oil temp gauge - HOW TO CONTECT?

[Anonymous]

Hi, i have a 1983 gs750es, the oil temp gauge wire does not seem to be connected anywhere and thus the gauge does not work...does anyone know where the wire lead should run to or to what part of the engine the tempature sensor is connected? . Thanks in advance. :?:

 

[Anonymous]

Just behind the cylinders, on the top centre of the gearbox, there is a piece with two brass connectors. The rear one is the oil pressure sender, the front one is the oil temperature sender. Your spare wire should have a spade connector to fit.

Kim

 

[Anonymous]

??????????

??????????

I have that setup on my '82 GS1100E.
The ping wire goes into the oil temp gauge, the extra wire with the spade connector (green/yellow) is floating. When I touch that wire to the brass pole on that unit, all the lights on my panel come on and stay on.

????

Where am I going wrong?

Brad

 

[Anonymous]

Re: ??????????

Re: ??????????

I have that setup on my '82 GS1100E.
The ping wire goes into the oil temp gauge, the extra wire with the spade connector (green/yellow) is floating. When I touch that wire to the brass pole on that unit, all the lights on my panel come on and stay on.

????

Where am I going wrong?

Brad

Sounds like the wire is heading to the wrong destination in the dash panel.

Kim

 

[Anonymous]

thanks Kim, although i can't seem to locate the brass part you mentioned. I will try and get a digital camera and then post the picture, perhaps then you can point it out to me.

 

[daveo]

If the bike is not running, all the lights SHOULD light up to show they are functioning, they feed through the oil pressure switch, the more forward one is pressure, rearward is temp, on top of trani. So you probably have it right. When you lose oil pressure the whole dash will light up 8O
Good Luck Regardless

 

[Anonymous]

Am I Killing my engine?

Am I Killing my engine?

when I connect this all the lights come on, engine running or not. Taillight, headlight, sidestand. Temperature is high, but bike seems to be running fine. Could the sensor be faulty, or am i killing my engine driving it?
How can I check oil pressure, other than the switch, are the pumps known to go bad?
When I connect the oil pressure wire, ALL the dash lights come on and stay on, not just the oil light.

How can I check these out so tht I don't ruin my engine?
The wire was off when I bought the bike.


Brad

 

[daveo]

I'm not sure if this is the only way to check the oil pressure, but it will work, remove the switch and insall the pressure guage there, I had the retaining clip come off the pump drive gear, allowing the gear to walk out on its' shaft and the drive pin dropped out, lost oil pressure, all the lights came on, sounded the same though. I figured the switch was faulty. It wasn't, burned up the head and both cams. So I'd check it out before you ride her anymore. 8O and if that is what happened make sure to use a new clip upon reassembly

 

[Anonymous]

Dave, which pressure gauge?

Dave, which pressure gauge?

I'm not sure what you mean as far as testing the oil pressure. How do I do it?
This might explain why my oil temp is reading 160C on the highway.

 

[daveo]

The oil is pressurized via a pump which is driven off a gear on the rear of the clutch basket(inside the clutch cover) to lube the engines vitals, you need to get an oil pressure guage with an adapter that will fit in the oil pressure switch hole to check what pressure you have, 160C? Thats like a million F. no?How far did you drive it that way? Was it screeching ?

 

[Anonymous]

fine...

fine...

No it seemed to run fine.
No screechings at all. I had it up to 6000rpms on the highway.
I did however see the guage suddenly drop to 90C for a minute or 2 them flicked back up to 160C.
I guess this could be a falty switch, or the pump is only partially working?

 

[daveo]

sounds like 2 different issues, the temp. sending unit.and/or pressure sw. The pump is probably OK if you haven't burned up yet, I'd still see if you can borrow a pressure gauge to check it out though. 160C is over 300F so you should have seen/heard damage if the sending unit is indeed accurate, its probably not though, 90C is more like it.

 

[daveo]

You know,since there seems to be a problem with both these switches which are both mounted on the same plate right above the main oil galley,it may stand to reason the common problem could be found under the mounting /cover plate (who knows?maybe dude had it apart once?) maybe they RTV'd up a passage or something else easy to fix, its hard to see both of them screwing up at once. 2 -10 mm bolts I think

 

[Anonymous]

Oil Pressure? Temp?

Oil Pressure? Temp?

I don't know much about pressure but I do know since I changed all my fluids to full Sythetic, my engine runs alot cooler.....In stop and go traffic I can touch my engine slightly without burning my hand......I have had no clutch slippage but have read stories.......My pressure light will sometimes blink when starting after a night of sitting, but I do have it on it's side stand too......

 

[Anonymous]

Id get theat synthetic out of there... unless it's synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil... I work in a garage, and the synth is a thinner, lower friction fluid designed to cause peices in contact with it to easily slip past eachother without friction... but the clutch is not supposed to slip. Synthetic oils that are not designed with motorcycles in mind do not take the wet clutch of the motorcycle into mind with the design and friction qualities of the synthetic... if its motorcycle synthetic, I WANT TO KNOW WHAT IT IS! I'd love to run synth, suzi is a little too hot for my taste.

 

[Anonymous]

Synthetic Oil.....

Synthetic Oil.....

Hey Spyder,

I understand where your thinking is....I do Manage a Carquest Auto Parts and have learned to work on and read all that could pertain to my mechanical interest.....Synthetic Castrol 20w50 for example....Any synthetic does not break down like your regular oils....It stays the same consistancy as when you pour it in....I've been riding it a month or so with this change and everything still sounds the same as Castrol 20w50.....I understand, the cooler it runs the longer it will last......My bike has about 42k on it and I have a carb or vacuum problem, I'm still fighting.......I was told buy Focus Frenzy that I was crazy and should use motorcycle oil........I'm just not scared of too much, and in 6 months I may be rebuilding the engine, carbs and the primary and secondary (god forbid any of the last statement).....But the fact remains that this is what I'm going to continue with until I (learn the hard way) not to.....
Stubborn winch I am, but I must follow through with my decision....May it be a "good" lesson or test we can all learn from........I fully intend on putting this same engine oil in my 86' Nissan 200SX next time I change the oil......So far so good, but, I do accept any praises or thoughts on my (faulty as you may think) thinking.......
I like getting my hands dirty to learn something all the time.....

I love you all....

 

[Anonymous]

Oils

Oils

I am switching to Motul 0W40 or 15W50 this week.
I have found that there is a short in my oil pressure wire somewhere. When I put the spade connector to the oil pressure switch, all thelights come on. I check this wire to ground , and there is no resistance, this wire is not supposed to meet ground, according to the wiring schematic.

Back to work.


Cheers,


Brad

 

[TheNose]

Our local Autozone sells a synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil. I'm not positive, but I think it is Mobil 1 synthetic for motorcycles. $7.00 per quart!!!

 

[Anonymous]

Id get theat synthetic out of there... unless it's synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil...

if its motorcycle synthetic, I WANT TO KNOW WHAT IT IS! I'd love to run synth, suzi is a little too hot for my taste.

Both Golden Spectro and Honda make a motorcycle-rated full synthetic if that's what you're asking.