Ok, last ditch effort. 79 GS850G

[cal_look_zero]

I apologize if I'm a bit... pessimistic about the GS. I'm just about at my wit's end when doing something as simple as putting the rest of the bike together all of a sudden "causes" it to not run now. I'm aware that's not what caused it, but it's all that's changed since a week ago when it ran fine.

To save some time: Yes I've replaced all the carb o rings, replaced the manifold o rings, replaced carb gaskets, did a bench sync, and checked for air leaks at the boots and filters.

I'm running 110 main jets with pod filters and a stock exhaust. Bowl screws are at 1 1/2 turns out and air screws are at 1 5/8 turns out.

I can't get the bike to stay running. I can get it to start and run for about 30 seconds before it sputters and just dies off. When I try to open the throttle, it usually bogs out and dies, but if it does catch and run up, it dies about 10 seconds after dropping back to idle.

It has sporadic tendencies. Sometimes I can't start it without the choke, sometimes I can't start it with. Sometimes it will run, sometimes not. Generally speaking, I have no idea where to go. I've made adjustments that allowed it to run and accelerate fine, and then an hour later I can't even start it. Bear in mind my starter is shot, so I've been kicking it over. And my feet hurt a lot.

So I would gladly take any help. I'm too frustrated to try and diagnose any further with my limited carb knowledge.

 

[tkent02]

By "bowl screw" do you mean the pilot fuel screw?
If you do, try it about 5/8 turn out..... 1 1/2 is way too far. Do not break the tip of the screw off trying to "seat" the screw... it's very easy to do.

 

[Guest]

Have you checked fuel flow? Rust in the tank maybe blocking the fuel tap? Have an inline fuel filter? Just trying to think of what can interfere with it...

If you've got stock exhaust and pod filters, in theory the pilot jets should be ok stock size, so I doubt the fact that you have pods on is having a negative impact just having it idling... unless of course they're either not oiled or a cheapies that don't do any or enough restriction? Can't remember which pods you have off the top of my head...

 

[MisterCinders]

How are your valve clearances?

 

[Steve]

How are your valve clearances?

I agree here, lack of valve adjustment is the cause for many cold starting problems.
The valves on these bikes tighten up with use, tight valve = hard starting.

By "bowl screw" do you mean the pilot fuel screw?
If you do, try it about 5/8 turn out..... 1 1/5 [1 1/2] is way too far. Do not break the tip of the screw off trying to "seat" the screw... it's very easy to do.

5/8 is good for totally stock. Some find 3/4 a bit better for their bikes.
With your pods, I might suggest something between 3/4 and 1 full turn, probably closer to 3/4 to 7/8.

.

 

[tkent02]

Steve, he's in Grant's pass, higher elevation.

 

[cal_look_zero]

Valve clearances were all in spec after I swapped a couple of shims.

Using pods with K&N oil, not sure the brand, I bought them from 7981GS.

Elevation is about 1000'

I'll adjust those fuel pilot screws back in and see if that helps at all. I'm also attempting to get the starter running.

Fuel flow is good, I've had the bike running for about 15 minutes before. I'll probably pull the petcock and check to make sure no more residual rust is coming up.

Any suggestions on the air pilots, or is 1 5/8 probably good for now?

 

[Dave8338]

Have you double checked the float heights? Float needle screens? Air vent in the fuel cap? Flow from the petcock is all fine and well but is it getting through the carbs?

 

[Big T]

Valve clearances were all in spec after I swapped a couple of shims.

Using pods with K&N oil, not sure the brand, I bought them from 7981GS.

Elevation is about 1000'

I'll adjust those fuel pilot screws back in and see if that helps at all. I'm also attempting to get the starter running.

Fuel flow is good, I've had the bike running for about 15 minutes before. I'll probably pull the petcock and check to make sure no more residual rust is coming up.

Any suggestions on the air pilots, or is 1 5/8 probably good for now?

1 5/8 turns on the air should be Ok to start, rule of thumb is double turns of the fuel screw

Have you confirmed why it stops running?

Are the plugs wet?

Does the bike still have points/condensor? Were they changed?

You're either running out of spark or fuel.

If the plugs are wet, you're getting fuel.

