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replaced oil drain pan, now oil leaks from bolts

  • Thread starter Thread starter ram
  • Start date Start date
R

ram

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I replaced my oil drain pan after a stripped drain plug. After I bolted all the bolts in place. I just wanted to test whether everything looked okay. So, I added some oil to see how its going. Soon enough oil started coming from the bolts that I had just tightened.
What seems to be the problem? I did not replace the gasket as it looked okay. Could this be due to a leaky gasket?
 
You really cannot tell from appearances. Any lower gaskets (oil pan, stator cover, clutch cover) should be replaced if it has any significant miles on it. Whatever you do, do not ever use gasket sealers or RTV on any gaskets unless you are on the side of the road 300 miles from home and need to make it back home.
 
I guess, I will have to replace the gaskets. I hope that solves the problem.
 
The oil pan uses a thicker gasket, I learned that the hard when I did the same thing as you did. Dealer was cool about it and cut me a thicker gasket (that's when they still had a operation gasket cutting set up) and no more problems.

ram said:
I replaced my oil drain pan after a stripped drain plug. After I bolted all the bolts in place. I just wanted to test whether everything looked okay. So, I added some oil to see how its going. Soon enough oil started coming from the bolts that I had just tightened.
What seems to be the problem? I did not replace the gasket as it looked okay. Could this be due to a leaky gasket?
Click to expand...
 
I cannot understand the logic of going to the trouble to replace the pan and NOT using a new $10.00 gasket. :confused:

Eric
 
Thats gasket has been crushed and compacted and is crap and now you gotta do it all again. And be sure all the little pieces of gasket are off the engine and the pan or youll be doing try number 3 shortly. Save yourself the trouble of using 3 bond or RTV too...gasket the thing.
 
7981GS said:
I cannot understand the logic of going to the trouble to replace the pan and NOT using a new $10.00 gasket. :confused:

Eric
Click to expand...

You are right Eric.. I was a dumbass and lazy.. I saw the gasket and it looked okay. I am going to get some new gaskets/ cut the gaskets and see how it goes.
 
buy a genuine gasket, cut or home made gaskets never work. for the cost of them its false economy to bodge it
 
buy a genuine gasket, cut or home made gaskets never work. for the cost of them its false economy to bodge it
Click to expand...

Normally I would advise you to make your own gaskets as you can get the paper from any automotive stores and it would be cheaper but not in this case. I am waiting for a factory gasket for my 550 project and in my desire to figure out my low oil pressure, I made my own gasket after mucking about in the sump. I am quite good at it having done it a few times ( I thought) and took my time to do it right but it still leaks. Its not worth the agro.

Hopefully, your gasket will be in stock. I've now been waiting 2 weeks.

Cheers & good luck,
spyug
 
Can someone explain quickly how gasket works? Does it prevent complete flow of oil from touching the drain pan? does it take whole weight of oil when the bike is in centrestand?
 
The new gasket is thick and pliable. As you tighten the bolts it will squish itself into all the little imperfections on both sides of it. It acts as a barrier for the oil to leak around or thru any gaps, thus sealing the space. It does hold back the entire weight of the oil as it settles down in to the sump.
 
chuck hahn said:
The new gasket is thick and pliable. As you tighten the bolts it will squish itself into all the little imperfections on both sides of it. It acts as a barrier for the oil to leak around or thru any gaps, thus sealing the space. It does hold back the entire weight of the oil as it settles down in to the sump.
Click to expand...

Excellent. That explains why I should change it it the first place when I removed the drain pan. My gasket was stuck to the motor and would not come off.
 
Yes...once its squished and heat has made it take a set and then becomes brittle, you cant torque the bolts to make it squish anymore without breaking a bolt of stripping out the fragile alumiunim threads in the case..which you need to be carefull to use a torque wrench on the new one so you dont strip anything. dont skimp on any of the other engine cover gaskets either..just my 2 cents worth. One thing I hate more than anyhting is to spend the time and then have chit leak..
 
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be carefull not to use sand paper or other abrasives on the machined surface either. You dont want to induce low spots. I recommend a utility knife blade and go along and fillet the old gasket from the areas it stays stuck to. Clean the surfaces with a CLEAN rag and some laquer thinner to be sure its potless clean and no grit or anything is there to get trapped in the gaskets.
 
Called the Ready Suzuki dealership and they have the gasket in stock. I will pick them out today and try to replace them.
 
They are a piece of cake to install. You have already done the hard one once. Just remember to clean the surfaces well and install the gaskets dry (no adhesive).
 
I have a weird feeling that one of the bolt hole could have been stripped. However how do I ensure that this does not happen. if its stripped, what are my options?
 
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