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Oh Goodie! the stator is toast also

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bill + Karen
  • Start date Start date
B

Bill + Karen

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Did the tests tonight with the new and improved meter and the legs on the stator came in at 72V, 74V, and 7.8V. :cry: Just ordered an Electrix R/R and I think I am going to try the extra stock stator that came with the bike. Other than the ohm test is there any way of knowing if it is good other than putting it in and running at speed to test output? How much fun are the stators to replace? Fairly straightforward, or I wish I never started this. The good news is Karen just asked how much to replace both with Electrix and didn't bat an eye when I told her the total. :D Would it be a good idea to replace the R/R on her bike with Electrix before her stock one goes and takes the stator with it? Thanks, Bill
 
You can do a continuity test using two of the leads at a time and checking each against the other two. All this will tell you is if you have an open or shorting circuit, but it is something. It won't tell you anything about output.
 
Stator is dead simple to install. You will feel a bit of resistance to taking off the cover, but that is due to the strong magnet. One trick is to lean the bike against something so you don't have to drain the oil. I rewound mine years ago and it is still going (touch wood!)

A new pairing of Elect. staor and R/R sounds like a great idea to me!!!
 
Bill+Karen,
I feel for you.
I have to replace the stator on my 1100. :x
Put a Electrex R/R on last year and it looks like I will now need a stator. 8O
Hope this will be the end of the electrical troubles :)
 
Maybe we just need to figure a way to install a pully and an alternator from a small-block chevy...... :twisted:
 
propflux01 said:
Maybe we just need to figure a way to install a pully and an alternator from a small-block chevy...... :twisted:
Click to expand...

How about a big fan that sits behind you running a belt drive alternator 8O :?
 
Talk about timing, I just had to change mine yesterday. Luckily I had a had a spare (sort of anyway, it belongs to the bike I'm rebuilding so I'll still windup buying one).
Anyway it is easy to swap out. You may not need to replace the gasket on the cover, depends on how intact it comes off, your call. You'll probably have to pull the counter sprocket cover as well. On mine the wiring routes underneath it.
Look in the stator papers for tests you can run before installing the other one. You can test between the three leads, between each lead and ground, and also a diode test. Stator Papers --> http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_garage.htm.
Lots of good information there. Wish I would have check there first :cry: . Would have saved myself some time. (What, we don't need no instructions :D ).
 
Feel for you guys. My 550 is on it's third set of stators and, R/Rs. Originals, after market set (not Electrex) of low quality and now back to Genuine Suzuki parts. I didn't know about Electrex when I put the OEM parts on. Expensive. Oh, yeah gone thru couple 3 batteries too! Fried one on the road, my fault didn't watch the electrolyte level, one was a Yuasa with their famous shorting cell, now got a 'Champion' badged Taiwanese battery that works great. (all my bike batteries spend winter inside and get charged regularly). But, taken in perspective that's over ten years of ownership. But do you really budget for this... :oops:
 
Yes, check the continuity between each lead. You should get under 5 Ohm, 5 Ohm is actually a lot in this application. Then Check each leads continuity to ground. It should be an extremely large resistance. Your meter will probably tell you it is out of range.

Steve
 
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