Motorcycle shop rant and r/r and stator wiring quick questions.

[Guest]

Direct evidence that a ohm meter is worthless for diagnosing a stator.

This was stator in bike when I bought it. I switched it out to a Caltric a few months ago. I rewired the stator to the R/R, now with simple battery tests, I'm getting wild fluctuations in the voltage reads (engine running). Tried 2 different meters, same thing. I wish this was indicative of a bad stator. I'd quit farting with it till I order a new one.

Oh, and I can't do any AC tests as my meter only goes as low as 200 volts.

Let me clarify my wiring of stator to rectifier. I have the shunt type r/r so I connected the stator wires directly to the r/r wires, then into connector. I'm thinking this is wrong and the statements that tell me to do that are for the series? type regulator.

 

[gearhead13]

Your meter only has to go to 70 VAC or so IIRC

 

[Guest]

Your meter only has to go to 70 VAC or so IIRC

I'm assuming since the meter says 200 and 500, it will not register anything below those settings. Am i wrong?

 

[Guest]

yes, you are wrong. those are the max voltages.

 

[posplayr]

If I have a 400 hp engine, can I only run it flat out with 400+ hp getting delivered?

Same with a 200V meter range; can I only measure things above 200 V?

 

[Guest]

The more I work on the bike, the more I see that it's not that complicated. I just ordered a new Ricks stator and regulator, so I'll just start over. It's not draining the battery when sitting, only at high rpm's so it's not a short, and the only things that seem to be connected to charging are the battery, which I determined is good, the stator, or the R/R. I'm sure there are other switches, relays, and grounds in the system I can look at once I get these two other items changed. Mostly what I've read on this site regarding charging issues are those 3 main parts. I think I have been over-analyzing things.

I repair copiers for a living and essentially, when there's a problem, I get the code, look it up in my Edocs, follow instructions and change a part. Very little to no time is spent using meters. It's worked pretty good for me so far.

 

[posplayr]

the more i work on the bike, the more i see that it's not that complicated. I just ordered a new ricks stator and regulator, so i'll just start over. It's not draining the battery when sitting, only at high rpm's so it's not a short, and the only things that seem to be connected to charging are the battery, which i determined is good, the stator, or the r/r. I'm sure there are other switches, relays, and grounds in the system i can look at once i get these two other items changed. Mostly what i've read on this site regarding charging issues are those 3 main parts. I think i have been over-analyzing things.

I repair copiers for a living and essentially, when there's a problem, i get the code, look it up in my edocs, follow instructions and change a part. Very little to no time is spent using meters. It's worked pretty good for me so far.

mistake...................

 

[Nessism]

Get a SH775 R/R and a jumper harness from Triumph. There are about 100 different threads about the best R/R for these old bikes and a Ricks ain't it.

 

[Guest]

Kept the stator from Rick's but cancelled the R/R and ordered this kit. Yeah, I know, the connectors and such are pretty inexpensive, but I want to ride, not hunt down any more parts.

 

[Nessism]

That will do it. Kind of expensive is all.

When I recently need an R/R I bought a Rick's. I'm not positive they are better per say, but they have a solid reputation and I'm happy with the purchase.

 

[jsandidge]

That's a good choice. You will be happily charging. A little pricey, but everything's included for an easy install.

 

[Guest]

That will do it. Kind of expensive is all.

When I recently need an R/R I bought a Rick's. I'm not positive they are better per say, but they have a solid reputation and I'm happy with the purchase.

Okay, didn't you just say they AREN'T a good choice?

Get a SH775 R/R and a jumper harness from Triumph. There are about 100 different threads about the best R/R for these old bikes and a Ricks ain't it.

I agree about the price, but I'm really tired of dickin' with this bike. Hope this fixes it once and for all.

 

[Nessism]

Okay, didn't you just say they AREN'T a good choice?

I agree about the price, but I'm really tired of dickin' with this bike. Hope this fixes it once and for all.

The Rick's R/R is the bad choice. Rick's stators are excellent.

 

[allojohn]

I agree about the price, but I'm really tired of dickin' with this bike. Hope this fixes it once and for all.

Stick with it Deuce, the stator & R/R are the weakest things about these machines. Get it sorted and you'll be fixed up forever!

 

[Guest]

Stick with it Deuce, the stator & R/R are the weakest things about these machines. Get it sorted and you'll be fixed up forever!

Thanks for the encouragement. I certainly don't remember these issues with my Kawasaki 1000. However, the bike was only 7 years old when I sold it. No time for things to start screwing up on it.

The Rick's R/R is the bad choice. Rick's stators are excellent.

I figured maybe you hadn't had your coffee yet.

 

[Guest]

I got the new parts installed today. Pretty straight forward and the R/R came with everything to connect it properly. I also learned that you can take the battery box out to remove the R/R versus disconnecting shocks and dropping the swing arm to give room to get to it. D'oh!

Here is the 300 mile Caltric stator next to the new Rick's model. I tried to do battery tests, but my meter still jumps around, so I have to figure what's up with that. However, the high voltage reads were about 2 volts (from 12.3 to about 14.5) higher than I was getting pre-install.

I rode it up the street and back, but my water heater crapped out today, and the wife was bugging me to go to Firehouse Subs, so I'll piddle with it during the week.

 

[posplayr]

I got the new parts installed today. Pretty straight forward and the R/R came with everything to connect it properly. I also learned that you can take the battery box out to remove the R/R versus disconnecting shocks and dropping the swing arm to give room to get to it. D'oh!

Here is the 300 mile Caltric stator next to the new Rick's model. I tried to do battery tests, but my meter still jumps around, so I have to figure what's up with that. However, the high voltage reads were about 2 volts (from 12.3 to about 14.5) higher than I was getting pre-install.

I rode it up the street and back, but my water heater crapped out today, and the wife was bugging me to go to Firehouse Subs, so I'll piddle with it during the week.

Wow that stator got real hot fast; put the Series R/R and check back in in 300 miles and see how it looks.

 

[Guest]

New SH775 installed as well. The kit I ordered came with everything to connect stator to it and line with fuse to battery. Do you mean pull the cover back off and check stator or check voltage in 300 miles?