• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

new guy here need help 1980 gs850

  • Thread starter Thread starter jtrip
  • Start date Start date
J

jtrip

Guest
i have a 1980 gs850gl i think lol its my first bike and i love it but i took the carbs apart and cleaned them and i noticed the needles where sticking down and not comming back up im sure that is a problem where can i buy the needles for it ?? also what should the rpm be in 5th gear im running 55 and im at 4k rpm is that high and should it sound like its winning at that 4k rpm ???

any help would be great
 
I can't help you with the needle valve source. I can tell you that your rpm sound almost exactly correct. Figure 14 mph per 1000 rpm in 5th gear, stock. Everyone will tell you that these engines love to spin. Once you get over the feeling that you're hurting the engine (you're not) you can learn to love the sound of your engine screaming at 6-9k, where the power lives. Myself, I like the sound my 850 makes at 75 mph and 5500 rpm, feet on the rear pegs, leaning into the wind.
 
How (when) did you observe the "needles" not coming up? looking into the carbs while the bike is running?
 
jtrip said:
i have a 1980 gs850gl i think lol its my first bike and i love it but i took the carbs apart and cleaned them and i noticed the needles where sticking down and not comming back up im sure that is a problem where can i buy the needles for it ?? also what should the rpm be in 5th gear im running 55 and im at 4k rpm is that high and should it sound like its winning at that 4k rpm ???

any help would be great
Click to expand...
First of all,
welcome1.gif



Welcome to the wonderful world of GS in general, and 1980 850s in particular. :D

I just got back from the Red River Rally, where I spent my first full weekend on my '80 850.

What needles are you talking about in the carbs? There are the "jet needles" that stick out the bottom of the slide/diaphragm assembly and there are the "inlet valve needles" that control the amount of fuel in the float bowl. The jet needles don't move very much or very far. If you give them a gentle tug, they will come out a couple of millimeters, but are spring-loaded to go back in. The inlet valve needles should be very free to move in the inlet valve body. They also have little tips that are spring-loaded, they should move freely and have a little tension on them. It is somewhat common for them to stick and/or lose a bit of tension, requiring replacement.

Replacement inlet valves are available at virtually all of the OEM suppliers. BassCliff sent you your official welcome package a few days ago, there is a good list of suppliers in there. I just got some for a set of carbs I was working on from Parts-n-More. You are looking for part #48-1446, they cost $8 each, you will need four. Since Parts-N-More has a policy of a $35 minimum order, you will need something to round that out. Consider the rubber plugs (part #48-5002) for the pilot jets. You only need one set, as there are five plugs in the set (there is an extra, for some reason). Look around their site before you leave, they have brake switches and levers at good prices, too, along with several other items, including gaskets. Other than the minimimum order, it's nice that they have a $5 flat-rate shipping charge.

If it is the jet needles that are sticking, it would be obvious that your cleaning job was not complete. :oops:
To properly clean the carbs, they need to come completely apart and get dipped in Berryman's Carb Cleaner Dip for a while. The amount of time varies, but is generally accepted to be between 2 and 24 hours, depending on how long the bike has been sitting. Do not dip any rubber parts, they will not survive. The jet needle can be removed from the slide and cleaned, but all that is usually required there is a couple of squirts of carb cleaner spray on the slide and needle. When you re-assemble the carbs, use all new o-rings. Kits are available from forum member Robert Barr, you can contact him at cycleorings.com. While you are ordering the o-rings, please also consider new o-rings for the intake tubes, along with the stainless hardware to hold the intake tubes to the head. The cost for everything there is only about $25, and your bike will thank you for it.

To address your question about engine speed, as others have mentioned, don't worry about it.
Here is a picture that my wife shot over my shoulder this last weekend. :D
IMG_4303.jpg



.
 
thanks guys i will get some ordered and let you know how that works out ...im glad to know rpm is not that bad man i hit 55 and was thinking i was going to break my bike but heck yea i will just let the 850 scream then if its not going to hurt it
 
jtrip said:
thanks guys i will get some ordered and let you know how that works out ...im glad to know rpm is not that bad man i hit 55 and was thinking i was going to break my bike but heck yea i will just let the 850 scream then if its not going to hurt it
Click to expand...


Hurt it ?!?! Nah...get her running well and turn it loose !!

These bikes are made to rev, not chug around.:)
 
Hi,

In top gear you'll get about 14 miles per hour for every 1000 rpm. At 5000rpm you'll be doing about 70mph. If your carbs are balanced and everything is in good repair it will be a smooth as glass. :)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
jtrip said:
thanks guys i will get some ordered and let you know how that works out ...im glad to know rpm is not that bad man i hit 55 and was thinking i was going to break my bike but heck yea i will just let the 850 scream then if its not going to hurt it
Click to expand...
In fact, once you get it running right, you will find that you actually have TWO bikes there. :eek:

If you just casually ride through town, it is easy to shift at 3-4000 rpm and stay well ahead of traffic.
Need a little more power? Just run it up to 5000 before shifting.:D

You want to see the other bike? Keep twisting the throttle, but hang on as it crosses 6000, it really wakes up. :dancing:

.
 
Be careful when approaching 11,000 rpm, the valves tend to float. :eek:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top