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My CV's don't match CV writeup @ pilot

  • Thread starter Thread starter ThrottleBack
  • Start date Start date
T

ThrottleBack

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I'm thinking the tube going across on my CV contains the pilot (appears to be a cap with a hole in the center?) but since that is not what the write up shows I'm checking here...

Ignore the blue on the carb mouth. I set them on a sheet of foam not thinking and the gas had melted it in that small spot. It's nothing a PO did.

20130604_114232_zpse6c7c77b.jpg
 
The idle mixture screw on your model is on the side of the body.
 
just to be clear, b/c i can only drill once. The arrow on the pic i just made is where i need to drill, and that is the cap? Each has a tiny hole so i may not have to drill.
 
i do now....lol. I already printed all 70 pages of that one damn
 
Hi,

I already printed all 70 pages of that one
Click to expand...

That's OK. There is still a lot of information in both CV write-ups that is good to know while working on your carbs.

Yes, the idle mixture (pilot) screw is under that cap.

attachment.php




Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Stick a fork in it and pull it out.....

or better yet...

put a drywall screw in it or something similar and pull it out....
 
You may have to use a pilot drill to get the drywall screw in there, but be careful. That aluminum plug is only about 3mm thick and there is only about 3mm of room behind it before you hit the mixture screw.

.
 
I drilled the caps and got them out NP, but there is another issue. The pilot screws back almost all the way out then just spin and do not finish coming out, this is on both carbs. I tried pb blaster, tried a dental pic incase dirt was stopping it, tried a wire brush, nadda.
 
Open the hole up a bit at the end with a drill bit.
Don't touch the threads.
 
I may have to shelf till next week, not sure i can be that precise left handed. lemme take a second look
 
Cleaned up the tube, not the issue.

chuck hahn said its the oring sticking. He told me to heat the tube, then while fresh hot get some pb in there and work the jet back and forth to lube the oring and back it out.

that didn't work either.
 
tossed #1 in the freezer. See if contracting the metal helps me out
 
"WHAT" worked? I suggested then heating becuase my experience has been that then orings get brick hard AND seal themselves to then tubes and needles..making them nearlyn impossable to get to turn.

Maybe the combo of heat and freezing cracked the seal? In any case, gald you got one to budge. As youve seen, they can be a stubborn thing at times.

I always dab a Qtip in some grease and swab the tubes and a little on the orings before reinstalling the needles. Keeps them free and easy to fine tune later down the road.
 
Now I'm thinking while they are off, since theres a few weeks till i can ride anyway, I may paint them to match the color i'm going to paint the tank.
 
So I soaked both 24 hours. One in dip, one in straight purple power. They are both clean (not enough yet im ANAL) but honestly the PP one came out better and the stuff is much less harsh on me and the planet.
 
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