If it dies, check for spark right away

 

[cal_look_zero]

I'm having some kind of electrical issue too it seems. I was messing with jumping the solenoid (found out my starter works, yay) and the amperage dropped off pretty quick. Put it on the charger, going to take a break for awhile. It did kick over and run for a few seconds after I dialed the bowl screws back in; seemed better than before.

 

[Steve]

Steve, he's in Grant's pass, higher elevation.

OK since that would make the bike run richer, yeah, 5/8 to 3/4 might be about right.

Either way, 1 1/2 was WAY too much.

.

 

[Big T]

I'm having some kind of electrical issue too it seems. I was messing with jumping the solenoid (found out my starter works, yay) and the amperage dropped off pretty quick. Put it on the charger, going to take a break for awhile. It did kick over and run for a few seconds after I dialed the bowl screws back in; seemed better than before.

Well, many old bikes have a host of small issues, that's why Cliff has the 10 common things in his megawelcome

Your starter may be gummed up, solenoid also, battery may have gone bad

None of that would affect kick starting, tho

Do you have 12V or more at the coils?

 

[cal_look_zero]

Well, many old bikes have a host of small issues, that's why Cliff has the 10 common things in his megawelcome

Your starter may be gummed up, solenoid also, battery may have gone bad

None of that would affect kick starting, tho

Do you have 12V or more at the coils?

I pulled the starter and cleaned it all up. Found out the solenoid is shot (works, but 12v in doesn't trigger it) so I ordered another one up.

I've been through the 10 things, double checked all the "big" things (new o rings, charging system works well, petcock in good shape, etc), I honestly think I'm just fighting a multitude of littler things that will eventually pass. I was so excited that I scored a set of calipers and would be able to ride it, that I probably overlooked a thing or 2.

Probably just gonna take a break, let the battery charge up, wait for my solenoid to arrive/feet to heal up, and give er hell on Thursday or Friday.

 

[Steve]

Too bad you have already ordered a solenoid.

You could have gone to the lawn mower department at Lowe's or Home Depot and gotten one for a lawn tractor for a LOT less.

.

 

[Guest]

I pulled the starter and cleaned it all up. Found out the solenoid is shot (works, but 12v in doesn't trigger it) so I ordered another one up.

I've been through the 10 things, double checked all the "big" things (new o rings, charging system works well, petcock in good shape, etc), I honestly think I'm just fighting a multitude of littler things that will eventually pass. I was so excited that I scored a set of calipers and would be able to ride it, that I probably overlooked a thing or 2.

Probably just gonna take a break, let the battery charge up, wait for my solenoid to arrive/feet to heal up, and give er hell on Thursday or Friday.

That could be the best move... take a break, get a fresh start, and just take it one thing at a time. Saves beating yourself about the head and getting all messed up about it...

 

[Honda!]

I'm having EXACTLY the same problem with my '82 850g. The symptoms you describe, along with all the things you've checked, are the SAME as what I'm dealing with. I'm watching this thread, please let us know if you can figure it out.

Something odd that my bike does, in addition to all of what you've mentioned: If you set it on the side stand while it's running, or lean it to the right, it revs WAY up, but eventually idles down. Again, I'm working with pretty much identical circumstances (only difference: I have a K&N filter in the stock air box with all new boots).

Keep us posted!

 

[Nessism]

Wish I had a nickle for every thread about a bike with pods running poorly. I'd get an airbox and make sure the jets are stock before doing anything more.

 

[tas850g]

For now just Try putting the petcock on pri. My air screws are turned out around 2 1/2 turns but I don't live at 1000'.

3 yrs ago I had a very similar situations and for some strange reason my petcock failed in between dipping and assembling. After 3 days of messing with it I turned the petcock on pri and it ran great for longer than 15 minutes. New OEM petcock and the problem was fixed.

This may or may not work but this was my experience.

 

[cal_look_zero]

I have to put it aside for awhile and get the g/f bike roadworthy, but when my parts show up, I'll be starting from square 1. I know I have some electrical issue currently, as only one point is getting any voltage. Going to diagnose basic fuel and electrical issues and move forward from there.

As far as pods go; meh. I doubt I could get it to run currently with an airbox in either. Carbs are designed to be adjusted for varying air and fuel conditions, and having pods is simply another variable to adjust for, like; elevation, humidity, temperature, velocity, and purity.