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RR hickups at stoplight after coming off hway

DimitriT

DimitriT

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I'm running a Ricks RR and an Electrosport stator on the 550. Battery is cheap Walmart
but reads healthy and is pretty new.

I also have a voltage LCD readout so I can monitor at the battery terminals.

All is well. I am super happy with the setup except...

After running on the highway for some 20-30 minutes (voltage reading 13.5-13.8V)
I take an exit and come to a stop.

Usually the voltage drops to an expected 12.4-12.6V (depends on air temp).

Once in a while (not always) voltage will drop to 11.8V until I rev the motor and then
it will return to the 12.4V range.

This bike has already blown a stator so the wiring has been gone over with new
spade connectors. And like I said the RR and stator are relatively new.

Is anyone else seeing this? Am I on the verge of getting another blown stator?
 
Mine has always done that. So far I've had no problems. I have an analog sweep style voltmeter I put on, it's been telling me my voltage for the past three years. Seems to be fine.:)
 
DimitriT said:
I'm running a Ricks RR and an Electrosport stator on the 550. Battery is cheap Walmart
but reads healthy and is pretty new.

I also have a voltage LCD readout so I can monitor at the battery terminals.

All is well. I am super happy with the setup except...

After running on the highway for some 20-30 minutes (voltage reading 13.5-13.8V)
I take an exit and come to a stop.

Usually the voltage drops to an expected 12.4-12.6V (depends on air temp).

Once in a while (not always) voltage will drop to 11.8V until I rev the motor and then
it will return to the 12.4V range.

This bike has already blown a stator so the wiring has been gone over with new
spade connectors. And like I said the RR and stator are relatively new.

Is anyone else seeing this? Am I on the verge of getting another blown stator?
Click to expand...

Have you calibrated your bar mounted volt meter as all of your voltages sound low by about 0.5-0.6V?
 
Check and make sure the reg has a good ground to the battery. Check the voltage difference between the battery + terminal and the fuse block. It should be less than .5 volts any more indicates a bad connection
 
DimitriT said:
Usually the voltage drops to an expected 12.4-12.6V (depends on air temp).
Click to expand...


Really ? Does the air temp affect it that much ?

Im with Pos. I think your meter is reading a point where there is some volatge drop. Check the battery voltage at the + & - terminals with a good DVM.
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Check and make sure the reg has a good ground to the battery. Check the voltage difference between the battery + terminal and the fuse block. It should be less than .5 volts any more indicates a bad connection
Click to expand...

+1 :p

0.5V max at 5000 RPM when full charging should be occuring (0.25V is even better).

If you had 0.5v on both the (+) lead and the (-) lead and were charging at the nominal setpoint of 14.5V (at the regulator), your voltage at the battery would be 14.5-0.5-0.5=13.5V at the battery terminals

in contrast if you can get down to 0.25v you would be at:
14.5-0.25-0.25 = 14.0V at the battery terminals

Please note that those voltage drops are measured with all R/R and load connections closed (i.e. not and open circuit test)
 
posplayr said:
Have you calibrated your bar mounted volt meter as all of your voltages sound low by about 0.5-0.6V?
Click to expand...

Probably due to temperature. I have not calibrated it but I ride in 40-50 degree F weather. On days when its 70-80 F I normally get 13V+ when idling. Also I've set my idle a tad slower that most - about 1100 RPM indicated.
 
Last edited:
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Check and make sure the reg has a good ground to the battery. Check the voltage difference between the battery + terminal and the fuse block. It should be less than .5 volts any more indicates a bad connection
Click to expand...

I have done the ground wire to the battery terminal. That seemed to help a bit in stabilizing the voltage when I did it (raised the lower end and lowered the upper end). A GOOD THING. Great suggestion on the voltage difference check. Will do that.
 
i get the same readings as DimitriT. I need a better ground wire to the battery. The positive is connected to the fuse box (+) screw. Is this a good idea?
 
tas850g said:
i get the same readings as DimitriT. I need a better ground wire to the battery. The positive is connected to the fuse box (+) screw. Is this a good idea?
Click to expand...

it is ok if the described measurements check. There is no way to know if the fusebox is corroded (or any other connection) without performing the measurements.
 
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