lid off, same behavior, falters at 3500rpm. After some coaxing for about 5 minutes of controlled revving, the rev range improves a bit to around 4500rpm. In my part of the world warming up is practically unnecessary.

 

[Guest]

Maybe some could tell me, generally what is the setup like using Stage 1 .what parts that actually need to be replaced and what don't. I am using 4-1 V&H exhaust with standard airbox and a K&N air filter installed inside. Thanks, the bike hasn't been on the road for 2 months now and am itching to ride. Thanks a lot.

 

[glib]

Maybe some could tell me, generally what is the setup like using Stage 1 .what parts that actually need to be replaced and what don't. I am using 4-1 V&H exhaust with standard airbox and a K&N air filter installed inside. Thanks, the bike hasn't been on the road for 2 months now and am itching to ride. Thanks a lot.

Stage one involves changing the needles and setting them at the third groove from the top-- and main jets to DJ114 with the kit--and well, here:


STAGE ONE INSTRUCTIONS

3133.001
1. Remove vacuum slides from carbs. Remove stock needle and
spacers, noting order of assembly (Fig.A). Using the drill bit provided
(DD #32) enlarge the slide lift holes (Fig. A).
Do not drill the needle hole.
(SO DON'T DRILL UNTIL YOU ARE SURE YOU ARE DRILLING THE CORRECT HOLE--IT'S OFF CENTER--NOT THE NEEDLE HOLE)

2. Install the Dynojet needles on groove #3 from the top. Use all stock
spacers (Fig. A). Install the small Dynojet washers above the e-clip.
After installing the slides in the carb be sure to check slide movement
manually.

3. Remove the stock main jets and replace with Dynojet main jets
provided. If you are running the stock exhaust install the DJ110s. If you
are running an aftermarket exhaust or slip-ons with high flowing baffles
use the DJ114s. Be sure that the jet you are changing is the main jet.
(SO YOU'LL BE USING THE DJ114s)

4. Locate the fuel mixture plug (Fig. B). If you see a screw head atFig.B then proceed to the adjusting procedure. (THAT'S YOU) With the 5/32 drill bit
provided carefully drill through the plug.

NOTE:
The mixture screw is directly underneath this plug, be ready to pull back
on the drill the instant you break through. Use screw provided to secure
and remove this plug. Carefully turn the mixture screw clockwise until lightly
seated, then back out 2.5 turns.

Those are the instructions based on the setup you described. Let us know how it worked.
Gary

 

[Guest]

Stage one involves changing the needles and setting them at the third groove from the top-- and main jets to DJ114 with the kit--and well, here:
Followed these istructions and with the air box lid closed, bike fired up and ran well, however needs time to warmup and stabilise at rpm of 1100. Header extreme right, is yellowing though. Is mixture too rich? Yesterday, only one cylinder fired up. Removed plugs and found them black and wet.