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Need tech info 83 1100E

  • Thread starter Thread starter steve lebow
  • Start date Start date
S

steve lebow

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Need tech info on how to rebuild my 83 1100E forks.
It has new fork tubes which were installed last year by the previous owner which are 1 inch shorter than stock. i purchased new progressive springs and seals, but am not sure how to pull these apart. also what weight oil should i use.
thanks.
 
Id do a search. Lots of good info on that project. If those are not stock forks youll need to figure out what they are to be able to order the right parts. Are the parts you have now the right ones ? Can you call the PO ?
 
all stock except

all stock except

all the fork parts are stock except the top tubes which should not make a difference
 
Actually, the length of the tubes will make a difference. If Progressive suggests a spacer to adjust preload, its length is based on the stock fork length. If the forks are shorter, the spacer should be, too. If the recommended spacer is less than an inch, you won't have to worry about installing one at all, but the springs will be compressed a bit by the shorter forks, raising the preload.

What oil to use? Depends on your weight, riding habits and desire for comfort.
Progressive usually recommends 15w fork oil. I highlighted fork oil because some people have said they could only find 5w-30 or 10w-30, but not any 15w. They are looking at motor oil, not fork oil. Not the same stuff. you find fork oil at the bike shop, not Auto Zone or Wal-Mart. If you happen to have an enhanced gravitational attraction or constantly ride with one foot peg or the other dragging the pavement, that will be a good choice. I have 10w in my forks for a bit more comfort, while retaining good control.

How much oil? This one is going to be tricky, because of your non-stock forks. Most specs call for a specific amount of oil, which will put the level a given number of inches below the top of the compressed fork tube. Since you have shorter tubes, that level will need to be adjusted. Problem with that is, that leaves a smaller volume of air above the oil. This will affect the spring rate a bit by giving a higher spring rate quicker as the volume decreases when the wheel hit a bump. I think that would be better than lowering the oil level, though. Lowering the oil level might allow the damper rod to move through air before it hits the oil, which will really screw up damping smoothness. :oops:


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