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Rear brake torque link

Larry D

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I removed the forward bolt on the brake torque link and now I can't get it to line back up to replace the bolt. I've tried sitting on the bike to lower the suspension, but, it doesn't move the link far enough forward to get the holes lined up. Do I simply need more weight to draw the bar forward ?

Am I missing something here or is there a trick to do this ?
 
Loosen the big axle nut, grab the caliper and rotate it forward on the axle.
 
This brings up a ?. You tighten the axle bolt to 80 ft-lbs. But this torque restricts the caliper yoke from swiveling as swingarm moves up and down- over time your 80 ft-lbs gets dropped as metal grinds off aluminum caliper yoke. What me worry?
 
This brings up a ?. You tighten the axle bolt to 80 ft-lbs. But this torque restricts the caliper yoke from swiveling as swingarm moves up and down- over time your 80 ft-lbs gets dropped as metal grinds off aluminum caliper yoke. What me worry?

Fair question. OP doesn't say what bike so we don't know what he has going on. On my 1100E the torque arm is attached to the swing arm, so the caliper carrier doesn't move once everything is assembled. On bikes where the torque arm attaches to the frame the carrier has to float on a bushing and not be clamped by the axle tension or there will be problems, as you note.


Mark
 
OP doesn't say what bike, because the OP has his bike listed in his signature.....how about you ?:-\\\

Loosening up the axle bolt and rotating the caliper forward worked and after a bit of brake bleeding the "Mighty GK" is back on the road !! :)
 
OP doesn't say what bike, because the OP has his bike listed in his signature.....how about you ?:-\\\

I never had a look at your sig line, guess I should have... You talked me into it Larry, I have added my bikes to my sig. I'm not sure why it doesn't update my previous posts, though.


Mark
 
I'd do it but there's a imit on sig lines. I'd have to change it too often anyway.
 
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