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Powering the fuse block through a relay.

  • Thread starter Thread starter spyug
  • Start date Start date
S

spyug

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Somewhere in this treasure trove of information, I remember reading about using a relay to provide full battery voltage to the fuse block. I've been searching with every combination of words and phrases but can't turn it back up.

Could anyone point me in that direction or at least advise me which pins to use to which leads. I imagine 30 is power from the battery and 87 is power to the block, 86 is ground but what about 85 , where would it go?

I'm still not getting full voltage at the fuse block and would like to do what I can to fix that.

As always all help is appreciated.

cheers,
Andy
 
85 will be the connection from your ignition switch. I have a copy of my diagram but it's saved as a visio document that I can't upload here. Shoot me an email address and I'll send it to you.
 
30 is fused power from the battery.
86 is switched power to turn the relay on and off.
85 is ground.
87 will go to your fuse block.
87a is not used.
 
That's weird George (AND BY NO MEANS AM I GOING AGAINST YOU) but my 86 is ground and 85 is ignition. I'll double-check it tomorrow and make sure my diagram is still correct.

Course I have a relay with two 87s (no 87a on this one)
 
There are a couple of different ways to wire a relay. If you find an internal diagram of a relay, you will see what I mean. You posted while I was still looking it up, did not mean to disagree.
 
It's crazy to power the fuse box with a relay. There is only two terminal connections and a very short piece of wire between the battery and fuse box.

Learn to pull the terminals out of your plastic harness connector shells, and then clean the brass (there are various ways). There is no reason what so ever for you not to get 95%+ battery voltage at the fuse box with only minimal work and NO RELAY.
 
In order to shamelessly thread jack.
Spyug how many turns out are you idle screws?
 
Spyug how many turns out are you idle screws?
Click to expand...
Right now 2.5 turns Why?

It's crazy to power the fuse box with a relay. There is only two terminal connections and a very short piece of wire between the battery and fuse box
Click to expand...
I actually wondered that myself but I was intregued by the idea and thought I'd like to look into it. I actually want to rig a power distribution block to handle accessories like driving lights and heated hand grips. I've also got a few extra leads running to both the + and - poles of the battery right now and wanted to clean that up too.

Thanks for the input.
Spyug
 
spyug said:
I actually want to rig a power distribution block to handle accessories like driving lights and heated hand grips. I've also got a few extra leads running to both the + and - poles of the battery right now and wanted to clean that up too.

Thanks for the input.
Spyug
Click to expand...
This is what I did. It powers several things - coils, battery health wire, and aftermarket horns.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
That's weird George (AND BY NO MEANS AM I GOING AGAINST YOU) but my 86 is ground and 85 is ignition. I'll double-check it tomorrow and make sure my diagram is still correct.
Click to expand...
Unless you have a diode between 85 and 86 to supress kick-back (most relays don't, but a harness might), it does not matter which one is powered and which one is grounded.



Nessism said:
It's crazy to power the fuse box with a relay. There is only two terminal connections and a very short piece of wire between the battery and fuse box.
Click to expand...
That "very short piece of wire" only powers the MAIN fuse. After power goes through the MAIN fuse, it then goes to the ignition switch and comes back to power the rest of the fuse box. That is what he is trying to do, because his voltage is apparently a bit low after going through the ignition switch.

Spyug, there is no problem using a relay to power the switched part of the fusebox, but I think it also requires moving your R/R outout wire so it goes directly to the battery, not the red wire in the main harness.

When it is in the stock location, connected to the red wire, it feeds the ignition switch, which is only going to turn your relay ON.

Actually, looking at this a little more, anything that does not go to the bike through the ignition switch will go back through the MAIN fuse to the battery, pretty much like the stock setup, except that virtually ALL of the R/R's output will be going through the main fuse now, instead of what is left over that the bike did not need (lights, ignition, etc.). This might mean that you will need to increase the size of the fuse from 15 to 25 or 30 amps. An alternate would be to simply move the output of the R/R directly to the battery (through a fuse, of course), and using properly-sized wire with fewer connections along the way.

.
 
Thanks Steve. I'm going to need to digest this a bit more. As I mention, I am trying to increase the voltage at the fuse block ( to power accessories) but also tidy up the extra wires currently running hither and yon. There is not a lot of room in the 550 so keeping it tidy is important for good operation and peace of mind.

I'm going to pick up another relay and a distribution block today to help me plan out how this is all going to go together. I'm a bit of a visual person and can understand things easier when laid out in front of me.

I'll let you know how it comes together.

Thanks,
Spyug
 
When I was trained in Automotive Specialized Electronics, They said a .5 volt drop in a wire or component such as a switch was acceptable.

I say HOOEY. Just think , if each and every splice, terminal in a plug, switch, and corroded or overheated wire had a half volt drop and the resulting heat generated, our bikes wouldn't even run! And Some Do Not.

Given the loop up thru the ignition switch and the loop for the one leg of the stator.. I wonder what they were thinking?

I know a LOT of my GSs were hard starting because the coils were only getting 8 or 9 volts with a fully charged battery..so I can see where the relay mod is good.
I just never did it yet and probably won't. I usually do away with connectors and solder/heatshrink 'em
 
Actually, voltage drop across a wire is calculated in percentages, based on wire gauge and length.
My GS had a voltage drop in the switch itself. I did not want to disassemble the instrument cluster, so I did my own relay mod. Worked like a charm.
 
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