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Making It Easier To Select Neutral

  • Thread starter Thread starter Suzuki_Don
  • Start date Start date
On my 1982 1100GL rolling about an inch backwards while lifting from first usually does it. While rolling to a stop if I drop from 2nd to N is the easiest on this one and the 1980 1100E
 
You can get a stiffer spring at any hardware..take the original with you to match diameter and slightly longer length and youll be good to go. May cost you 35 cents versus 5 bucks from Suzuki....with the shipping added in.
 
UncleMike said:
So, how would one go about measuring the general spring rate of an item that small - you know, so they could order a stronger one for their ... oh to just pick a model at random - 1986 Suzuki GS 1150 E (in red)?
Click to expand...

Bathroom scales or other smaller scales can check spring rate.

For example, using a measuring stick.. place the spring on the scales and take an initial height measurement, then press down one inch( or any convenient distance). look at the scales reading in pounds or ounces.

this gives pound per inch or ounces per 1/4 inch or whatever...

Try another spring of the same internal and external dimensions to find a stiffer one!!

a much smaller scale will be needed , but this is how I used to dial in rear shock springs of unknown manufacture like when i changed stuff around!
 
barnbiketom said:
Bathroom scales or other smaller scales can check spring rate.

For example, using a measuring stick.. place the spring on the scales and take an initial height measurement, then press down one inch( or any convenient distance). look at the scales reading in pounds or ounces.

this gives pound per inch or ounces per 1/4 inch or whatever...

Try another spring of the same internal and external dimensions to find a stiffer one!!

a much smaller scale will be needed , but this is how I used to dial in rear shock springs of unknown manufacture like when i changed stuff around!
Click to expand...

Sometimes I'm really embarrassed that I don't think of something sooner. Elegant solution, well done!
 
Sorry for resurrecting an old post but I have just been out for a ride (GS1000g) and experienced great difficulty in selecting neutral with the bike running, turn off and it pops straight into place.
On Dons post no.7 he shows a photo of the plungers position on his bike, well I have looked underneath mine and cannot see a similar housing, anybody able to tell me where it is?
Many thanks in advance.
 
Nessism said:
As for difficulty with finding neutral is concern, first thing to try is reducing the amount of clutch lever free play (tighten the cable), thus increase how far the clutch disengages. If this doesn't work you may need new clutch plates. My second GS1000 had difficulty finding neutral from a stop, but replacing the clutch discs resolved the problem. If you go this route, replace both the steel and friction discs, or at least measure the steel discs to make sure they are flat. Even a small amount of warp can make the clutch drag enough to make finding neutral difficult.

Good luck and hope this helps.
Click to expand...
On my 1980 GS1000G adjusting the cable as noted above made the difference. It's a free "mod" and it may correct the problem.
 
A cheap or ready to fail cable that's stretchy can also lead to some drag with the clutch pulled in.
 
Brand new cable adjusted perfectly, there's no drag, that's not it. It needs a longer or stronger spring.

After 35 years under compression they mostly all do.
 
Thanks all for the quick replies, I will re-adjust cable as I fitted new one last week, maybe it has stretched?
 
My impression of all this is that there are 2 different problems being discussed:

1) It is 'too easy' to go from 1 into 2 (or 2 into 1) and you overshoot the Neutral indent. That is the issue being resolved by the heavier spring and the intended topic of this thread.

2) It is difficult to get the transmission into neutral - for example, there may be a lot resistance felt in the shift lever requiring more effort to shift, and therefore either missing or overshooting neutral. This problem is worked around by people shifting while the gears are moving. A heavier spring does not address this, as this problem is most likely related to the condition of the clutch and linkages.
 
And clean the sender at the side of the cases. While its off to clean the contacts, give the little spring a small stretch. This makes the plunger get a good solid contact when it touches the spot on the engine side of the assembly.
 
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