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New to the GS Forum

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gs1000g
  • Start date Start date
Let me look at my spare tubes tonight, I will let you know if they are worth claiming.
OK, the tubes have been looked at and have been declared "worth claiming".
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I had started sanding on one of them, getting it ready for paint, the other one still has the aged clearcoat on it, but there are no major dings, no broken tabs. They will need new seals, but the Teflon sliders are in good shape.

If you are interested, I will get some pictures for you.

.
 
Suzuki recommended a minimum of 8 psi in the forks. If you have stock springs and no air, it will be way to soggy up front. These are actually quite good handling bikes for their time. Heavy but pretty nuetral steering. Stable in turns if it isn't too bumpy. Better than some newer bikes. Way better than other shaft Japanese bikes of its age, like XS11 or XS750/850.
 
thanks for all the advice, the bike makes me happy so far, the previous owner changed the fork seals, so I don't know what exactly he did to the inside why he was in there. I'm going to finish this riding season and then the bike is going to get new brakes, adjust valves, polished motor case, new seat, ect. I just put new Pirelli Street demons on and have about 150miles on them so far. Waaayyy better than my flat continentals. Any other recommendations are appreciated. I haven't got the motor numbers yet.
 
Test from 1980:













They hardly hated it at all, and neither do I. The stock seat is one of the best ever in motorcycling.
 
I got the engine code today it is U701-100661. I also don't plan on changing the seat the previous owner put new foam in it. I just need a new cover as mine is tearing in the seams. I cant wait for my new tires to be sticky about another 100 miles then to the twisties in Arkansas I go.
 
Pit Replica makes the best looking stock seat cover replacement. Saddlemen doesn't look anywhere near as good.
 
I Thanks for the seat recommendation, my new concern is what size engine I have before I get parts, for it can anyone decipher the Vin I posted earlier for me. From what I have found its either an 1100 or a 1150 I've seen multiple post about the prefix number. I would just like clarification.
 
I Thanks for the seat recommendation, my new concern is what size engine I have before I get parts, for it can anyone decipher the Vin I posted earlier for me. From what I have found its either an 1100 or a 1150 I've seen multiple post about the prefix number. I would just like clarification.

Rule out the 1150. That is newer, chain drive not shaft, and has a 16 valve head.

The number you posted doesn't appear to be correct, however, This web site was pretty easy to find, and indicates that 1982 t0 1983 shaft drive 1100s had 1 U7 in them towards the front. That looks like what you have. In 1983, they got a better flowing head. 1983 engines had a black head, and crank case.
 
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lets say i am going to buy an exhaust what exactly would i buy it for? the 1100 or the 1000? from what i understand the engines dont have much difference externally vs internally so does the exhaust fit both? thanks again-james
 
The crank is larger diameter. The starter clutch does not interchange

I think my 1100G powered 1000G has a 1000G exhaust. You will find a ready market here for your stock exhaust should you wish to sell.
 
You might get a couple hundred out of it. People put them on the 1000E as well, even though the 1000E is different. I'm told they will go on. They are hard to ship. Two of the head pipes are welded to the mufflers, so they are long. How are your little chrome covers over the weld between the muffler and head pipe? They actually welded them up after chroming, so there is a little cover. I wonder how much chrome the welders breathed.
 
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