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New R/R, new stator, no charging

  • Thread starter Thread starter rlloydl
  • Start date Start date
rlloydl said:
Tom,
I am wiring back in original R/R now.
Also, while I don't think this has anything to do with the
price if butter, I am eliminating inline fuse on R/R positive
going to harness.(got output connector Kit from Eastern Beaver. Already wired for those applications
where user wants to wire R/R output straight to battery). While I am at it, I am going after T connector
a few inches up the harness.

Thanks for ideas.
Click to expand...

Just so you know, unless you have some really bad wiring, you are not going to see huge differences between the various methods for connecting the R/R. So if it is bad one way, it is going to be bad the rest.

These various options are for reducing the sensitivity to corrosion which can account for a few tenths of voltage 0.5-1.0 volts worst case.
 
Posplayr,
Got it. Connections at the T or in the front harness of the bike will
not fix my current problem.

Thanks for heading off any misunderstanding.
 
As I stated before, my plan is to wire back in the OE R/R.
When I wired in the SH 765, I took all 3 stator leads straight to
the new R/R. As I recall the factory R/R wiring had one of the stator
leads going to the harness (W/G wire). The return came back on the W/R.
As it is now the W/G and W/R are bypassed and I have them connected
to each other for tidiness. So easy enough (check me here), I run one stator lead
to W/G and then connect the returning W/R to the W/R on the OE R/R?
The OE R/R positive stays the same?

Thanks
 
Always wire the stator direct to the R/R. The type of R/R doesn't matter, OEM or aftermarket. Bypass the factory harness other than the power output from the R/R.

If you are getting 65 volts AC from the stator that seems low. I'd suspect the stator before the R/R, unless you miswired it and cooked the thing. At any rate, your R/R test should tell the story...
 
Nessism said:
Always wire the stator direct to the R/R. The type of R/R doesn't matter, OEM or aftermarket. Bypass the factory harness other than the power output from the R/R.

If you are getting 65 volts AC from the stator that seems low. I'd suspect the stator before the R/R, unless you miswired it and cooked the thing. At any rate, your R/R test should tell the story...
Click to expand...


65 VAC at 4500 RPM is 72 VAC equivalent at 5K. Not sure why he quoted a measurement at 4500 RPM number, but he did.
 
Hi Nessism and Posplayr,
Yea, those tests were after I just installed a new stator
I purchased from Caltric. I just did a quick test to be sure the newly installed one
was building current. Having owned this bike from new,
I just don't like to rev 5k while sitting still. Still like to rip on it when riding though.
Ok, so I will wire the OEM R/R the same.
Thanks
 
It just occurred to me, that while you know how I am spending my holiday, I hope
you guys are enjoying your holiday!
Thanks!
 
rlloydl said:
Hi Nessism and Posplayr,
Yea, those tests were after I just installed a new stator
I purchased from Caltric. I just did a quick test to be sure the newly installed one
was building current. Having owned this bike from new,
I just don't like to rev 5k while sitting still. Still like to rip on it when riding though.
Ok, so I will wire the OEM R/R the same.
Thanks
Click to expand...
The open loop voltage from the stator tests is proportional to RPM. So 10% less RPM puts you 10% less voltage. Unless someone is aware of that the 4.5K number can indicate an issue if interpreted as 5K RPM (see Nessism comment)

Not really sure, why 4.5K RPM is quieter than 5K RPM.......

Kicking back after dinner; Happy Labor day.
 
Ok, thanks for providing insight into his comments.
So a question for my understanding, if a stator is not
outputting optimal voltage at 5k, and is not shorting,
will this harm an R/R?
thanks
 
rlloydl said:
Ok, thanks for providing insight into his comments.
So a question for my understanding, if a stator is not
outputting optimal voltage at 5k, and is not shorting,
will this harm an R/R?
thanks
Click to expand...
Under output without shorting is possible. It will generally be less stress than higher voltage. Right now I would put your old r/r back on temporarily as a sanity check that your sh775 is kaput.
 
Egads, no charging. Had battery on trickle while working.
Voltage, key off was 12.5. Engine running at 5k
shows 12.5...no charging. To splice in old r/r I put new
bullet connector on hot wire in loom going to front and also
soldered new bullet connectors on old R/R wires to connect
stator wires and r/r output.(I previously cut old r/r wires close to r/r when i
removed it).
 
Hi Posplayr

Please clarify step highlighted in RED below. By leaving R/R connected, you mean for me to keep both ends of RR + connected?
In doing so, would it be acceptable to stick meter probe into butt connector where RR+ feeds into hot wire going into loom without
actually disconnecting?

Thanks,

STEP #2 MEASURE POSITIVE LEAD VOLTAGE DROP
Connect the black multimeter lead to the battery (+).
Connect the red multimeter lead to the RED output wire of the RR (+).
Leave the RR connected to the bike.
INCREASE ENGINE SPEED To 5000 RPM
Check the reading on the meter.
more than 0.25 V = Bad connection in the positive lead from RR (+) to battery (+). Check the entire lead (suspect the connectors as well as the
fuse-box and fuses). Good connections are extremely important in this high current lead. Solve the problem and move to STEP #3
 
rlloydl said:
Hi Posplayr

Please clarify step highlighted in RED below. By leaving R/R connected, you mean for me to keep both ends of RR + connected?
In doing so, would it be acceptable to stick meter probe into butt connector where RR+ feeds into hot wire going into loom without
actually disconnecting?
Click to expand...

Yes, you should be testing as if the bike is ready to go on the road(r/r fully connected). The voltage drop between those two points means there is resistance.
 
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