Larger Rear Sprocket?

[Anonymous]

I have a 1978 GS750. It is full dress and I have put a lot of work into it. It runs great, but like a race bike! I would like to gear it higher for touring. I feel like I'm going to blow the engine on the freeway! Would changing to a larger rear sprocket help and how would I know what sprocket to use?

 

[robinjo]

For lowering the revs at speed you either fit a bigger front or a larger rear sprocket, fitting a larger rear sprocket will increase the revs at the same speed.

 

[Anonymous]

Larger Sprocket

Larger Sprocket

Yes, of course I meant smaller sprocket. Thanks. Does anyone know the best way to match bolt patterns, without having to buy every 630 size sprocket with less than 41 teeth?

 

[Anonymous]

Re: Larger Sprocket

Re: Larger Sprocket

Yes, of course I meant smaller sprocket. Thanks. Does anyone know the best way to match bolt patterns, without having to buy every 630 size sprocket with less than 41 teeth?

as long as you want to reduce the rpms why dont you just change the front sprocket its a lot less work and cheaper --just add one tooth to the transmission sprocket--i have 3 transmission sprockets for my 1100e and have enjoyed the smoothness of having one more tooth on the front many times-- it will be easy on the chain as compared to some of us lowering the number of teeth on the front sprocket

 

[Anonymous]

Bigger front sprockets....

Bigger front sprockets....

Watch it when you get larger front sprockets, sometimes clearances can be a problem if you get too carried away, like chain kissing some spots or ????
I would suggest a bigger front AND a smaller rear but not too much. You can calculate the RPMs if you have all the numbers to crunch.
Rick.......

 

[Anonymous]

clearances will surely be aproblem if you try to got oo high in the front sprocket --usually one tooth on the front will do what you want--i think that i read that one tooth on the front will give you a diference of 500 rpm at a particular speed( i dont remember for sure)) it was in one of the ask greg questions on cope racing website --going too high in the gear ratio department will cause other problems also--stick with a modest change whether you decide to go for a front or rear sprocket--also by doing it on the rear sprocket you can really fine tune your end result--so maybe you would like to do both as was mentioned before--perhaps try the one tooth over on the front first and then add or remove from the rear as you see fit-in most cases one tooth larger on the front is about equal to 3 teeth on the rear but i have seen bikes with small rear sprockets that would definitely make a liar out of me---divide the number of teeth on the front into the number of teeth on the rear for the best results in finding the effect of sprocket change----good luck

 

[Anonymous]

gs1100e sprocket

gs1100e sprocket

I just purchased a 83 1100e and I was wondering if anyone knows what the stock sprocket sizes are. Took it on the highway last week and it revs to darn high. Or if someone has changed out their sprockets what size did you go to?
First time post, found this site to be very helpful.

Thanks

 

[Anonymous]

Re: gs1100e sprocket

Re: gs1100e sprocket

I just purchased a 83 1100e and I was wondering if anyone knows what the stock sprocket sizes are. Took it on the highway last week and it revs to darn high. Or if someone has changed out their sprockets what size did you go to?
First time post, found this site to be very helpful.

Thanks

I just went out to the garage and counted the teeth for you---i couldnt find the info in my book and i am sure it is in there--but any how the stock gear has 15 teeth and naturally my 1 tooth over countershaft sprocket has 16--is a real pain to take the cover off just to count teeth---

:lol: :lol: :lol: I have both sprockets hanging on a nail in the garage--i am presently running one tooth under sized-the rear sprocket i dont remember but i think its 42 teeth(that i am not positive of)) did you know that in late late 1982 and on , Suzuki started to weld a couple of the problem crankpins-----you do not have a fully welded crank but at least its an improvement on previous years--you will love the bike as you already know

 

[Anonymous]

hey Scotty did Suzuki weld on all the GS models or just the 1100`s ?? actually thinking of pulling mine and getting it done 8O

 

[Anonymous]

hey Scotty did Suzuki weld on all the GS models or just the 1100`s ?? actually thinking of pulling mine and getting it done 8O

Beats me--they had problems with some of the one thousands also --but all i know is what i read on site and was told by some speed shop owners--what year and model do you have maybe i can write to someone and ask

 

[Anonymous]

1982 750EZ........LOL

 

[Anonymous]

1982 750EZ........LOL

well if Suzuki only started welding cranks in the last couple of months of 1982 then you probably dont have a welded crank-BUT i didnt know that the 750s had a crank twisting problem--i believe it was the mass of the cranks on the larger cc models that twisted and NOTunder acceleration but at the instant the throttle was backed off after all out runnig--I dont know for sure--I am just parroting this information??

 

[moto_dan]

hey Scotty did Suzuki weld on all the GS models or just the 1100`s ?? actually thinking of pulling mine and getting it done 8O

I think the crank on 16v 750's are single piece and run in plain bearings. The 1100's run in roller bearings requiring multi piece cranks to facilitate bearing replacement. :?: So the 750(16v) cranks have nothing to weld together. Check out bikebandit.com for comparison of the two styles crank. This link is for the '81 1100
http://bikebandit.com/PartsBandit/o...odel_dept_id=109180&model_dept_name=GS1100(X)

 

[Anonymous]

To increase torque for low end grunt you either reduce your front or increase your rear to change the drive ratio. On a standard 630 16 tooth front sprocket reducing on tooth is the same as adding 2.5 teeth to the rear. This will increase RPM at speed and prduce more torque. On the down side it will lower you top speed. You must give a little to gain a little.

 

[Anonymous]

I copied this fom the home page topic of ENGINE

Why is the GS engine so utterly bullet-proof?
Basically, there are three aspects that set the GS engine apart from its contemporaries:

The first is the fact that the crankshaft runs in roller bearings, which is quite complex (and expensive) to build, and which caters for a long engine life and for high resistance to uneven or higher load on the crankshaft. (Note: this goes for most models, but the GS450 engines are a noted exception, they aren't blessed with roller bearings)

The second is that the lubrication is basically designed as a low-pressure job, which does not suffer as much from poor
pressure, cold engine oil and clogged channels.

The third is that, contrary to contemporary habits, there is a lot of reserve built into the design. The market demand for space and weight saving was not as large as it is in these FireBlade and GSXR750W days, and so the engineers of these bikes didn't have to drill iron out of the design to make the bikes marketable...

Written By: Peter Huppertz


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Related reading:
An article on the history of the classic GS motorcycles that "The GS Resources" concentrates on.