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Por15

  • Thread starter Thread starter bluewool
  • Start date Start date
B

bluewool

Guest
So I finally got around to starting the tank liner. My tank wasn't bad, just a little orange in the fuel filter, no heavy flaking or scale when I drained and washed the tank. This is a good sign.

So foloowing the instructions I removed the petcock(I have a new one to install also-- long story) and the fuel gauge float. As per instructions, I sealed these holes off using a quality duct tape.

donned appropriate safety gear ie clothes that can be destroyed, nitril gloves and my glasses.

1. Mixed up a batch of "Marine Clean" 1:1 in a 4litre jug.
2. poured it into the tank.
3. Rolled tank gently
to paraphrase Rainier Wolfcastle, "My tank! the duct tapes does nothing"
the glue on the tape released almost instantly.

4. Quickly rinsed off spillage and rested the tank on end.

5. cursed profusely. "Marine Clean" is NOT kind to decals if the clear coat has chipped off. My bike is a 30' beauty so I am not too concerned. Next winter I am hoping to have the paint restored.

6. Desoldered fuel level float from cover, reinstalled along with the old petcock. This solved the quick release duct tape issues.

So I will let this wash around in there for a day or two, I am more concerned about the amount of shellac than I am about the rust at this point.


more to come.
 
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As you found out, duct tape doesn't cut it

You need to make some metal covers for the two holes, preferrably ones that bolt on
 
Big T said:
As you found out, duct tape doesn't cut it

You need to make some metal covers for the two holes, preferrably ones that bolt on
Click to expand...

Yeah, oh well. I know for next time. I have a couple of rd tanks to do.

I solved the leak in step 6. so far the cursing has ended..
 
I've used that marine clean all the way through on my rebuild from cleaning the frame to soaking the crank cases and heaps of things like that.

I have something like 20 litres mixed with water in a big tub (5:1 ratio with the 4 litre marine clean) and I can keep using it effectively over and over again. Probably not quite as effective as when I first mixed it up, but it still cleans stuff.

When you're finished your tank cleaning with it, just strain any chunky bits out into a bucket or tub or something and you can keep using it again and again. Makes great value for money :D

Oh, and a 1:1 ratio with water will start giving you that burning feeling if you get it on bare skin...
 
pete said:
I've used that marine clean all the way through on my rebuild from cleaning the frame to soaking the crank cases and heaps of things like that.

I have something like 20 litres mixed with water in a big tub (5:1 ratio with the 4 litre marine clean) and I can keep using it effectively over and over again. Probably not quite as effective as when I first mixed it up, but it still cleans stuff.

When you're finished your tank cleaning with it, just strain any chunky bits out into a bucket or tub or something and you can keep using it again and again. Makes great value for money :D

Oh, and a 1:1 ratio with water will start giving you that burning feeling if you get it on bare skin...
Click to expand...


I think I will do just that, it's an impressive cleaner. I'd like to have a look at the whimis to see what is actually in it. I was wearing nitril gloves to avoid just that burn.
 
What is this 'marine clean' and can it be used in a parts cleaner?
 
Will this 250ml / 8oz can be enough to coat my 1150 tank? I am concerned and not wanting to start, only to find that I don't have enough.

edit. answered it myself. 4oz is good for 12sqft so I think 8 should be PLENTY for the inside of a tank... I just kept looking at the big tank and back at the little can.. and back at the tank.. and back at the can.. didn't seem like enough to roll around in there.
 
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I questioned the amount as well while coating my GS700 tank, purchased another 8 oz can, and did not need it.

E
 
I've coated several tanks now with POR-15 tank sealer and offer the following suggestion.

Stir the contents of the can completely, the thick stuff settles to the bottom of the can. Shaking the can doesn't get the goop mixed up properly so stir.

Dump in the full can and then roll the tank around. The hard part to cover is the hump that goes over the frame rail. You really need to work the material around to get that hump covered. Also, get the top of the tank by the filler opening.

After about 20 min. of moving the stuff around inside dump out the excess though the petcock opening. Even after the stuff stops dripping out of the opening there will still be a lot of excessive sealer inside the tank.

Continue to rotate the tank though various positions as the excess with continue to flow. There will be plenty of material to perform a full second coat on the inside of the tank - the first layer will start to firm up so keep rotating to lay down a second coat. Again, focus on getting a really good thick coat on the tank hump area. It will take at least 30 more min. before the sealer stops flowing. I advise to keep rotating the tank until all the sealer has kicked off and won't flow any more.

Hope this helps and good luck.
 
Thanks for the replies. I am going to rinse out the acid this afternoon and begin drying it. Off to Princess Auto now to find some sort of small fuel tank to use for balancing etc.
 
Well I picked up the tank today from my friends shop where I did the actual pouring of the Por15.

Here are some interior photos:

tankphotos017.jpg


tankphotos013.jpg


tankphotos009.jpg


tankphotos008.jpg


tankphotos005.jpg



I would save enough to paint around the inner part of the fill hole and to paint the arm for the fuel float.

I didn't use forced air to dry out the tank(after rinsing the acid out) because I live in an apartment and the fumes would have ended my marriage. So as an alternative I bought some "Pets Pal Silica Cat Litter" and filled a used nylon(donated by lovely and extremely tolerant wife) with a table spoon knotted it and added another table spoon, and on until I had filled both stockings. I then tied strings to them and lowered them through the float hole tying the ends off one the outside of the tank I sealed it all up with the old petcock, float cover and gas cap. Resting it against the radiator I waited about four days until I was sure the gel had absorbed all the moisture. It seems to have worked, there was no reason it wouldn't, but time will tell.

I also have about 3 3/4 punds of silca cat litter if anyone is interested...
 
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The POR-15 paint cures by absorbing moisture. Sucking the moisture out of the air will delay the cure. I suggest you leave the tank open where the open air can get to it for at least a few more days before adding fuel.
 
Nessism said:
The POR-15 paint cures by absorbing moisture. Sucking the moisture out of the air will delay the cure. I suggest you leave the tank open where the open air can get to it for at least a few more days before adding fuel.
Click to expand...


You misunderstood me.( I have since edited my post) I used the desiccant to remove the moisture after rinsing out the acid. The tank was left open with the Por15 drying for a week. I realistically won't be adding fuel for another two.
 
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