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Need to be prepared

  • Thread starter Thread starter KRISTI'SGS550
  • Start date Start date
K

KRISTI'SGS550

Guest
I now have the carbs dipped and ready to put back into the bike. I want to know what all I need to do to the carbs before I install them. As some of you know I tore them down, dipped them in Chem Clean, replaced missing, broken and bad parts (including O-rings). Now they are back together and reasy to go.
I have read on here about bench synching, but I am really unsure to that process. Any information on this will be very helpful. I could use a 10 to 20 step process of before the carbs are in the bike and a 10 to 20 step process of what to do after the carbs are in the bike. I have a colortune and a carbtune for when the carbs are in, but I want to make sure I get everything done before I install them.
Can anyone help?

#1 ?

Cory
 
No 10- or 20-step process here, just a brief (I hope) description of the process.

#3 carb is your 'master' carb, everything else is adjusted from that. Find the adjuster screws and locknuts between the carbs. Rotate the master idle speed adjuster screw until there is some space under the throttle butterfly. You can use a straightened-out paper clip as a size reference. Adjust the idle screw until the paper clip slides through the opening with just a little resistance. (Note that this will feel much like adjusting the valves.) Use the adjuster screws to get #2 to match the opening on #3, then get #1 to match the other two. Finally, adjust #4 to match the rest. This is the order suggested by the factory manual. Don't forget to turn the master idle screw back down to where the throttles are barely open before installing on the bike and trying to start it. If fact, it is a good idea to check the throttle openings visually, with a strong light on the other side of the carbs, to make sure that they are all starting to open at the same time.

When you get the carbs on the bike, you need to warm the bike to operating temperature to sync the carbs properly, but this makes it hard to install the adapters for the vacuum tool. It is better to install the adapters, then put plugs over them to go for your warm-up ride. Use a large fan (or two) blowing on the engine for cooling, as this is going to take a while your first time. Get your remote fuel supply hooked up, then start the bike and note your vacuum readings. Adjust as necessary, but follow the sequence given above. #3 is your 'master', then 2, then 1, then 4. Note that you will be going back and forth until you get the readings you want.

Suzuki suggests doing the sync procedure at 1500-2000 rpm, others do it at idle, but it is also a good idea to slowly increas the engine speed when you are done to see how they react at increasing throttle openings. Be careful when closing the throttle if you have mercury sticks. The sudden increase in vacuum will suck the mercury right out of the gauge. :shock: The Motion Pro unit with the blue fluid will also have the fluid sucked out of it, but at least it's not as dangerous as the mercury. (Never mind, I see that you are lucky enough to have a Carbtune. Enjoy it.)

.
 
Steve or others,
when I turn the master idle speed adjuster screw all the way tight I can't get a paperclip to fit between the butterlfy valve and carb body tube. What do I need to do so that I can do this. Also just to verify the master idle speed adjuster is the plastic knob that faces the air intake side of the carbs and forces the butterly up and down correct? Did I put something back together wrong if this is happening?

Cory
 
Sometimes that happens, you can still use the light shining through the throats trick to get it close visually.

.
 
Steve,
So even if it's not as open as it specifies, it will be okay? It's close, but like I said that is cranked down all the way.

Cory
 
Question: did you replace the carb boot o-rings? Also, how many turns on the pilot screws?

Edit, I wouldn't worry about a bench sync. Use your eyes to judge if the butterfly's are close to the same. Tearing the carbs down doesn't actually change the sync all that much so you should be close unless you messed with the sync screws and lock nuts.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Nessism,
yes I replaced the all the O-rings including the intake boots, I got one of those handy kits from Robert. I left the pilot screw about 2 turns out. This is the screw that is on the top of the cylinder side carb tube right?

Cory

P.S. Nessism, the new "baby" looks great!
 
KRISTI'SGS550 said:
Nessism,
yes I replaced the all the O-rings including the intake boots, I got one of those handy kits from Robert. I left the pilot screw about 2 turns out. This is the screw that is on the top of the cylinder side carb tube right?

Cory

P.S. Nessism, the new "baby" looks great!
Click to expand...

Thanks.:oops:

I suggest you go straight to 3 turns out; made a world of difference on my old 550T (yes, screws on front/top).
 
Nessism,
I will be sure to turn them 3 complete turn out to start. Thanks for the hint.

Cory
 
Nessism said:
Question: did you replace the carb boot o-rings? Also, how many turns on the pilot screws?

Edit, I wouldn't worry about a bench sync. Use your eyes to judge if the butterfly's are close to the same. Tearing the carbs down doesn't actually change the sync all that much so you should be close unless you messed with the sync screws and lock nuts.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Nessism,
I didn't know what I was doing and I actually tore the sync screws, lock nuts and springs out for cleaning. So I just want to make sure to put it all beck together correctly. I will probably get them close by looking at them then do the light trick to get them closer.

Cory
 
Also should I have my valve adjustment done before snyching my carbs on the bike, or should I sync my carbs then worry about the vavle adjust?

Cory
 
Valves first. Then carb sync. Nice work Mr. KRISTI'SGS550. You're going to have a very sweet machine when you're done.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
So I need to wait until I get my last two shims (2) 2.70's before I can finish my carbs I guess. Any have any laying around? I check the shim thread periodically and haven't find any. I would hate to spent $5 each plus shipping from z1 or $10 plus shipping each at bikebandit.

Thanks for the help folks. After getting it together and a couple rides it will be time for the bike to get a bath!

Cory
 
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