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Por-15

  • Thread starter Thread starter jhelbig
  • Start date Start date
J

jhelbig

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What size can of Por-15 tank sealer do I need for my tank? It's a '79 GS1000. Thanks!
The frame is back from the powdercoaters, looks great! The tank got cleaned at the radiator shop and I need to get the tank coated before I get it painted. I'll post pictures when I get a chance!
 
Most kits though are sold as a quart (enough to do 3 tanks) Look a kit that has the 3 4oz cans. This will more than enough but allows you to not open all the paint unless its needed. I like the kit since it comes with the cleaner and the etcher. Just slush something like MEK or Acetone with a hand full of drywall screws in first. This will break up any loose rust and scale.
 
Hammered said:
Most kits though are sold as a quart (enough to do 3 tanks) Look a kit that has the 3 4oz cans. This will more than enough but allows you to not open all the paint unless its needed. I like the kit since it comes with the cleaner and the etcher. Just slush something like MEK or Acetone with a hand full of drywall screws in first. This will break up any loose rust and scale.
Click to expand...

The smallest size is 8 oz, which is plenty to seal a motorcycle tank. This is the size that comes in the "kits" Por-15 sells.

If the tank is already clean inside there is no need for a complete kit. The kit comes with degreaser and phosphate etching solution in addition to the sealer.

In my experience, using screws and such inside the tank is not very effective - aquarium gravel works best. Pea gravel is second best. The small size of these particles scrubs the surface of the tank much better than a handful of screws that just kind of bounce around.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the info! Yes, it is already clean on the inside. It got cleaned about two days ago. I want to hurry and get some of that sealant on it soon. So I was reading the directions for using the sealant online,

"Pour in the entire can of fuel tank sealer and ?roll? the tank
around so that all surfaces come in contact with the sealer.
Then drain for at least 30 minutes to ensure that sealer has not
?puddled? in tank. After you?ve done this, dump out the left-over
sealer back into the can, but DON?T PUT THE LID BACK ON
THE CAN TIGHTLY OR IT MAY EXPLODE! Leave the can
open and it will harden overnight. Then throw it out the next day.
Allow 72 - 96 hours for sealer to dry. Air dry tank in a well-ventilated
area. Maximum cure will be reached in 96 hours. Setup
time can be improved by using a low pressure blower or hair
dryer (low or no heat) and circulating it through one hole in tank
and out another."

Any other tips, tricks, or suggestions?
Thanks alot!
 
Swish the sealer around until you are confident there is 100% coverage inside the tank. The hard part is getting sealer on the U shaped portion of the tank that straddles the frame backbone. After you get everything covered really well – takes about 15 min. for me, drain out as much sealer as you can though the petcock opening. There will still be quite a bit of sealer still in the tank so I continue to flow the sealer around in the tank by propping the tank up in alternate positions and keep the sealer flowing around for as long as it’s still fluid. If you do it right, you can get another complete coat inside the tank. After the sealer kicks off and stops flowing, you are done.

Good luck and hope this helps.
 
Thanks a bunch to all! I ordered the small can of tank sealer and will seal it ASAP!
 
Just for my own understanding, does this tank have a gas gauge? If so, do you have to remove it before coating the tank? And do you have to make up a block off plate for the gas gauge opening when swishing the sealer around?
 
Just for my own understanding, does this tank have a gas gauge? If so, do you have to remove it before coating the tank? And do you have to make up a block off plate for the gas gauge opening when swishing the sealer around?
Click to expand...

I sealed off both the guage opening and the petcock opening ; two block offs. I must have left the filler open or just used tape.

It takes a lot of swishing before the Por-15 tank sealer sets and no real easy single drain point. You dont want to stop before it sets as you will get a much thicker layer if a large amount runs to the bottom. Swiching continues to distribute what is there over a wider area so not as thcik a build up in any area.

Be prepared for a bit of a mess. Dont do this in the living room:eek:.

Pos
 
That was a good question, pdqford, I was also wondering about that.
 
I used a #9.5??, I think that was the size, rubber stopper to seal the fuel gauge hole, it also allowed for quick removal to check inside the tank. You can get them from any store that sells wine makng supplies. Pour some or all of the POR-15 in through the fuel opening to make sure the tunnel part of the tank is coated fairly well before you seal that hole and swish it around. that tunnel is hard to get coated properly.
 
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