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My carb rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter Texas
  • Start date Start date
Texas said:
Ok, the heads are gone n the two of the air screws. I've made a choice to bypass them! I think that would be better than possible damage I may do. They are factory set and I never got them to move. When I dip them I will keep them above and out of the dip . Everything is below them anyway.
Click to expand...
Actually, you might be better off getting a spare set of carbs. While the screws are 'factory set', it does not mean they are right. If you keep those jets out of the dip, you will not be cleaning any of the idle mixture passages, and they are the ones that will be most noticed as they affect how the bike runs at idle and low throttle openings. In other words, most of your in-town running.

.
 
moving on

moving on

I have found other carb cleaning sources that say the air screws don't get to much dirt because they are above the float line. I think its worth the chance. Removing them again not that hard. The two I cleaned were really clean, and it ran good before it was stored.
 
moving on

moving on

I have found other carb cleaning sources that say the air screws don't get to much dirt because they are above the float line. I think its worth the chance. Removing them again not that hard. The two I cleaned were really clean, and it ran good before it was stored.
 
Texas said:
I have found other carb cleaning sources that say the air screws don't get to much dirt because they are above the float line. I think its worth the chance. Removing them again not that hard. The two I cleaned were really clean, and it ran good before it was stored.
Click to expand...

If you think it's worth the chance...go for it. Keeping in mind that, if, down the road you have the problems stated earlier, that this is your likely culprit.:)
 
main air jets

main air jets

I noticed that my main air jets have a number stamped on them , I think it reads 150 but it could say 750 . this puzzles me , they are suppose to be 1.6 . Does this stamped number mean anything ? Has someone changed the jet ? Do I need to find new ones ?
 
Texas said:
I have found other carb cleaning sources that say the air screws don't get to much dirt because they are above the float line.
Click to expand...
That might be, but they are not just "air" screws.
They actually control how much of a pre-set mixture is allowed to get to the intake throat.
The mixture is controlled by the pilot fuel screw (in the float bowl, next to the main jet) and the pilot air screw ( in the side of the carb's intake throat).

.
 
carb rubber plugs ?

carb rubber plugs ?

What do the rubber plugs inside the fuel bowl do ? Do I need to replace them ? Has anyone ever left them out ? 1981 GS 550-T
 
Texas said:
What do the rubber plugs inside the fuel bowl do ? Do I need to replace them ? Has anyone ever left them out ? 1981 GS 550-T
Click to expand...
The rubber plugs inside the fuel bowl control fuel flow. With the plugs installed, the pilot jet and needle jet have to draw fuel through the main jet first. Without the plugs installed, the pilot jet can draw straight from the float bowl, but so can the needle jet, and the passage that the rubber plug covers is a LOT bigger than the main jet, so you will run really, really rich.

Yes, you need to replace them if they don't fit snuggly. See above for why.

Yes, I have left them out. That's how I found out what they do and how important they are.

.
 
rubber plugs

rubber plugs

Ok, I kinda thought they were there for a reason, just thought I'd ask. Yes I'm very blessed to still be here and I. Thank God everyday I'm enjoying life!
 
bent float arm

bent float arm

The PO adjusted the floats by bending the arm of the floats. how do I now adjust the floats?
 
Hey Texas, it's better to use one thread, not two to ask the same questions. Regarding float height, the other thread has has your answer...and you have already seen it based on the date of your various posts in the thread.

Straighten the float arms back to flat and adjust the float height at the tab.

You also might want to fabricate a fuel level gauge like the Suzuki manual recommends using - this way you will know for a fact if the fuel level is correct now. If you don't have a manual, find Basscliff and download one there.

Good luck.
 
double post

double post

Yeah, ok sorry about that. Did not see a answer in the other post, just checked, still don't. I guess I was over anxious for the answer. Which I thank you for.
 
Wow it started !

Wow it started !

Finished the rebuild replaced o-rings , two floats , intake o-rings , fixed air box , carb dip , bench sync and new gas lines. And even though it should have started I was still shocked that it did.
 
Running fine

Running fine

Well I've rode my 1981 GS 550T 5 miles I've adjusted the master idle and i'm very pleased with it so far. I think that my decision to forgo the removal of the two stuck air screws has proven to be correct . The air screws were still set at the factory setting and I actually matched the other two air screws that I did remove to the same setting by matching the depth my cleaning tool would reach inside the air hole thats inside the carb & below the air screw. All the major circuits were cleaned by dipping up to the air screw thus keeping the rubber o-ring that is on the bottom of the air screw out of the dip. To me this was a better path than destroying the threads or the side of the carb or possibly the complete carb trying to remove them. :D
 
I'm a little late on this, but yes, you need the rubber plugs. I read everything I could about rebuilding my gs550t carbs but missed that important concept. I pulled them more times than I care to admit before finally figuring out the problem.

Now you need to synch the carbs. Not hard, just need the proper tool. You'll be amazed how much better the bike runs after synching.

BTW I sent you a PM
 
Last edited:
stuck air screws / no problem

stuck air screws / no problem

Ok, put quite a few miles on my carb rebuild. Shes running great! the air screws that were stuck were no problem. I decided to leave them alone and it worked out to be right. Don't hurry to destroy your carb threads, try this first!!!
 
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