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PC8 Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter cp___32
  • Start date Start date
C

cp___32

Guest
Hello,
I've seen a few people on here have installed a Power Center 8 (PC8) fuse box. I've already pulled the original glass fuse box and replaced it with a blade fuse holder from NAPA that I modded but am less than happy with.
The PC8 seems like an amazing little unit, very clean and well put together. Does anyone here want to provide some feedback on it?
They sell just the fuse box and they sell a kit with the box and 30A relay. Would anyone recommend one over the other? The one with the relay seems like it might clean up the coil relay mod perhaps?

Any/all advice welcome :)
 
If you search you will probably find install threads . I'm pretty fire I have posted recommended installation wireing configurations. And yes a relay would clean up much of the power drops but not all.
 
Posplayr's last link was to the thread that I started to document the install on my son's 1000G.

I think it will give you all the pros and cons related to the unit.

I have now installed one on each of our four GSes, as well as a couple others for other members.

I highly recommend it. :encouragement:

.
 
Thanks very much for the replies. I was having difficulty finding much because I was searching variations of "PC8" and adding keywords like fuse and install, but wasn't having much success (mainly because PC-8 is too short of a search string). I see now that searching for "Eastern Beaver" would have netted more results.

I actually came across that Solid State Power Box and that idea looks pretty slick so I think I am leaning more toward installing one of those instead of a PC8 and doing the coil relay mod.

Steve: I actually think your post might have been how I found out about the PC8 in the first place. I'd been reading through Good Times' rebuild thread and I think it might have been your post he linked out to.

It sounds like either option will be money well spent. I'll keep digging. In the meantime gotta get my Kawi running since that's the one with a plate and insurance. Then back to the GS!
 
Steve,
My plan is at some point to do a redesign of the original SSPB to create a SSPB II. The main visual difference will be the use of terminal screws (like the PC-8) rather than the Molex connector. I looked at your pictures and you seem to have a.)just stripped back the insulation , b.)given the bare copper a twist and c.)inserted it into the screw terminal. Any problems with that?
I was thinking doing a.) strip and twist as you did then b.) "little" tinning, then c.)give the terminal a little squirt of DeOxit and d.)finish tightening and it would be close to as reliable as any connector with substantially more contact force. You could easily give the terminal strips a little squirt for good measure as part of an annual or multi-year maintenace cycle.
Jim

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...er-Box-II-Market-Research-Poll&highlight=SSPB
 
Hey Pos I just read through Steve's thread and he did mention that he tinned the wires before inserting them into the PC-8.
 
you seem to have a.)just stripped back the insulation , b.)given the bare copper a twist and c.)inserted it into the screw terminal. Any problems with that?

Jim

Posplayer, this is all I did to the Eastern Beaver box I installed on my 550T and haven't experienced any problems with it since. I'm not as smart about this as you or Steve but I can lend my experiences if you want; is there something I should look for to help answer your questions?
 
Steve, ... I looked at your pictures and you seem to have a.)just stripped back the insulation , b.)given the bare copper a twist and c.)inserted it into the screw terminal. Any problems with that?

Hey Pos I just read through Steve's thread and he did mention that he tinned the wires before inserting them into the PC-8.
Yep, mentioned it part-way through post #3.

I had cut the original wires from the stock fuse panel, then connected them to the new panel.
I tinned the ends of the wires before clamping them into the new panel.
I then ran the wires in the space behind the fuse panel, out to where they would join the wiring harness in pretty much the stock location.

In the years since that thread was made, I have not bothered to measure any loss of efficiency in the electrical system on that bike, but we have had NO problems with it, so I am going to assume that it is still OK. I know, it's wrong to assume, but we have had no reason to measure, so I simply have not bothered.

.
 
Yep, mentioned it part-way through post #3.



In the years since that thread was made, I have not bothered to measure any loss of efficiency in the electrical system on that bike, but we have had NO problems with it, so I am going to assume that it is still OK. I know, it's wrong to assume, but we have had no reason to measure, so I simply have not bothered.

.

No need to be too anal about measuring voltage drop :). I was just worndering about duability of other issues since I am looking to do a production design based on a similar method of connection
 
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