No charging after 100 miles on new Compufire

[Richsuz]

So, as I commented in the Compufire install thread. I got my new Compufire unit last thursday. I was replacing an OEM unit that had killed a battery and was charging at 17.25 volts and climbing. I instinctibly assume that the stator was good judging by a high voltage dc output from the r/r.

Installed the new Compufire unit. Solder spade conectors to the stator and r/r wires. connected them. Cut the positive and ground wires from the r/r and connected them directly to the battery. All other connections were left intact, just cleaned up.

Installed a new battery, fired up the bike. 1100 rpm and 12.8 volts. anything over 2500 rpm 14.8 volts steady.

Yesterday went for a ride. The bike was running great. I did noticed that after 4000 rpm there was a tingling vibration felt through the entire bike that was never there before, but the bike was pulling really good and the voltage was holding steady.

After 100 miles, the voltage dropped to 12 (I intalled a car voltmeter ground to chassis and Pos to the coil relay 12 volt output. I stopped to check my connections and there was nothing wrong. Started up the bike and the voltage went up to just under 13 volts, for a few minutes and dropped to 12 again. Got home after riding another 20 some miles. This morning, I started the bike and went up to 14.8 volts. A few minutes later shot up to 15.8 and back down to 12.

Checked the stator, and there is about 1 ohm between leads, but it is also shorted to ground. Could I have caused this by somehow intalling the new R./R incorrectly (which I did not do)?

I hope I did not ruin the new r/r (after $200 and three week wait that would be a bummer). How can a Stator that has been running strong for so long, fail like this? Usually is the stator that fries r/r's and not the other way arround. Where is the logic here?

Thanks in advance guys.

 

[tom203]

So, as I commented in the Compufire install thread. I got my new Compufire unit last thursday. I was replacing an OEM unit that had killed a battery and was charging at 17.25 volts and climbing. I instinctibly assume that the stator was good judging by a high voltage dc output from

Checked the stator, and there is about 1 ohm between leads, but it is also shorted to ground. Could I have caused this by somehow intalling the new R./R incorrectly (which I did not do)?

I hope I did not ruin the new r/r (after $200 and three week wait that would be a bummer). How can a Stator that has been running strong for so long, fail like this? Usually is the stator that fries r/r's and not the other way arround. Where is the logic here?

Thanks in advance guys.

Did you ohm test the stator before you installed the compufire r/r ? If your stator is shorted to ground any r/r is going to have trouble.
I'm not convinced - yet- that a bad stator always fries a r/r. The stator wires are small- maybe 16 gauge?- and would probably fry first. It sounds like your connections were right.

 

[Richsuz]

No I ASSumed it was good, and was so excited about getting my baby running, I took 17 volts out of the bad r/r as a a sign of a GOOD stator.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

It could be that your stator was already in bad shape when you installed your new Compufire unit. I've had my stator go intermittent, depending on temperature, as melted insulation starts shorting windings together when hot but then act more normal when cooler. My stator usually gives me a few of days warning before it goes completely ka-put. I've also had to replace a stator and not have to replace the r/r unit. Just see what your Stator Paper tests show. Don't forget to use the updates from Mr. posplayr.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[posplayr]

The Compufire is much less abusive on your stator than a SHUNT type so the stator was probably already gone.

A shorted stator wouldl likely not hurt the Compufire so you just need to replace the stator if it is shorted and fails the Open Circuit test at 5K RPM.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Maybe I misunderstood where you put the VM sensor in the loop there, but did you check that the battery wasnt boiled off? Charging at 17.5 volts (prior to you fixing it) for god knows how long would make quick work of ruining a battery. Along with the stator, I'd look into that too..

 

[blowerbike]

Maybe I misunderstood where you put the VM sensor in the loop there, but did you check that the battery wasnt boiled off? Charging at 17.5 volts (prior to you fixing it) for god knows how long would make quick work of ruining a battery. Along with the stator, I'd look into that too..

pssssss.
he said that he installed a new battery after the r/r upgrade..
mystery man

 

[TheCafeKid]

pssssss.
he said that he installed a new battery after the r/r upgrade..
mystery man

ROIT! I missed that.. Sorry.. Carry on! BTW, reading that again, you really should run an inline fuse between the R/R and the battery on the positive side..

 

[Dogma]

I just went through this with my 1000G. The stator checked out with good enough voltage "in the field", but didn't charge when the new regulator (two loaners, and eventually a series unit) was installed. The stator was, in fact, too far gone. Shorted to the case. Black as night when I took it out. Charging just fine on the new stator. Check the voltages like the stator papers say. If it ain't right, it's wrong. (I'm feeling profound today.)

 

[rustybronco]

If it ain't right, it's wrong. (I'm feeling profound today.)

it's left. (sorry, I just had to do it)

 

[Richsuz]

This is what my stator looks like. Is that the color of a cooked unit? I would not know


http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Du4_vC6goHMF2ShRpOAnJQ?feat=directlink

Are those two marks on the magnet normal?

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YWXGHQGMOVDDMmsFj2IzVw?feat=directlink

 

[posplayr]

This is what my stator looks like. Is that the color of a cooked unit? I would not know


http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Du4_vC6goHMF2ShRpOAnJQ?feat=directlink

Are those two marks on the magnet normal?

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YWXGHQGMOVDDMmsFj2IzVw?feat=directlink

those are pretty crappy pictures for the intended purpose. Burnt is burnt like in charcoal.

Did you test the open loop voltage before pulling the stator? If not I'm figuring you are committed to replace it and this juncture is irrelevant.

 

[tom203]

This is what my stator looks like. Is that the color of a cooked unit? I would not know


http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Du4_vC6goHMF2ShRpOAnJQ?feat=directlink

Are those two marks on the magnet normal?

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YWXGHQGMOVDDMmsFj2IzVw?feat=directlink

Color don't matter- it's shorted to ground! My shorted to ground stator didn't look cooked either. What two marks? You mean the grooves running across inside of rotor? Should be four of them- each segment has three magnet poles- N,S,N and then S,N,S, etc.

 

[Richsuz]

Yes I figure it did not make sense to measure no load on the stator for the same reason. It is shorted out.

I am going to look into having it rewound. New is over 200 bones. Rewinding should cost me about 50.