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K&S universal turn switch & 1981 gs650gl

  • Thread starter Thread starter Googledave
  • Start date Start date
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Googledave

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Hello all, does anyone know where to hook up the red white and red wire that comes from the rectifier and the white and green wire that comes from the generator.... Also the horn has an orange, a green and and ground wire, but universal switch only has a horn main pin connection and a horn ground pin connection... Don't really know how to hook that up either... I bought the switch through dime city cycles and is a super quality switch and looks really clean!! Thanks for the help!!
 
Sure we know where those wires went when they left japan, but you need to do some reading about common charging issues on these bikes.
Basically, you are going to forget about those two wires- believe it or not! Your stator needs to have all 3 output wires go direct to thr r/r - this is one of many,many steps to get a reliable charging system. Here's some reading

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-Charging-System-Health&p=1138531#post1138531

edit. Here's a wiring diagram. Click thru

https://sites.google.com/a/dslextreme.com/cbsaunders/images/1981GS650GLX.Jpg?attredirects=0
 
Fantastic article!!!! Thanks!!!! My issue is that I purchased an aftermarket turn/ headlight switch and it came with a nine pin connector and the gs' connector has 12... So the new switch doesn't have a connection for the gray , white and red, and white and blue... The old switch has those three wires connected to the headlight switch body..... I know the two whites are for the stator and generator and the gray is backlight; just don't know how to connect them to the new switch/ harness or how to bypass them.... Thanks for your quick response and that great article!!
 
In an ideal situation, you would remove the 9 pins from the new connector and put them into the appropriate areas in the old connector.

Next-best would be to make an adapter that would plug into both ends.

A last-resort solution would be to cut the wires on the old connector, then solder and heat shrink them to the wires they are supposed to mate with on the new switch. That way, you still have the stock 12-pin connector, in case you find an OEM switch.

.
 
Yes, that is actually what I've been doing... But, the new switch has nine wires and the original switch has 12 wires... I figured out where all but three should connect.. White-red, white-green and the gray... I know what they are according to the wiring diagram just don't know how to hook them up to the new switch or how to bypass them.. Thanks!
 
OMG!!!! Thank you thank you thank you!! All of a sudden the clouds part and I see the light!!! It totally makes sense now!!!! I've looked and read everything and all of a sudden BAM!!!!!!! Thank you all!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Ok.... So it seems my brain has succombed to what seems to be miles of wire, endless soldering and this infernal universal switch.... Ok, so, I have three wires coming from the stator; yellow, white and blue, white and green.. There are four wires from the r/r; three yellow and one red... Am I supposed to connect the yellow w/g and w/b to the three yellow from the R/r? I'm totally confused... Original h/l switch had the w/g from stator connected to it and the w/r connected from switch to r/r... Right now I have switch connected in, I abandoned both w/g and w/r and no lights or turn signals... Also the gray wire that's supposed to be the backlight wire; can I splice that into the h/l main? Thanks again!!
 
I bet you wished that you just got a used switch off ebay and avoided those soldering fumes!
The three stator wires go direct to those three yellow wires on the r/r in any order. The red wire on r/r goes same place old r/r red wire went- into harness (most likely). But now you need to ground the r/r housing to battery negstive and frame - have you stumbled across single point grounding stuff on here?? More reading!
wiring the stator outputs direct to r/r still lets on/off headlight switch work as before, so don't blame that for lights or turn signals not functioning. Review the wiring diagram and your soldering

https://sites.google.com/a/dslextreme.com/cbsaunders/images/1981GS650GLX.Jpg?attredirects=0
 
Lolol, yeah pretty much!!! I'm in the middle of building a scrambler out of a pretty neglected gs650gl... The original switch had been broken and I decided on a cleaner looking switch, ha! ....So far so good until I hit the wiring..... Electrical has always been a weakness of mine on every bike or car I've done but this seriously is making me nuts...... I love a challenge but getting an electrical engineering degree to hook up a "simple" switch is ridiculous!! This is my first gs and have to honestly say I love this bike!!! My wife keeps reminding me that after it's finished it's up for sale but I think this ones a keeper!! If I could just grasp the electrical aspect of this bike I'll feel better!! Lol. one more thing, any ideas about the gray wire that suzuki has as a backlight? Thanks again!!! Oh and yes I've already grounded the r/r to battery and frame!! Thanks for the great advice!!
 
Looking at that wiring disgram that I'm pushing, it seems that when headlight is "on" , the backlight in speedo, tach, fuel gauge lights up. Of course, in USA headlights are theoretically "on" at all times, so the backlight will be on all times too, unless you have other plans!
while I'm here, does your original broken switch still have the two slider knobs on it?
 
Yes I still have the original switch.. It does have an on/off but with a block so as not to be able to turn the light off.. So I now have hi beam and low beam but no turn and no horn....so I think my new issue is with the orange wire and gray wire...... It looks to me that power is coming from those two wires when ign is on... Am I right? If so, I'm having total vapor lock as to what they connect to on this universal switch...
 
Remember that turn signals work off different fuse than headlights. Blow up that colored wiring diagram bigger size and print it out - you'll find it comes in handy again and again.
Tell your wife that this is a fun economical bike- running well, it will get 55 mpg with power to spare.
 
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